Daly bms junk

[Jgb3]

Everything looked good yesterday cell voltages all the settings so I went to charge my batteries today and one bms wasn’t charging so I went to the set parameters screen accidentally changed it from lifepo4 to titanate and now it is stuck on titanate any advice would be appreciated
Thanks

 

[Jgb3]

I switched the negative and the balance lead with my other bms and it works fine so it is something in the bms I put on the Bluetooth instead of the touch screen and the pic is the codes it’s giving me is it trash?

 

[Jgb3]

Junk and they won’t replace it so a waste of $500
Any recommendations on another brand

 

[Mcgivor]

Accidentally switching to titanate would cause an over cell voltage shutdown, have you removed the sense wire connector then plug back in after restoring the BMS to LiFePo4 ?

 

[Jgb3]

Accidentally switching to titanate would cause an over cell voltage shutdown, have you removed the sense wire connector then plug back in after restoring the BMS to LiFePo4 ?

Turns out I didn’t change it to titanate on accident cause the other one did the same thing when I set the sleep time it just changed itself to titanate and I can’t change it with the touch screen I have to hook it up to the Bluetooth and use my phone. But as far as the junk bms the rep from the dalybms store said the code meant the chip is damaged and needs repaired

 

[OffGridInTheCity]

Junk and they won’t replace it so a waste of $500
Any recommendations on another brand

I know what you mean! I have Batrium for my big powerwall and its been reliable. However, for the smaller stuff - I settled on Chargery 8T and 16T for my APC 7s and 14s 18650 packs. I just can't stand having a BMS that I can't see what's happening.... and I don't want to use my phone... so the Chargery design with plug-in'able display works for me.

HOWEVER - only 1/2 of the 8 Chargery(s) I've purchased so far have been functional as I would like. So maybe its the same with DALY - just hit/miss - and you might replace it and do better? But it sure costs - hundreds and hundreds of dollars!!
On the other side - I do have 4 Chargery's working smoothy for a year now.


Here's some of my failures with Chargery to give you a sense of what I mean:

1) 'something' (a resistor?) burned up (for no reason) after a few hours of operation.
*Chargery's fault.



2) Another Chargery shorted/went-dead when I pushed a temp probe (a required item) in-between the cells and it touched 'something' on the pack and apparently shorted the insides. I still think the probe insulation should have protected against this and I'm not sure it was the negative (an exposed bus bar or metal can of 18650) or positive that the probe shorted to.
*My fault but really - the probe should be better insulated?


3) Another Chargery stopped balancing when an accidental short on the pack occurred. The fuse wires blew 'very well' However the Chargery would turn on but stopped doing anything - why?
*My fault. But it would be nice if Chargery was a bit more robust? - not sure on this one.

4) Replaced it with a brand new unit and it's working (balancing, turning external relay on/off) but now the display is just stuck on instead of sleeping. So the feature where it 'wakes up' when something is wrong is not working.
*Chargery fault? - it works but doesn't work 100% - did I do something?


Many issues but yet as far as I can find - it's the best set of functionality for me and when it works it really does work!

 

[Jgb3]

I know what you mean! I have Batrium for my big powerwall and its been reliable. However, for the smaller stuff - I settled on Chargery 8T and 16T for my APC 7s and 14s 18650 packs. I just can't stand having a BMS that I can't see what's happening.... and I don't want to use my phone... so the Chargery design with plug-in'able display works for me.

HOWEVER - only 1/2 of the 8 Chargery(s) I've purchased so far have been functional as I would like. So maybe its the same with DALY - just hit/miss - and you might replace it and do better? But it sure costs - hundreds and hundreds of dollars!!
On the other side - I do have 4 Chargery's working smoothy for a year now.


Here's some of my failures with Chargery to give you a sense of what I mean:

1) 'something' (a resistor?) burned up (for no reason) after a few hours of operation.
*Chargery's fault.
View attachment 59965


2) Another Chargery shorted/went-dead when I pushed a temp probe (a required item) in-between the cells and it touched 'something' on the pack and apparently shorted the insides. I still think the probe insulation should have protected against this and I'm not sure it was the negative (an exposed bus bar or metal can of 18650) or positive that the probe shorted to.
*My fault but really - the probe should be better insulated?


3) Another Chargery stopped balancing when an accidental short on the pack occurred. The fuse wires blew 'very well' However the Chargery would turn on but stopped doing anything - why?
*My fault. But it would be nice if Chargery was a bit more robust? - not sure on this one.

4) Replaced it with a brand new unit and it's working (balancing, turning external relay on/off) but now the display is just stuck on instead of sleeping. So the feature where it 'wakes up' when something is wrong is not working.
*Chargery fault? - it works but doesn't work 100% - did I do something?
View attachment 59966

Many issues but yet as far as I can find - it's the best set of functionality for me and when it works it really does work!

Yeah I’m gonna start doing some research so I have some back ups just not sure where to start yet seems a lot are limited to 100 amps and my inverter can draw 300 amps and charge up to 180 amps so probably need something that runs a contactor

 

[OffGridInTheCity]

Yeah I’m gonna start doing some research so I have some back ups just not sure where to start yet seems a lot are limited to 100 amps and my inverter can draw 300 amps and charge up to 180 amps so probably need something that runs a contactor

One point here - you can use an external 300a (or more) relay such as something like this (https://www.ebay.com/itm/274667765050) - which will give you more options to consider low amp / cheaper BMSs.
Here's a good youtube to show what I'm talking about:

*I know - its extra hookup/messy to have external relay, but its not that bad to get more options / save $.

 

[Mcgivor]

Starting contactors shouldn't be used in offgrid due to their high coil current and intermittent duty rating, there are other options which are available using low current holding coils, some as low as 20mA , high current coils will potentially damage whatever drives them by reverse EMF caused by the collapsed magnetic field when turning off if a snubbing diode is not used.

My use of a Chargery was initially for the display, it is connected in parallel with a MOSFET BMS, as an afterthought I used it's outputs to drive contactors as a second line of defense. After reading extensively about BMS failure I'm considering using the Chargery as the sole BMS as in concept it's a good design using electromechanical connect/disconnect as opposed to strictly electronic.

 

[JimmyL]

This is an Australian BMS that i will be using soon. Not as flash looking or anything but seems to fit the bill. These guys have been building batteries for a long time.

 

[Mcgivor]

This is an Australian BMS that i will be using soon. Not as flash looking or anything but seems to fit the bill. These guys have been building batteries for a long time.

What's the price, looks like a solid design with some thought put into it.

 

[JimmyL]

This one is AU$400 plus AU$18 per cell monitor. Not cheap but the big Daly aren't cheap either. This also has seperate contactors for charge and discharge which i think is a must. Why would i ever want my inverter to switch off if a cell went high? I don't have a link to this one but this is their website https://www.ev-power.com.au/
Remember prices are in Australian dollars.

 

[Jgb3]

Well at least I have one that works for now

 

[Jgb3]

So now that I’m down to one bms I will have to hook these up 2p16s is there any good way to pair the cells or does it not matter

 

[Jgb3]

So now that I’m down to one bms I will have to hook these up 2p16s is there any good way to pair the cells or does it not matter

Not how I want to run it but when I get the second bms back I will split it up

 

[Jgb3]

Even more bad news for the Daly bms. The one 500 amp smart bms I have left won’t let me charge over 70-80 amps. Anything over that and it opens the circuit fast enough it doesn’t even throw a fault code but it makes the inverter throw a over charge code (fault 03 on growatt) guess I need to try one of those chargery bms’s

 

[RV10flyer]

I’m having the same exact issue with a newly installed Daly 250 16S switching over to Lithium Titanate! It was manufactured late 2020. Ordered from Aliblabla or Express.

Redundancy is very important in aviation as well as off grid solar. I ordered six different BMS brands for my 6 ea 16S 280 aH batteries soon to be all set up.

 

[Jgb3]

I’m having the same exact issue with a newly installed Daly 250 16S switching over to Lithium Titanate! It was manufactured late 2020. Ordered from Aliblabla or Express.

Redundancy is very important in aviation as well as off grid solar. I ordered six different BMS brands for my 6 ea 16S 280 aH batteries soon to be all set up.

I was able to get the lifepo4 to stay when I used Bluetooth and not the touch screen but yeah I’m not having any luck with Daly one was junk and the one that is working I can’t go over about 70 amps charging cause the switch opens and triggers over voltage on my inverter even when battery is nearly dead

 

[RV10flyer]

I was able to get the lifepo4 to stay when I used Bluetooth and not the touch screen but yeah I’m not having any luck with Daly one was junk and the one that is working I can’t go over about 70 amps charging cause the switch opens and triggers over voltage on my inverter even when battery is nearly dead

I did it on the intermittent (Power Saver, Aggravate The Customers After 5 Minute Mode) Bluetooth and also on the (Enable Half Of The Parameters) Touchscreen. Same results 5 minutes later!

Thankful I bought ChargeryX2, ANT, and several others for redundancy. I will also install Manual Transfer/Bypass Switches on every one of them.

 

[Mcgivor]

@Jgb3

Although I've not had any problems with my two FET BMS''s, one being a Daly, I am in the process of replacing them both with contactor based units believing that they are inherently safer due to not having an electronic connection that can fail in an unsafe condition, I do have a Chargery which will replace the Daly. The other will either be a Chargery or a 500A relay based smart BMS I've sourced, seems the majority of failures is related to FET failure of some sort or not using one at all.
Another option is to use a smart BMS to drive a contactor, this would mean the only current the FET-s would carry is the 3A pickup and 20mA holding of the coil, some features would be lost, over current and short circuit protection, but the important cell voltage protection would still function normally.

Not being critical but rather pointing out something you may want to consider changing the SPD ground wires, they should be as straight as possible going directly to the ground rod, as opposed to being connected to a common ground bus, having them indoors is considered bad practice as it's inviting potential lightning into the home, I mounted mine in a weather proof enclosure outside above the ground rod, the breaker are indoors for convenience, the remote array has local disconnects for service purposes.

Can't see due to resolution what the Uc voltage is on the SPD's, but they should be only slightly higher than the SCC operating voltage, many are designed for grid tied higher voltage string arrays 600-1000V, these won't offer much protection to a system operating at 150V max, for example.