diy solar

diy solar

Pls help me with system design

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Ok I think I see 2x orange romex going in and something in grey flex conduit.

There appears to be a big black cable that has a lot of wires and a shag-nasty bit of electrical tape.
It looks to be be mangled before it goes into the box.
Is that going into the box?

My guess is one of the bits of romex goes to the generator and the other bit goes to the ac distribution panel, please confirm?
The grey flex conduit probably goes to the inlet, please confirm?
 
Ok I think I see 2x orange romex going in and something in grey flex conduit.

There appears to be a big black cable that has a lot of wires and a shag-nasty bit of electrical tape.
It looks to be be mangled before it goes into the box.
Is that going into the box?

My guess is one of the bits of romex goes to the generator and the other bit goes to the ac distribution panel, please confirm?
The grey flex conduit probably goes to the inlet, please confirm?
Appears to be correct
 
Is there continuity between neutral and ground on the inverter.
Shut it off before you test.
 
What about the mangled mess of wires and electrical tape?
I think the grey cord has wiring for the shore power and the generator

I tracked the black mess to the other side of the camper and then it goes out, at first I thought it was going into the box but it’s just near the box D0F766C2-D061-466E-A443-176BDB14DC1A.jpegD1693FC3-D85B-4E3F-96EC-1580EFB5A4DA.jpegA334DF3B-D5D7-4C4A-81AE-1E7C61291295.jpeg60678C7C-05E0-4458-83A8-EB79B1A9E424.jpeg48065567-16C0-468C-A58B-5C7ECA25CBD0.jpeg
 
Hmm my Inverter is basic , I think it only has positive and negative , what do you mean?

That would be very unusual.
The nema 5-15 outlet has
Hot=narrow slot
Neutral=wide slot
Ground=round hole

The following bit is dangerous so if you are not comfortable doing this, please don't.

With the power off test for...
* make sure there is continuity between N and G

If the previous test passes...
with the power on test for...
* make sure there is 120V between H and N
* make sure there is 120V between H and G
* make sure there is 0V between N and G
 
If it doesn't go into the ATS then I'm not worried about it. :)
 
Here is a textual representation of your system.
Don't worry if you don't understand it.
I will draw something using draw.io tomorrow night.
Code:
dc {
    * 12 volt system floating
    * ac/dc distro 10 feet round trip to core
    * 75 amp fuse because the dc distribution center backplane is part of the circuit.
    core {
        pos { * littlefuse fhz 7 with fuses over the busbar
            004|150|<->200A_breaker<->battery.pos
            004|150|<-scc.output.pos
            004|150|<-dc2dc_charger.output.pos
            004|150|->inverter.pos
            004|075|->dc_distribution.pos
            016|001|->shunt.pos
        }
        neg { * 4 position busbar
            004|UUU|<->shunt.neg.aux
            004|UUU|->scc.output.neg
            004|UUU|->dc2dc_charger.output.neg
            004|UUU|<-inverter.neg
            004|UUU|<-dc_distribution.neg
        }
    }
    shunt {
        pos
        neg {
            aux
            bat<->bms<->battery.neg
        }
    }
    dc2dc_charger {
        * 60 amp dc2dc charger
        * should be using 2 awg but that big honkin alternator can compensate for the voltage drop
        output {
            pos
            neg
        }
        input {
            pos<-alternator.pos
            neg->starter_battery.neg
        }
    }
    inverter { * 1200w watt inverter
        pos
        neg
    }
    scc { * scc 100/50A
        output {
            pos
            neg
        }
        input {
            pos<-dp_breaker<-panels
            neg->dp_breaker->panels
        }
    }
}
 
Last edited:
So the positive lead of the multimeter goes into which ?
with the meter set for continuity.
touch the meter leads and you should here a tone.
If that works...
turn the inverter power off.
Put the positive lead in the H slot and the negative lead in the N slot.
Don't be part of the circuit there could still be power in the inverter's surge capacitors even though it is off.
 
With the power off test for...
* make sure there is continuity between N and G
0.0 - 0.1 volts
If the previous test passes...
with the power on test for...
* make sure there is 120V between H and N
91.5 volts
* make sure there is 120V between H and G
0.0 volts
* make sure there is 0V between N and G
0.0 volts

Probably messed something up

I don’t think the end of the leads is reaching far enough inside the nema
 
Check this out, I did the test on the extension cord that I have running from the inverter itself because I could get better connections on this Max 96 V

image.jpg
 
Check this out, I did the test on the extension cord that I have running from the inverter itself because I could get better connections on this Max 96 V
Maybe because its a modified sine wave inverter and you have an non-RMS meter.
Just a wild guess on my part.
 
Last edited:
Maybe because its a modified sine wave inverter and you have an RMS meter.
Just a wild guess on my part.
Regarding the inverter, I watched a video today where this guy on YouTube walked through several different scenarios on how to wire an inverter, and the different types of inverters and how they integrate into the RV. At 8:24 you can see him describe “a basic inverter” I believe that fits exactly what my system is. When you say you don’t want to integrate the inverter into the AC panel, I thought we weren’t doing that anyway because I just have a basic inverter that can’t be hardwired?

 
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