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No apologies necessary, it is your thread. Looks like you have to tap holes into a base plate for the long bolts that go through the top holes in the middle. Here’s a German guy testing a similar single pole model. You can turn on CC and auto-translate.

Ordered. They are going to be baffled by the uptick in sales. This forum has financial clout! :)

Maybe if you don’t cut open the cable, the arcing will stay inside. Marketing people, sheesh.

Great deal! But the arcing conductors make me nervous! :)

Right, two different things. However, I put stainless bolts into galvanized unistrut nuts and had terrible galling. Fortunately, there was some anti-seize goop in the garage,

I’m using this one for my Positive Busbar. I would have gotten Lynx if I had known about them.

I see no specifications in the manual other than what I extracted below. https://manuals.plus/joyvolt/jv1500-portable-outdoor-power-supply-manual Solar Charging Input: 600W Max.

Based on that chart, do you consider galvanized steel to be steel or zinc? Because I definitely mix stainless and galvanized all over the place. Aluminum I know better, and put tape and nylon washers to prevent corrosion.

I thought I was being smart getting all stainless hardware for my unistrut to panel connections. I was cranking those bolts way too fast and with too much torque,and had to cut three of the bolts out when they seized. I was blaming McMaster Carr for crappy hardware, until I found out I was the...

Yes, get the biggest amperage rating you can find in a convenient size, preferably double the current you expect. It will keep the heat down at higher current levels.

So here’s my issue with putting a voltage rating on a hunk of metal, plastic, and hardware: All that really matters is that the insulation can withstand the voltage without arcing. I seriously doubt a 48v-rated busbar will fail at 56v, or even 70v. But if you want to do it by the book, get the...

https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-distribution-systems/busbars https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Energy-Busbars-Connections-Terminals/dp/B08TRRXH44

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/120v-on-the-pv-line-discussion-of-wills-video.55435/ https://diysolarforum.com/threads/120v-on-the-pv-line-discussion-of-wills-video.55435/post-714211 https://diysolarforum.com/threads/not-grounding-panels.76852/...

You misspelled Victron!

Maybe double conversion is the way to go. The inverters are always providing nice clean power from batteries. The horrible grid gets connected to chargeverters to keep the battery bank filled. Not cheap, but he would have the best power in town all the time.

250 ft, It is grounded back to the panel.

The 58V-rated ones are not bad, they meet the specifications Littelfuse or Victron publish. I’m looking for extra protection, and willing to spend money for additional peace of mind. The 70V rated fuses give me that. The question isn’t will they work, because they will. The question is, will...

Honestly, I had 5 of the 58V-rated ones (clear package) and I thought they were fine, until this House Burned Down thread. The OP appeared to have them, so I upgraded to the 70v MEGA. 2.5 kA AIC at 70v (littelfuse sf51) is better than 1 kA AIC at 58v (littelfuse bf2) I would never use MEGA for...

I’ve got multiple 46’’ cast aluminum screws in the ground supporting 2” galvanized pipe for my ground mounts. 9 total! You can’t get more grounded than that. And they are all bonded together locally with 6 AWG. And yet, I sleep just fine at night. I just don’t worry that my 8 AWG EGC wire in...

Did you have problems with galling when tightening those stainless bolts? I had a painful experience with that, and had to put some messy anti-galling stuff on the threads

Some black neoprene labeled “anti-static” or “ESD protective” are definitely conductive (but probably about 1 MegOhm)

did you consider these instead? 70v rating https://www.currentconnected.com/product/littelfuse-mega-fuse-60a-to-300a-for-12v-24v-48v-systems/

I’m pretty sure that’s the case, because the Quattro firmware is responsible for low-voltage cut-off and restart features directly, If you have battery comms enabled, and a Cerbo GX with DVCC with shared voltage sense, maybe, but i doubt it, Maybe @sunshine_eggo for this one

If you set cutoff at 48V, and restart at 51.6V, that’s roughly 10% of your battery capacity that is available to run the A/C until it shuts down again, assuming no incoming solar energy. So if you have three SOK 48V server batteries (I don’t know how many you have), you’ve got about 15 kWh when...

The PV voltage certainly shoots up at daybreak, but not the battery voltage, there isn’t enough power yet. Apologies if I’m misinterpreting your intentions.

My understanding from VEConfigure Inverter settings is that you set the voltage to restart inverting again, and it should be at least 1 volt higher than the 48V cutoff to avoid bouncing off and on. Here is a 12V screen, you’ll have to translate up to 48V So DC input low shutdown is 48V for...

I do not regret installing subpanels with generator interlocks, at least the HOM breakers are UL listed.

Mine are in the same box. I think your idea is solid. The busbars need insulated standoffs from the metal, obviously, I also like the neat workmanship in your photo, great job. And your drawing wasn’t half bad either! Do you plan to add other solar later? if so, plan accordingly in the DC box...

I have a big rolling 19” rack with inverters and mppts, and busbars. I have a separate 19” rack with batteries. The two are connected by about 6 feet of 4/0 Class K welding wire (+,-) and a chassis ground 2/0. As my setup is “temporary”, because it can roll right out the door, conduit for the...

I like my welding wire hanging free, the way nature intended. Though conduit would make it neat and tidy.

Conduit ampacity is derated, which makes sense, but is that with multiple conductors? If you put a single welding wire in a 1” conduit, does the derating apply? Do conduit fill rules apply, meaning 1.5” conduit is necessary for a single conductor? Only if over 24” maximum nipple length?

I’ve never tried to put my Class K Welding Cable into conduit. Are people successfully doing that? Edit: Clarified Class K, wasn’t trying to make a joke. :)

No, thanks! But would you buy from shunts.com again? I’m looking for reliable no-fuss vendors.

I’d use copper ferrules, but i would also thermally image the connections while running like 200A through it to be sure. https://www.amazon.com/XL-Uninsulated-Wire-Ferrules-Copper/dp/B0B7YTVTHP Every milliohm counts…. It’s a round hole, so either use a hex crimp or no crimp, just torque the...

Make sure the lengths of DC wire from the busbars to inverters are the same length to balance the DC current. I also would connect the inverter lugs to be the same distance from the battery feed on the busbars, rather than having the battery at the end. Inv1+ Batt+ Inv2+