diy solar

diy solar

First Solar System for my in progress Promaster. I'd love some feedback!

Yea, matching voltage of subsystems:

Schematic says 12V battery and inverter link says 24V.
 
Yea, matching voltage of subsystems:

Schematic says 12V battery and inverter link says 24V.
Oh, I may have sent the wrong link, I'm gonna double check my physical inverter in case, though. I'm pretty sure I ordered the 12v.
 
So besides the BMS, what else would you say is bottlenecking my system?
Also, if you have reccomendations for BMSs I'm all ears.
Just the main fuse and the bms.
You could go a bit larger on the main wire and inverter wire as well.
I'm not a fan of Daly but you should look for a Daly 4s smart bms rated for 500 amps.
 
Just the main fuse and the bms.
You could go a bit larger on the main wire and inverter wire as well.
I'm not a fan of Daly but you should look for a Daly 4s smart bms rated for 500 amps.
I can step up to 4/0 if that helps. I'll get on the lookout for a Daly 4s as well. Thanks for the help!
 
Alternately you could take the bms out of the inverter/charger current path.
Use the bms to remote control the inverter/charger.
I'm not sure if that inverter/charger supports it but it makes a sweet solution.
 
Oh and since this is a mobile application you should be using a ul-458 listed or at least compliant inverter/charger.
This one may be compliant but you should check.
 
1500W @ 12V is 125A. Something higher to cover inefficiency and running off a low battery, but 200A should be sufficient for fuse.
Size fuse for continuous current. Size wire at least as large as the fuse (2/0 awg in this case), maybe larger for surge current and voltage drop. If wire is very short (1 or 2 feet) should need to be oversize.
Size BMS for surge current (375A)

"ul-458"
If not, how about just mounting an outlet with neutral wired to ground, nothing else? Plug the power cord into this outlet when not on shore power.
(I suppose we could fine some degenerate case where somebody gets electrocuted the moment you unplug from shore power?)
 
1500W @ 12V is 125A. Something higher to cover inefficiency and running off a low battery, but 200A should be sufficient for fuse.
If that unit can do 4500 watts for 20 seconds it can likely do 3000 watts long enough to blow your fuse.
300 amps is the limit for mrbf fuses and that high amp fuseblock is probably also limited to 300 amps.
I guess that all depends on the fuse. I kind of like spending money.


This chart only has a single line, not a min/max as I'd like to see. Looks like 200A class T would go 15 minutes at 300A.

If your wire is fat enough, you can use a larger fuse.
 
I think the site said something like 500 amps, but I'm not too keen on testing that out.
 
Overall, I'm not trying to squeeze every ounce of performance out of all the components, I just want something that can provide me enough power for my needs without catching my whole van on fire.
All my appliances running at the same time shouldn't exceed 150amps, and I'm ok with not running the PC and Pressure cooker at the same time to stay under 120a. Would I run into any issues by still using the 120a BMS while I look for a Daly 500a?
 
So besides the BMS, what else would you say is bottlenecking my system?
Also, if you have reccomendations for BMSs I'm all ears.
There is something I not fully understand - do you have a 12V battery bank or 24V? The battery configuration is not stated (or I did not catch it) but it looks like they are connected parallel. However the inverter you linked is 24V - 110V.
Going 24V would have lots of lots of advantages.
- Half the currents from the batteries for current consumers or you could power double the consumption with the components you'd have to buy now for your 12V system.
- Expandability. The charge controller could handle 2x the panels on 24V (up to 1kW) because the same charging current would enable it (12V - 520W, 24V - 1040W). A 840W system could power a typical domestic fridge for you besides all else you listed. If you build your system to 24V you could just add panels later but if you build it to 12W now you are stuck with that for quite some time.
It's not that I recommend to add panels now. But most people like to be able to add panels because panels are not expensive. So if you have a 24V system and you realize you need more power you could just hook up 1-2 more panels and you are there.
 
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