Stainless steel is a very poor conductor. No need to worry about the grub screw making contact with the threads in the cells terminals as far as carrying current. You could use plastic grub screws and it would't matter. The current is carried through the busbars.I could use threadlock to the extent it doesn't affect the battery thread to screw current contact area.
I probably won't use a torque wrench on the flange nut, just "prett damned tight" and some threadlock and call it good. 64 times . . .
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McMasterCarrknow and trust to purchase more than qty
I literally do not understand any of your past post. There must be some inferences, but they are lost on me, and this isn't my main drinkin night.
You switched to fastner conductivity when you say it isn't important, you switched to inch/lbs from Nm, and you're doing something thay isn't the norm, but not referencing the norm . . . screw it, back to drinkin.
I hope everyone is aware we are talking about the torque applied to the nut if using grub screws and nuts and that's what is being discussed..Dont torque the screw. Just run it all the way to the bottom and back off a quarter turn for safety.
I have read bicycle torque wrenches are good for this application. However most come with only one torque setting.But you might not like the price.
That's what I have... a beam torque wrench. It's big and bulky but works.Presa 1/4" drive torque wrench at Lowes.com works perfectly. 0-9 Nm. 0-80 in-lbs
Sorry not digital and no click. $25 shipped to local store. (US)
Yes.
I used 6mm all-thread stainless steel rod cut to the correct length and then flat washer, lock washer, and a nut. That way you utilize all the threads on the cell; loctite them in. The current is passed through the flats on the terminal.I dunno bro, I'm getting a bad oxidation / corrosion / reaction / petina vibe there.
I'm sticking w the SS and calling it good without smearing that goo on it.
sorry but something like that is probably not accurate enough at the lower end to want to use on our batteries. remember a beam type torque wrench is only truly accurate in the middle of its range, so the 1st quarter 0-20 the range we are concerned with is probably 5-10% out of spec. as well as the last quarter of the range. better to get one with a smaller range that places the actual torque you want in the middle of the range for accuracy.Presa 1/4" drive torque wrench at Lowes.com works perfectly. 0-9 Nm. 0-80 in-lbs
Sorry not digital and no click. $25 shipped to local store. (US)
So 4 Nm in the scale of 0-9 is not close enough to the middle?sorry but something like that is probably not accurate enough at the lower end to want to use on our batteries. remember a beam type torque wrench is only truly accurate in the middle of its range, so the 1st quarter 0-20 the range we are concerned with is probably 5-10% out of spec. as well as the last quarter of the range. better to get one with a smaller range that places the actual torque you want in the middle of the range for accuracy.