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Class C RV Upgrade

If an Automatic Transfer Switch is already in place, then the Quattro may be overkill and a Multiplus would work just as well.
 
If an Automatic Transfer Switch is already in place, then the Quattro may be overkill and a Multiplus would work just as well.
Will the discrete automatic transfer switch switch the neutral/ground bond safely?
 
Will the discrete automatic transfer switch switch the neutral/ground bond safely?

Beats me. My ATS was installed at the factory. I've never had any issues with it. But then again, I'm not sure that I would know if there was an issue in the first place unless something produced smoke. My understanding is that bonding issues are seen with portable generators. The built-in on-board generators are wired to avoid that issue. But that's a big assumption.
 
Beats me. My ATS was installed at the factory. I've never had any issues with it. But then again, I'm not sure that I would know if there was an issue in the first place unless something produced smoke. My understanding is that bonding issues are seen with portable generators. The built-in on-board generators are wired to avoid that issue. But that's a big assumption.
The netural/ground bond issue...
Netural and ground must be bonded in 1 and only 1 place.
When attached to shore power the bond is upstream of the pedestal and beyond your control.
When not attached to shore power the bond is within your domain.

The main reason is too provide a low impedance path to trip over current protection to clear fault conditions.
 
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The only thing I've heard is that you know there is a bonding/ground problem with the trailer if you touch a metal surface and get buzzed. I'm not rubbing up against every metal surface in my trailer, but I've done enough work on various surfaces to know that I'm not feeling any current.
 
The only thing I've heard is that you know there is a bonding/ground problem with the trailer if you touch a metal surface and get buzzed. I'm not rubbing up against every metal surface in my trailer, but I've done enough work on various surfaces to know that I'm not feeling any current.
I've felt that tingle.
I've also nearly bitten my own tongue off.
 

It's essentially a constant voltage power supply. 13.8V. A touch too high for LFP.
I got one of those things as well. But I think mine is floating a 13.6V

Where do I find the range for LFP? Random question will it still charge with a constant voltage source? Much lower then possible I would assume.
 
LFP can be floated at 3.4V/13.6V and will charge to about 95% SoC.
that would be ideal for an RV. Finally a usecase for those "cheap" single stage Converter.

I wouldn't want to charge to 100% anyhow. Lets assume - the charger stays at this voltage forever - I mean like an RV it's plugged in.
Any other issue you can see when the LFP stays at this voltage?
 
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