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Can Growatt Inverter do this?

Too funny I literally just sold mine last week on ebay. Too many issue with it (current monitor didn't work) and did not support split phase and didn't have a charger.

Does growatt or mppsolar offer this ability?
 
So who offers a grid tie that has the sensors and supports battery?
If an inverter supports a battery and can feed the grid it is generally called a hybrid inverter. Both grid tie inverters and hybrids inverter can be fitted with current sensors that can limit export to the grid to a finite number of kWs or zero kWs. Search for hybrid inverter to get a list. Sol Ark and Outback are just two manufacturers that come to mind. The true grid tie inverter will not run if the grid is down.
 
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Too funny I literally just sold mine last week on ebay. Too many issue with it (current monitor didn't work) and did not support split phase and didn't have a charger.

Does growatt or mppsolar offer this ability?
You need one per leg.

I’ve got 2, one on L1 and one on L2 and they work like a charm (off of the same 24V battery).

You need to get the clamp sensors attached to the correct legs and attached in the correct orientation, but marries with a half-decent charge controller, these little blue boxes truly are a wonder.

I’m amazed at the capability I’ve managed to assemble for only $750 ($250 for each box).

Will they last more than a year or two? Too early to say, but I’m planning a larger system for ~2 years from now and this little ‘learner’ system I put together has paid off on spades so far…

Some Growat inverters do seem to have GTIL capability, but every model I’ve seen won’t deliver less than 230VAC (you need 120VAC to support appliances here in the US).
 
If an inverter supports a battery and can feed the grid it is generally called a hybrid inverter. As discussed in this thread a hybrid inverter can be fitted with current sensors that can limit export to the grid to a finite number of kWs or zero kWs. Search for hybrid inverter to get a list. Sol Ark and Outback are just two manufacturers that come to mind.
GTIL inverters generally utilize externally wired sensors clamped into the mains (L1 and L2) and they are wired fully in parallel with the grid.

Hybrid inverters generally require you to position them in between the grid and the loads and sense grid consumption internally.

Both Hybrid inverters and GTILs support zero export, but the rewiring required to install a hybrid inverter is one to two orders of magnitude more complex that the (minor) additional wiring needed to support GTILs (one additional 2-pole 240V circuit / breaker).
 
You need one per leg.

I’ve got 2, one on L1 and one on L2 and they work like a charm (off of the same 24V battery).

You need to get the clamp sensors attached to the correct legs and attached in the correct orientation, but marries with a half-decent charge controller, these little blue boxes truly are a wonder.

I’m amazed at the capability I’ve managed to assemble for only $750 ($250 for each box).

Will they last more than a year or two? Too early to say, but I’m planning a larger system for ~2 years from now and this little ‘learner’ system I put together has paid off on spades so far…

Some Growat inverters do seem to have GTIL capability, but every model I’ve seen won’t deliver less than 230VAC (you need 120VAC to support appliances here in the US).
What about this one?

 
Both Hybrid inverters and GTILs support zero export, but the rewiring required to install a hybrid inverter is one to two orders of magnitude more complex that the (minor) additional wiring needed to support GTILs (one additional 2-pole 240V circuit / breaker).
Yes, that complexity is what allows the hybrid to use batteries to run loads when the grid is down. The big advantage of GTIL inverters is cost and no need to apply for Permission to Operate since they don't backfeed the grid.
 
Yes, that complexity is what allows the hybrid to use batteries to run loads when the grid is down. The big advantage of GTIL inverters is cost and no need to apply for Permission to Operate since they don't backfeed the grid.
Both observations are spot-on.

GTILs don’t support backup, but they cost a fraction of what a half-decent hybrid inverter costs (Solark, for example).
 
Yes, that complexity is what allows the hybrid to use batteries to run loads when the grid is down. The big advantage of GTIL inverters is cost and no need to apply for Permission to Operate since they don't backfeed the grid.
Exactly what I'm looking for. If you can find one that does all this post the link for all to see ;)

Thanks!
 
Exactly what I'm looking for.
What? A hybrid or GTIL? There are several GTILs discussed in this thread. If you are asking about a hybrid I am most familiar with the Sol Ark or the Outback Skybox. No need to post a link since this forum is full of discussions that many have seen. What is your budget?
 
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I've seen the Sol-Ark 12k for sale near me for $6100. Most are asking $6300+
The 8k isn't much cheaper; I wouldn't bother with it.
I would give Ian a call at Watts247.com
He sells MPP Solar and Growatt and can tell you what each model can or can't do
 
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I've seen the Sol-Ark 12k for sale near me for $6100. Most are asking $6300+
The 8k isn't much cheaper; I wouldn't bother with it.
I would give Ian a call at Watts247.com
He sells MPP Solar and Growatt and can tell you what each model can or can't do
Would this system do the same?

OutBack Power SBX5048-120/240 SkyBox 5,000 Watts True Hybrid Energy System​

SKU
SBX5048-120/240

I think some have stated however that the Sol-Ark has the ability to run in parallel with another unit, the Outback does not. Also I think the warranty is better on the Sol-Ark.
 
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What? A hybrid or GTIL? There are several GTILs discussed in this thread. If you are asking about a hybrid I am most familiar with the Sol Ark or the Outback Skybox. No need to post a link since this forum is full of discussions that many have seen. What is your budget?
I already have 36 435 watt Trina Panels and 48v 280AH LifePo4 pack with built in BMS. I figure I need to spend another 5-7K to get a good inverter. the biggest challenge is powering the loads panel (without having to split off the panel into a subpanel i.e. critical loads panel) as we want to keep installation stupid simple. The second biggest issue is can the inverter be programmed to use the batteries after Solar PV is dark.

The theory is to utilize all the solar and battery power first, then grid only as required (Load surges, battery depleted, etc.,) all the while remaining grid tied but NEVER selling back to the grid (no permitting required). I realize that when the grid goes down so does the inverter.

Ideally (icing on the cake) you could turn off mains power in the load panel and crank up a generator to charge the batteries and have them run the loads, or use the generator input on the inverter, etc.. PROVIDED you are not connected to the grid. I realize a critical loads panel does this (in effect) BUT it requires you re-wire the existing loads panel and transfer all that wiring/breakers over to a loads panel (yet another expense and eye sore.
 
I already have 36 435 watt Trina Panels and 48v 280AH LifePo4 pack with built in BMS. I figure I need to spend another 5-7K to get a good inverter. the biggest challenge is powering the loads panel (without having to split off the panel into a subpanel i.e. critical loads panel) as we want to keep installation stupid simple. The second biggest issue is can the inverter be programmed to use the batteries after Solar PV is dark.

The theory is to utilize all the solar and battery power first, then grid only as required (Load surges, battery depleted, etc.,) all the while remaining grid tied but NEVER selling back to the grid (no permitting required). I realize that when the grid goes down so does the inverter.

Ideally (icing on the cake) you could turn off mains power in the load panel and crank up a generator to charge the batteries and have them run the loads, or use the generator input on the inverter, etc.. PROVIDED you are not connected to the grid. I realize a critical loads panel does this (in effect) BUT it requires you re-wire the existing loads panel and transfer all that wiring/breakers over to a loads panel (yet another expense and eye sore.
This is precisely what I am doing (and also precisely g the he reason I ditched the hybrid-inverter system I had all planned out).

You may have your own requirements as far as the product quality your looking for, but the SUN GTIL2 inverters will deliver the capability your looking for.

I’ve got a 560Ah 24V LiFePO4 pack which I’m able to discharge daily using only 2 1000W GTILs, but my PV array is much smaller than yours (1.14kW versus your 15.7kW).

Your 14kWh pack is exceedingly small for that size PV array.

You need to determine 2 things:

Overnight consumption in kWh

Peak generation requirements

I consume a maximum of 10kWh until morning, so my 14kWh pack is plenty, even accounting for the ~80% conversion efficiency of the GTILs.

The only loads I have exceeding the ~1.7kW maximum output of my two GTILs are:

Electric oven(3kW when element is on)
Toaster oven, coffee maker, electric kettle (each of which consume 1.5kW on one leg when their elements are on).

Use and duty cycle of all of those appliances is so low that I decided to supply what I could and draw the rest from the grid when they are being used (meaning ~50% of their compensation is being supplied by the inverter rather than the grid).

The GTILs can be stacked, so 2 per leg gives you peak output of ~3.4kW (~1.7kW per leg) and 3 per leg gives you peak output of ~5.1kW (2.55kW per leg).

At $250 to $300 per 1000W GTIL2, even maxing out a 6.8kW system with 8 is going to cost you less than 1/3rd of what you’re budgeting for a 7kW hybrid inverter system (to say nothing of the savings of not having require your loads at all - all a GTIL system requires is one new 240V circuit (dual-pole breaker like you’d use for a 240V oven or baseboard heater).

But your battery is way to small for an inverter that size. Maxed-out, a full 14kWh battery is going to last less than 2 hours generating 7kW…

I wanted my system to supply all (4) fridges/freezers all night long (which total to ~half my daily consumption).

My battery is oversized for my small array, but the system achieves those goals today and on ~2023 when we plan to purchase an EV, I will add another 1-2kW of panels and I’ll be able to supply our full daily consumption from the battery (at least the full non-heating portion - I’d need to add another 2 GTILs if I want to offset full consumption of those power-hungry appliances…).
 
I am looking into that now, I think as someone mentioned under 7K which is doable.
I would talk to Ian about using two of these in parallel :


I doubt the Sol-Ark 12k can handle all of your panels. And two of the LVX's are far cheaper. Buy a 3rd for a spare.
The LVX is a low frequency heavy duty unit (100 lbs).
I'm pretty sure the LVX uses the ac input as a backup to the solar panels and batteries.
I just couldn't get a clear answer yet; Ian will know. Can you come back here and let us know what he said?
801-403-0336
sales@watts247.com
 
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I am looking into that now, I think as someone mentioned under 7K which is doable.
I can run my whole home with the 12K Grid tied and my bill was really high at 50Kwh daily because I run a salt water aquarium and that alone is consuming about 20KWh per day. I have 21KWh of batteries and 10.4Kw of Panels hooked up to the Sol-Ark. If I had 30KWh of batteries like you I would have probably gone off grid.

It's a thing of beauty to watch the Sol-Ark in action, it uses just PV as long as the sun is shinning, if clouds come over it will use the batteries along with the lower PV output and if the PV drops lower and your at the maximum allowed battery power you set for that time period it will draw the extra power from the Grid. All three can be used in combination to jointly power the house. When the clouds pass it will drop the Grid and use less battery power until none is needed then the house is on Just PV again and excess PV power is used to charge back the batteries first and then sell to the grid second (if that option is selected). At night you can schedule it to run the house on Batteries and if that runs down it will use the Grid or a generator to keep things running.
If the power goes down it will transfer to Solar/Batteries within 4ms so its almost impossible to tell when there is an outage. The only way I know is that the phone App sends me a push notification.

With the night schedule I set battery usage times and the max KW it can draw during each period, anything over that max and it will supplement it with grid power. So if by chance three AC compressors kick on at the same time and it needs more than the 2.8KW that I set and lets say it needs 4.5KW it will draw 1.7KW from the grid for as long as it is needed. You can also set it to Grid charge the batteries during certain periods or if the batteries reach down to a certain level.
During a power outage the limitations in scheduling will be bypassed and it will use what you set as the maximum draw from the batteries as the limit. If for some reason the unit trips and I have only had this happen once when I was testing the limits, the unit will reset itself in a minute and go back to normal operation.


I am still using Grid power for about five hours in the evening using the scheduling feature but the remaining 20% of the bill is reducing rapidly as we change a few of our habits to get more things done in the daytime. If for some reason you need more power I understand that Sol-Ark will be releasing a 15K unit in a couple of months. I don't really agree with some of the posts saying to get a low freq inverter with a big transformer. Yes they are really good at starting heavy loads but they are also very inefficient when compared to transformless models.

I am an EE and designed the wiring and layout plus installed most of my system myself. I am not into DIY solar as a hobby as I have lots of hobbies already. What I needed was reliable power and just wanted a system that is straight forward yet extremely customizable.
Sol-Ark pretty much ticked all the right boxes for me.
 
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The whole point of GTIL inverters is that they are in parallel with the grid.

Their are no ‘critical loads’.

There are just loads (whichever loads are connected to the wires being sensed, including the entire house).

When the GTIL senses power being consumed by the grid, it attempts to ‘push back’ by generating an equal and offsetting amount of power so all loads are powered by energy coming from the GTIL and grid consumption drops close to 0W.

When loads exceed GTIL maximum output levels (when starting a refrigerator or runnning an electric oven), the GTIL will max out, offsetting as much grid consumption as it can, and the grid will supply the rest (over either a shortterm motor startup burst or a longtime Turkey roast).

When the battery is drained and there is no incoming PV power, the GTIL will shut down and all loads will be powered exclusively from the grid.

GTILs allow self-consumption to be powered by solar energy with pretty much zero changes to home wiring (just a new breaker/circuit for the GTIL itself).

I was planning to go full hybrid (in-the-path inverter including transfer switches), but the cost of rewiring as well as the dependency on a new electronic ‘box’ in the primary power path are what steered me to GTILs instead.

They are not for everyone because they cannot be ‘official’ (at least not yet) but they are a true marvel for those of us who are comfortable going off the beaten path..
Exactly what I am looking for. What GTIL did you end up using? I also want the battery to be able to feed the GTIL so we get the most out of the solar panels (ie. power the loads and use excess power to charge the batteries, when solar is gone start using the batteries.). I think of the batteries as a solar storage device, where the PV panels are the main source to power the GTIL and the batteries are there as a backup to the PV Panels as another input into the GTIL
 
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