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Under the sink, behind the fridge, in with the water pump etc is all good.

If you want to switch manually so to speak and use the amazon plugs inside a compartment that is fine. Attach a male plug to the main feed wire to the panel and a female connector to the other side that connects to the inlet. Attach a second female connector to a cord that plugs into the Bluetti.

What do you mean by just plug it in? Plug what to what with what? Here are a few transfer switches: https://www.bestconverter.com/30-Amp-Transfer-Switches_c_182.html Yes they are a bit bulky.

When you cut the wire from the inlet to the panel.... the proper thing to do is install a transfer switch. Add a second inlet to the Bluetti. Of course if the Bluetti can sit outside, a simple adapter from Amazon works fine. Bluetti goes direct to the existing inlet.

Have you adjusted the full charge setting in the BMS? Although if the battery reaches the selected full charge and presents the battery as 100% that actually seems correct even if the definition gets the battery to say 95% of absolute capacity. Still it is 100% of what will be utilized...

No absolute need for the monitor. If you want it or it seems to have value to you, as it does for many, then go for it. My Overkill BMS always seems very accurate.

12v x 1200 a/h is the same energy as 48v x 300 a/h. The 12v will drive the inverter just fine without the multitude of 12-48-12 complications. BTW my 12v 2000w Go Power runs the RV air just fine. Although is uses a lot of energy so usually I look for a place to plug in if I need cool air for...

12.45 per foot. How much you need? https://nassaunationalcable.com/products/2-3-w-grnd-nm-b-600v-stranded-black

State of charge is interesting. What is the actual voltage of each battery? Use a separate voltmeter. Have the batteries been through a charge/discharge cycle?

THHN will be very stiff. Will still take a lug and connect. Going to be an effort to get the wire bent to avoid stress on the component terminals.

I use a Meanwell NPB-450-12 as my generator is small and mostly charged with solar. There is a larger 1700 version. I don't think even 100 amps would hurt those batteries one bit.

My electrician just pulled #2 NM-B across my attic for a sub panel. It could take your arm off.

How will load dump work if the water is hot? Need two thermostat settings. May need a separate pre heat water heater to be left cold and only power with 120v. Existing can stay at 240. Space could be an issue.

Posts? There is a bar to bolt the lug to. I have an old discontinued Go Power 2000w sine wave inverter. But any brand will connect with 2/0. Quality 2/0 marine wire is good for at least 280 amps and a 2000w inverter will pull 170-190 amps as it approaches peak rated power. I installed 4/0...

2/0 feeds a 2000 watt inverter nicely on 12v. Probably go 4000w on 24 volts.

May as well get the 1288 for 30a rating

The bus bar gets more convenient as more circuits are added for other loads and charging. Eventually the terminals fill up. For that set up no bus is needed. Can be easily added in the future if needed.

Yes!

Put your volt meter across the fuse and see what it reads. Start at the wires and work your way in to direct on the fuse and see if anything jumps. This is to verify all connections are tight.

1/0 to #2 pin connector - amazon

I have 5' of 4/0 on a 2000w inverter and it is always cool. Even at 170 amps. Today I would go 2/0 unless the connection is more than 6'. #6 on the controller is fine. Still should have a fuse on the battery side of the wire...

If the battery is full and very little power is flowing the controller has already adjusted to restrict power to near zero. The solar power is not moving anywhere. As for disconnected.... my controller will not power up until the battery is connected. Manual is very specific to connect to...

Depends on the controller. Some have very specific warning. I believe the issue is at higher current flowing through an MPPT and the controller may not have time to adjust for a battery disconnect. Will it automatically always destroy the controller, NO. If the batteries are floating there...

Just for the shower? Consider a replacement shower valve where the numeric temperature can be selected.

Yes automotive cables are intended to run a start motor for 1 to 20 seconds. Not the continuous power of a GC. At least look for the #2 cables instead of the standard #4. Automotive equipment uses SAE wire with less copper than AWG. Otherwise get a crimper, lugs and some wire to do it right.

The existing alternator has limits. The belt drive has limits too. I would leave the chassis system as configured. A 24-48 converter may help but I would be concerned about depleting the chassis system and as said it is not really enough power to resolve much. I think the larger battery that...

They do! This is a FISKER not a FISKARS

Set the charge voltage to 14.8 and the minimum s/b 12.0 - 12.1 volts. Do this for 2 to 4 weeks then drop back to 14.4 volts. To equalize this would be closer to 15.5 volts for an hour. Have you checked the water level? Also that absorption time to hold charging voltage s/b 90 - 120 minutes...

Very cool and still Fisker could soon be an orphan. I am in close to the same boat with my I-Pace as Jaguar is stopping production of all cars for a new high end EV line up.

Much easier to cut 3000w of AC power than the 3000w DC feeding the inverter. Consider a voltage driven relay board to control a power relay with a 24vdc coil. Quick search: voltage controlled relay The load will be the relay coil. Relay 30amp vac contacts, 24vdc coil

OK so if the person does the wrong thing and back feeds the house I would think he has just powered up all the homes on his local transformer. Would not the generator overload? Ok maybe 100 led lights would work but then people start turning stuff on when a light comes on.

1000w is generally plenty for most home fridges. Most have 1500w - 2000w surge performance when needed. Don't skimp on the DC connection that may limit the surge performance. I have and recommend Go Power inverters but any of the above are good too. Get sine wave.

For a small but sensitive load like this sometimes it is easier to run from inverter full time. Let the generator or utility power charge the battery while inverting. No switching. Especially frustrating with a satellite box that has to rescan for channels for 10 minutes to restart a movie.

Easy to add later if an issue develops. Not a permanent skip feature on a large component.

The issue with out of balance is that a battery can shut down for over/under volt protection. An unattended system may create other problems if it shuts power off unexpectedly. When that deep freezer is unknowingly off line for a week it will be a mess. This is the type of thinking that needs...