ShunBin Battery Packs: 12V/24V 100AH and up ! A Complete RIP-OFF ! AVOID

[SolarRat]

E). Delete review, get refund. Make sure it clears the bank. Repost review.

 

[Steve_S]

Steve, I share your distaste for being extorted into deleting a review of these batteries that alerted others to ShunBin's fraudulent advertising.

Unfortunately, I was outside of Amazon's refund window when we became aware of the 174Ah batteries being used. Even still, I requested a full refund from ShunBin, which they refused.

Shortly thereafter, ShunBin became aware of my Amazon review which showcased their deception, and asked that I remove it, in exchange for a very small refund. I informed them that they had shorted me 10% of the advertised battery capacity, so any refund would have to be at least that amount... and that the refund would have to be received BEFORE my review was removed, as once the review is altered, it is permanent, and I've lost my bargaining chip.

Within a day, my account was credited to the tune of $456.82 US, for the two 400Ah batteries. And so, I kept my word... removing my review.

I was then shocked to find an email from Amazon asking that I review the batteries for them! (Apparently, my first review was for but one of the two batteries purchased, and Amazon wanted the second battery reviewed)

This was the best of both worlds... I was able to keep my word by removing the review that accused ShunBin of engaging in fraudulent and deceptive trade practices, while also affording me the opportunity to insure that other shoppers might go into the transaction fully informed.

My new review reads:

The pride of workmanship is readily apparent in the stainless steel case that houses these LifePO4 batteries. All wiring and fasteners are glued in place within. My only concern was the 174Ah printing on each cell, rather than the 200Ah that each cell should have been, to provide the 400Ah that the two batteries that I purchased should be comprised of.

Sadly I did not see that review and had I seen it, I would have built my own pack OR bought a couple of the BYD or Samsung Packs which are available.... After all of this, it actually would have cost me the same IF I had built a fresh pack from scratch but without lingering doubts.

 

[Steve_S]

E). Delete review, get refund. Make sure it clears the bank. Repost review.

Or post a link in the review to THIS thread... we shall see what pops in the next couple of days.

 

[Brain]

Or post a link in the review to THIS thread... we shall see what pops in the next couple of days.

OK i've been following along here and have to chime in, Steve_S a very BIG thank you for sharing your experience with "shit bin" and their dubious practices but Sir i believe you have suffered enough so squeeze those bastards for every dime you can get outta them to recover some of your hard earned money.

 

[Steve_S]

Received a message from Willian Chen @ Shunbin Shenzen Corporate via Alibaba mail, it IS the same company and again he asked I remove this thread & change the reviews. NEITHER IS HAPPENING ! I will NOT participate in supporting a fraud after the fact, sorry but I look out for my Fellow Human Beings and do not want to see anyone else get scammed.

 

[Ped]

Just do it on amazon and get your money. Then repost it with refund and post renoval info. like solar rat said. Doesnt need to be this hard.

 

[Stiffmeister]

I've been camping out in my trailer for a few days now. Cranking up toons, lights on, using coffee pot....I just ordered three more 500 ah (or less, whatever) batteries. Not doing Battleborn. Maybe on my next solar setup (I have two properties in Cabo) I will try something different. So that's $8k in these batteries.

 

[Ped]

Can I wash your windows?

 

[Steve_S]

I've been camping out in my trailer for a few days now. Cranking up toons, lights on, using coffee pot....I just ordered three more 500 ah (or less, whatever) batteries. Not doing Battleborn. Maybe on my next solar setup (I have two properties in Cabo) I will try something different. So that's $8k in these batteries.

Your a brave soul... considering they sold me a 400AH pack but it has 174AH cells as opposed to 200AH so I got 348AH (gross - maybe) but if I bought three packs would they be the same ? would they charge / discharge the same ? What mix of cells are in the pack and do they match up (most unlikely) Remember I discovered Three Different types of Cells in my single pack ! Mix'n Match !

All parts are in finally, just have to drill the holes into the custom busbars and I'll be redoing the pack and taking photo's to post here.

FYI: After checking these updated deals here https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/raw-lifepo4-deals-page.html and crunching the numbers, could have built the same pack for equal money with "Known Good Parts" and much less hassle an angst.

 

[Donald Siegel]

What testing?

If you want to bet your money on an unknown china cell, go for it. I've been buying from China for decades and have been screwed more times than I care to admit, but at least it was mostly cheap stuff and I was expecting it (I was lubed up). I've bought many many li-ion 18650 cells from unknown suppliers in China and not a single one tested anywhere near specs. Some were laughably bad. Some started out ok but lost 75% of their capacity in a year. BUT, my Samsungs, Sonys, Panasonic's, LGs and Sanyos are mostly all still working great after a decade of use. You DO sometimes get what you pay for, especially with battery brands!

I'm trying to save naive people from possibly making a huge financial mistake. If they still want to chance it that's up to them. I hope they are the real deal, but the odds are less than 50/50. Just know the odds before playing the game....someone has to remind people here that... Being a fanboy helps no one. I saw just one test of these mystery batteries on here and they failed miserably (the real manufacturer said his cells were meant for the trash heap). I don't consider "I got them and they are great!" from a fanboy an actual test.

Time will tell and we will see. If you've got the cash to try them, great, go for it!...just don't gamble the kid's college fund.

We used to scoff at "Made in Japan" equating it with cheap stuff until it became a symbol of quality. You need to know a manufacturers reputation prior to buying if that's possible but the facts are the highest quality parts, batteries, electronic components and solar panels are mostly made in China. The fact is the cheap new or used lifepo4 cells made in China usually measure out to spec and work well. Based on Will's latest teardown you may have to build your own battery to be sure your wire gauge and BMS and its connections are good but cheap cells themselves from China are preforming pretty well in most of Will's testing.

 

[gnubie]

Japan was destroyed and effectively rebuilt as a result of WW2. By the 80s Japan had lifted itself out of junk grade products, hence we have that memorable line from Back To the Future. In a similar time frame China, whilst it is capable of producing reasonable quality, seems to far prefer to continue pumping out junk. You really have to be careful purchasing anything that has been made in China at this point.

 

[Ped]

By the early to mid 60's japans motorcycles were keeping up and beating the worlds best in GP and TT.

 

[Steve_S]

Reminder to all participants, let's make every effort to stay on track & on topic.
Excursions into recent history of the 1960's & 70's "Jap Crap / Made in JA Pan" and the 80's to 90's Korean Krap, which gave way to Made in China junk.... is just recycling a bunch of feldercarb which is totally worthless. Same ol "stuff" that get's regurgitated with the country name updated every decade or so to go along with it...

PROGRESS UPDATE:
- Well the bits are here and the rebuild is underway. Quite a good thing and taking it slow and steady has proven a worthwhile method...
- The new bus bars are ready to go (thank goodness for a drill press), the BMS Terminal ends are done (damn the wires are so thin !)
- After having some time to ponder, I decided to replace the main (-) & (+) wires going from the cells to the terminals with 2/0 Excellene Fine Copper welding wire because what was used in there by ShunBin was barely adequate. The (-) wire was a 1 gauge CCA going from the BMS board to the (-) Terminal in the case, the (+) was 2 copper, 8 ga (possibly 10ga) wires with a funky plastic coating & then wrapped together, no markings on any wires. 2/0 is overkill some might say but if your pulling full loads too thin become bad quickly.
- The 2/0 wires are made and the non-metallic covers are cleaned off, of hot glue & white goop....
- The Stainless Steel case now has holes drilled in and grommets installed for the BMS wiring harness & temp sensors.
* The Stainless is high quality stuff too, tape the areas to drill (keep the drill from wandering) and use HSS bits with a bit of cutting oil.
- !! a Bug in the soup !! as previously noted there is a mix of cells with 3 oddballs... the spacing of the holes is off my almost 2mm compared to the rest, luckily as I used 1/4" thick x 1-1/2" wide 110 copper stock, I can drill the differences out to line everything up.

The LFP Pack Layout remains the same for a 24V/400 AH (348Ah in reality) and here is a diagram with the busbars and points for the BMS to attach. The main BMS is to be attached to the front exterior of the case (right side of image) with velcro & 2-way tape while the remote will be free but attachable to a velcro holder on the wall.

 

[SolarRat]

We used to scoff at "Made in Japan" equating it with cheap stuff until it became a symbol of quality. You need to know a manufacturers reputation prior to buying if that's possible but the facts are the highest quality parts, batteries, electronic components and solar panels are mostly made in China. The fact is the cheap new or used lifepo4 cells made in China usually measure out to spec and work well. Based on Will's latest teardown you may have to build your own battery to be sure your wire gauge and BMS and its connections are good but cheap cells themselves from China are preforming pretty well in most of Will's testing.

I agree 100% with most of what you said. China makes some top notch electronics these days...BUT there is no regulation. For every top notch company there are 100 rip-off companies that produce nothing but dog crap. Japan is well regulated...most electronics from Japan are top quality. Big difference. China will get there someday, maybe, but not today or tomorrow.

As for Will's testing, they are brand new batteries! I don't judge something that should last 10+ years by how it works on the first day, or even the first couple years.

 

[Stiffmeister]

I ordered three more 500 ah. They arrived in a week if you can believe that. Read an Amazon review where the guy was pulling 133 amps out of a 12v and didn't have problems. So four in series (48v) pulling 100 amps (4800 w) should theoretically be fine right? Only my home stereo would hit those numbers.

 

[Steve_S]

I would really love to know how they come up with a 500AH 12V pack. What did they put inside to come up with that, certainly not made of 4 cells. Amazing how someone gamble on a box of mystery parts and not knowing what you are getting.

 

[Steve_S]

REBUILD UPDATE - DONE !

OK, well who said things are going to be easy ? NOT when Murphy's laws are applied. Of course that bloody bugger showed his laws.

• With the new Bus Bars (1/4" thick) the original brass M6 screws were too short for comfort. So got new M6-12 Stainless Steel bolts and washers.
• Wanted to use 2/0 Cable Internally. No way it would fit in the case. Stepped down to 1/0 and damned close but not enough (2mm grrr) Finally got 1 Gauge Excelene fine Welding cable in there and "squeak tight"
• The BMS leads were 2cm too short to reach the farthest cells, so I had to extend the leads and do some mods for that. Important as the BMS control unit sits external to the case on the front, see photo's below.
• I managed to keep the original LED display for the voltage, handy for a quick glance view but it's off by 0.2V. Go Figure !
• Had one heck of a time getting Quality Lugs (380km's driven to get them) as I needed 2, 1GA with 1/4" holes (attach to busbar post) and then 2 1GA with 5/16 holes for the terminal post. I got other stuff too, figured if I have to travel that distance better make it worthwhile, so I stocked up on other goodies.
• I also decided that instead of separating all the cells that I would keep them together as they are tightly strapped together and I cannot replicate that

Nota Bene on internal cable: I decided to upgrade the 4GA CCA (which was also too short without their provided BMS board) because I felt that "blend" and the amount of amperage is simply too risky to bet on. The Negative actually had two short pieces of questionable coarse wire which was terribly crimped (loose, pulled apart by hand easily !). While 1 Gauge Wire is not optimal, I decided to compensate by using some very fine copper Excelene Welding cable which can certainly handle what I will pull from the pack. FYI. Loose crimps = dangerous !

The Photos

Cells reassembled with new harness & 1GA Excelene Welding Cable (8s2p long format)


Cells extracted from case, Top View


Cells extracted from case, Side View


The Case internally is fully lined where tha cells go to prevent any physical contact.


TOP is the Aluminium Bus Bar that was used by ShunBin (4mm thick by 30mm wide)
Bottom is the 110 Copper I used (6.36mm thick by 38.1mm wide)


Case Front ready for control module, showing the original LED VDC display. Cell Harness & Temp sensor wires shown.


Chargery Installed and running (doing a storage balance)
NOTE: LIPO is the default battery type, change to LiFe as soon as installed, cell balancing is OFF by default.


The Chargery BMS8T Kit below

 

[Stupid Monkey]

so the chargery kit is a low amp BMS but powers massive switches for the 600A loads then, not through itself. Neat solution especially to heat

 

[grizzzman]

Great job. Cant wait for my chargery to show up.

 

[Steve_S]

One thing to note especially, the Shunt provided by Chargery is one of the fairly cheap ones and has no mounting / backing. I'm going to use a Deltec 500A/50mv Shunt instead, which is a far better solid brass unit. Ebay link below but check around with solar suppliers etc.

Ironically, I have the identical already in my E-Panel attached to the Classic-200 but that is connected to the WizBang Jr. interface which is between the FLA bank & LFP pack. One option is to reprogram it for the LFP and run a long lead (6' or so, might not be so good) to also connect to the BMS so it can do it's thing and have a separate shunt for the FLA bank with an independent monitor. But then that kinda messes up when I get more LFP and another Chargery BMS or two with their own relays etc... more pondering to do...

Riedon 500A 50MV DC Shunt for Current Monitoring Meter for Mindnite Solar Bogart | eBay

Deltec SHUNT 500A/50MV What is a shunt? A shunt is a very small, accurately-known, low resistance resistor used to measure current. Meters & Battery Monitors use shunts to measure amps and amp-hours. The shunt is placed in series with the load so that it can measure the current flowing through...

www.ebay.com