I was concerned when I saw this also and contacted someone who is using these cells in a house (non-mobile) application and he pulls 200 amps from the batteries and pushes up to 150 amps into them. He said they were warm, not hot, but did not use them in a fixed not mobile.
This is ME, and this was done during the Hard Thrash testing process I ran this srpring. These tests were to determine the Failing Edge cases and fail over process, as I'm 100% Offgrid, quite remote and totally rural and can be snowed in for days, so I have to know what the system will/won't do.
Clarification required. I run 3x280AH & 2x175AH LFP for 1190AH/30.4kWh @ 24V and this is Residential, non-mobile. Because the Battery Bank is such a size & layout, it never collectively sees High Amp use... I consider <100A low use and when it's split with 5 packs, it's not much strain at all. BTW: 2x 280 use screwed terminals, 1x280ah has welded studs.
The Thrash Testing involved the full bank but also single pack full loading (charge/discharge) I pushed up to 0.5C to all packs and pulled to 200A from the 280's & 175A from the 175's. NB: The 175's are EV LFP, NOT ESS LFP, they came from the "Shunbin Disaster" and a slightly different cell. My system is also built to handle 300A, so BMS/DCC etc are all 300A Rated.
Default Busbars shipped by most vendors are 2mm thick by 15mm or 20mm wide with slotted holes. Most people double the busbars and that works out perfectly. Do understand that Amps put out by a battery pack is the Collective Amps from the cells... folks forget that important nugget.
I have made my own busbars with 110 Copper Bar Stock, and even went Big & Heavy and that was a costly lesson ! (copper != Cheap) and with all the testing and hard abuse level stuff, I found that Doubled Busbars at 4mm Thick x 20mm wide can handle it fine. Applies to BOTH Welded Studs & Screwed in Terminals.
KICKER: Technically, the screw/bolt should not be depended on for delivering current (the normal default) BUT a Welded Stud is reconsidered as integral to the terminal and as such can / does carry current to bars. I KNOW, but it's the Welding that changes the rule as such.
A TIP - Important for Mobile Especially. People, Split Ring Lock Washers are K.R.A.P. ! Please for Goodness Sake, use Stainless
Serrated Washers !!!, they grab, hook in and stay put ! People have failed to listen to this, suffered issues and then came back to be told AGAIN and once done their problems went away and they NEVER COME BACK TO SAY SO ! (they say so in PM cause they don't wanna look dumb for not listening in the 1st place) Don't be one of them !
Tin Plated Bar Stock is available just not easy and you will pay a premium.
Do not use Crap Copper, use C-110 at least.
You can use Aluminium but use no less than 4mm x 20mm.
With Tinned Bars, you do not "have to" use Noalox/OxGuard but you can (marine environment best to use).
NB: Use only a very tiny amout of oxguard (very thin fil, no buildup), NEVER EVER on the threads (it is a grease).
BMS Sense Lead Tip !
These buggers cause many a lot of headaches ! Folks, you have no idea, it is a major issue. One SIMPLE SOLUTION but takes extra time, Tap a small screw hole into the busbar & using a very short self-taping screw to attach the sense leads to Busbar and NOT the terminal post. FYI/BTW, all proper Commercial Packs do it this way, rather than attempting to attach to terminals which can through values off... Remember these BMS' are Super Sensitive, they work in Millivolts & Milliamps and it really takes very little to throw them off.
Hope it helps, Good Luck.