Step 10: Install The Fasteners
Using a drill with a hex head bit, install the hex head screw. Press down firmly on the drill so that the tip of the screw quickly pierces the EPDM and goes into the roof decking and then the truss. Do not over tighten the screw. This is especially important for those screws that won't be going into the truss. I used two screws per bracket even though only one was going all the way into the truss. Make sure the head of the screw is flush with the bracket.
Installing the fasteners will cause the Butyl Tape to squeeze out a bit. That's normal.
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If you don't know which way your roof is going to face, then straight up is preferred. I am following a guy who put panels all over his roof, but also put one flat on the side for December sun.Why do you want the rails at the same height? Are you trying to get the panels mounted so they are all flat and pointing the same direction (up)?
I have some thoughts on this, but I want to understand your goal before saying anything.
nothing extreme...I bet not even an inch. The other advantage of the rail system is I can bring all the panels up to the height of the skylights. I don't want to raise them to vent or AC height, but anything they are as high as won't create a shadow.If your roof has a significant arch, like on an AirStream, you could put panels on opposite sides in parallel. That way, one side catches the morning sun and the other side catches the afternoon sun. If you're parked east/west then it's all good and they all produce equally.
I see the original OSB was totally rotted out, most likely a leak caused that. Also it indicates shoddy construction by the manufacturer.
I am pretty sure that is how mine is...rubber on bottom, front cap on top.Plenty of shoddy construction in my trailer. I put a new sheet of fiberglass on the front wall today. The morons at the factory installed the fiberglass on top of the EPDM where they meet on the roof. That way, when the molding holding the joined surfaces down to the substrate fails, the water goes right into the trailer instead of staying outside on the fiberglass.
I am pretty sure that is how mine is...rubber on bottom, front cap on top.
When I get my TT home, I took this picture so I could start planning solar install. Pardon the stains, etc. on the roof as I purchased the TT the trailer home and had just gotten it back home from the dealer 750 miles away. BTW, I still haven't used the TT or washed the roof, but it is a 9 year old TT and I doubt they ever touched the roof.Your molding, butyl tape and sealant had better be top notch then. I'm thinking that every piece of aluminum molding should come off every five years for cleanup, new butyl tape and new sealant. As a test, take out a random fastener. If the shaft of the fastener is rusted anywhere, then you have a leak and the molding needs to be redone. None of the OEM fasteners on my trailer were stainless steel.
The joints were all gone over by the dealer (Gander) in October when I bought it.
Several use that or similar products found at the big box. Are you mounting on a flat surface or a curved roof you will be compensating for?Going to mount mine with green anodized strut channel from Grainger.