Complete solar novice, out to sea.

[Tamara Mcneely]

A separate property, very long story.

 

[John Frum]

Here is what I would do if I was you.

First buy any of these things that you don't already have.

fire extinguisher(rated for electrical fires)
non contact voltage tester(chicken stick)
gfci outlet tester
wago lever nuts 4xx series and 6xx series
tt30 socket


Get the inverter powered up and test it as I described earlier in this thread.
If and only if it passes then...

1. Turn off all the ac breakers
2. wire up a tt-30 receptacle with a some 10/2 wire to the inverter.
3. test the ac circuits

turn on the master breaker and then test one circuit at a time.​

4. test the dc circuits

one at a time​

​

Report back.
With the exception of the ac panel the electrical on this trailer looks pretty gnarly.

Alternate to step 2.
You could just remove the 10/2 wire that feeds the master breaker and connect the inverter with a chunk of 10/2 wire.
That would save you having to source a tt-30 receptacle.

 

[John Frum]

Is the slide out?
Is there a way to extend/retract the slide manually?
I have a faint recollection that some of them can be activated manually with an impact driver or similar.

 

[John Frum]

Just to be clear, when you do the test the only connection between the trailer and the inverter should be ac.
The batteries that power the inverter should only be connected to the inverter.
This is to avoid a power loop.

 

[Tamara Mcneely]

You could just remove the 10/2 wire that feeds the master breaker and connect the inverter with a chunk of 10/2 wire.
That would save you having to source a tt-30 receptacle.

so I would be using the lead acid battery test then power the inverter which will connect to the master breaker, which in turn will power all ac/outlets etc etc. Probably a stupid question, but why doesn’t Will have a breaker box in his explanation?

 

[Tamara Mcneely]

Is the slide out?
Is there a way to extend/retract the slide manually?

It is ? I used the lead acid

 

[John Frum]

so I would be using the lead acid battery test then power the inverter which will connect to the master breaker, which in turn will power all ac/outlets etc etc. Probably a stupid question, but why doesn’t Will have a breaker box in his explanation?

Its my policy not to speculate about @Will Prowse

Sure use the lead acid batteries if that is easy but they should not be connected to the trailer's dc domain.

 

[John Frum]

It is ? I used the lead acid

I asked if there is a manual way to activate the slide just in case it got stuck and/or the electrics fail when you test that circuit.

 

[Tamara Mcneely]

connected to the trailer's dc domain

The battery will connect directly to the inverter, which via 10/2 will connect to the master breaker.

 

[John Frum]

The battery will connect directly to the inverter, which via 10/2 will connect to the master breaker.

The battery will connect directly and exclusively to the inverter.
With a fuse though.
I feel its important to be clear here.

 

[Tamara Mcneely]

The battery will connect directly and exclusively to the inverter.
With a fuse though.
I feel its important to be clear here.

I hear you loud and clear, yes, the battery will only be connected to the inverter, and only once the inverter is tested, I appreciate the caution ??

 

[John Frum]

That goes to the batteries.

That doesn't look right.
It appears to be a ~3 wires inside a second layer of insulation.
That usually means its for alternating current.
Is this perhaps going off to a utility/power shed?

 

[Tamara Mcneely]

That doesn't look right.
It appears to be a ~3 wires inside a second layer of insulation.
That usually means its for alternating current.
Is this perhaps going off to a utility/power shed?

You‘re right, sorry it’s not the batteries. I don’t have time to check today, but the more I look at all this unnecessary clutter, the more I am concerned about integrating into it. For my own peace of mind, as well as my limited understanding, I would love to just keep it as simple as possible, along with using as little of the existing lines as possible. I don‘t mind buying a quality inverter and quality lines if it increases safety and removes any unnecessary confusion.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

Those 4x4 junction box pics- at least on my phone - are confusing. It ‘looks’ like I’d expect it to be towing / running light wires, but the wiring looks like power supply and no blue/brakes. The ‘shunts’ you mentioned look like fuses to me, and if those are supply wires to an inverter they’re way too small.

One step at a time… you may well indeed be starting all fresh/new but I think where it currently starts and ends isn’t apparent yet. It looks like a mess mainly because there’s so many unknowns. The fuses/breakers at least indicate that someone had that much awareness.

 

[John Frum]

Those 4x4 junction box pics- at least on my phone - are confusing. It ‘looks’ like I’d expect it to be towing / running light wires, but the wiring looks like power supply and no blue/brakes. The ‘shunts’ you mentioned look like fuses to me, and if those are supply wires to an inverter they’re way too small.

One step at a time… you may well indeed be starting all fresh/new but I think where it currently starts and ends isn’t apparent yet. It looks like a mess mainly because there’s so many unknowns. The fuses/breakers at least indicate that someone had that much awareness.

Appreciate your input.

My working hypothesis, as crazy as it sounds is...
The dc distribution box and the 4 x 4 junction box are connected by a 6 awg white "trunk" wire.
The positive branches originate in the dc distro box but the negative branches terminate in the junction box which is "trunked" back to the negative negative busbar in the dc distro box.

My vision is pretty lousy but I think that is what I think I am seeing.

 

[Tamara Mcneely]

I appreciate your input! ? What would they be trying to achieve by altering the campers wires in that manner?

 

[John Frum]

I appreciate your input! ? What would they be trying to achieve by altering the campers wires in that manner?

Wild guess is some of the wiring was damaged so repairs were made.
Going under the trailer was easier than going through.
Please post pictures of the battery compartment.
I really feel like I've not got the whole picture yet.
We may have to resort to tracing wires.

How are you planning to work on top of a mountain without power to get this trailer electrical working?

 

[DerpsyDoodler]

I appreciate your input! ? What would they be trying to achieve by altering the campers wires in that manner?

Since this is all a big confusing mess, I would like to suggest getting some labels, a magic marker, pencil and paper, then:

sit down and start drawing a diagram of all the existing wiring for the boxes, shore inlet, inverter, converter, and distribution panels.

You will have to trace down all the wiring to do so, and you can label it while you're doing this.

Until you have a diagram of your existing circuits, you're shooting in the dark potentially playing russian roulette with electricity. Even with all the precaution. You need to start from a known good point, that preferably being to know your existing circuitry.

This is NOT something you want to be guessing at.

 

[Tamara Mcneely]

This is NOT something you want to be guessing at.

Agreed, although if this job requires me to do complex wiring diagrams, we‘re already increasing the danger, and I’m serious, I don’t feel comfortable accurately mapping it out, especially considering the camper is already electrically fubar. Here are the images. You’re right, the black cable was NOT running to the batteries, but to the truck. I’m thinking that they switched from getting shore power from the normal line to the vehicle or other source, would I be right in assuming that? I’m starting to think that I should get someone in to look at it. I was hoping I could possibly start from the AC fuse box and distribution box assuming that all the outlets and 12v appliances were in working order then remove everything from the battery side out of the equation, but maybe that’s what they were doing, except powering from the vehicle end for whatever reason. Either way, I’m very appreciative of your efforts, but you are absolutely right, this is not something I want to be guessing at.

 

[John Frum]

<snip>especially considering the camper is already electrically fubar.

When did we establish this?
I asked you if everything worked and you said it was all tested before purchase.
Did I misunderstand?

Here are the images. You’re right, the black cable was NOT running to the batteries, but to the truck.

Ah so there is a truck.
I thought this thing was a static setup.

I’m thinking that they switched from getting shore power from the normal line to the vehicle or other source, would I be right in assuming that?

Shore power is alternating current.
Unless the truck has an inverter, probably not.