Which power supply for Riden RD6018

[Just John]

Hey guys, I am having second thoughts on my RD6018 for charging 48v

Suddenly my positive leed, which uses a gold plated connector, is heating up due to a bad connection? It appears to be melting at amps above 14 amp. Because I use this daily, this is a concern. It won't come off.

I'm worried if you buy the 24A one and start using it for more than an hour, it will also melt.

Any solution? I am not sure how to make this connection better. If there's a solution, let me know (kind of urgent). I have a 24A 48v on order from signature solar, but haven't heard about my shipping in two weeks. I might end up in the dark for a bit!

Sounds like you have a bad connection. Use at least 10 gauge wire and the proper crimp tool.

Be very much aware that they are limited what they can output at 48 volts (58.4v) by the power supply. The 1000 watt supply they sell with the Riden should be limited to 950 watts output according to Riden. That's around 16 amps. If you are using it to charge a 48v battery pack, the 24 amp version will do you no good.

Looks like they also just added a cable set, I hadn't seen it before.

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FYI, the banana jacks are a standard 4mm. Apparently these are no longer available, but they worked well for me (but I use spade lugs and ring terminals normally).

I removed the Amazon link, since it now points to a different set of plugs. The ones I used are also gold plated, but solder ends. They also don't have the (very poor connection) banana ends that swivel/rotate and make poor contact.

 

[offgriddave]

Dave,
I have meanwell chargers for my serious stuff,
The RD is just to play with.
Look up the new mean well charge lines, I have a bunch of OLD PB model,
PB = I can't adjust the voltage,
But new line of charger, you can adjust/fine tune the output voltage.

6 awg wire in a banana? how big is this banana plug?
remember amps = heat so take it down a notch and be safe.

Not sure I follow, what DIED?

sorry...

Here is a picture

I think it is a wonderful product, BUT I don't think it is rated for a duty cycle of 2-4 hours at 44-54v 14+ amp. I don't think the connectors are rated to do this. However, if you are top leveling batteries, this is the product to have.

But I am using it for off grid to charge batteries 1500w per day.

DIED -
what happened was, look at the Positive terminal in the picture. If you look really close there's some browning, that's where it is melting. I'm watching the charger and checking the temp. After about 1.5 hour it got hot so I turned it off. WHen I turned it back on, the display read "24v" instead of 48+ volts it should have. I turned it off for a few hours. It came back up right now.

I set it from 11 amp to 9 amps let's see what it does

I have a fire extinguisher right here.

 

[Just John]

I think it is a wonderful product, BUT I don't think it is rated for a duty cycle of 2-4 hours at 44-54v 14+ amp. I don't think the connectors are rated to do this. However, if you are top leveling batteries, this is the product to have.

The connections work just fine for 18 amps, for days at a time.

Your problem is a bad connection. Spade lugs, 10 gauge wire, and ring terminals to connect to the battery will solve all of your problems.
Be sure (if using 110v in the USA) to limit the power output to 950 watts as Riden recommends.

 

[JUGG]

Welcome to the forum, I was looking forward to that PS, I picked one up already.
Yeah, make sure you post per forum rules for Corps.

You guys a HUGE following in USA, why not ship this stuff locally and pass on the savings to us?

Also, maybe RD can hook us with a UL rated 60v 900w ish PS.

thank you for message, I am so glad that you welcome us here
in fact, for now there is not warehouse in US, we have a Amazon shop, but the stock is not enough, because the stock cost is too high
in fact you can order it from aliexpress, it is fast , the price is cheaper than Amazon
900w? we have 1000w and 800w
why do you need 900w ?

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this link have 1000w and 800w

 

[JUGG]

Hey guys, I am having second thoughts on my RD6018 for charging 48v

Suddenly my positive leed, which uses a gold plated connector, is heating up due to a bad connection? It appears to be melting at amps above 14 amp. Because I use this daily, this is a concern. It won't come off.

I'm worried if you buy the 24A one and start using it for more than an hour, it will also melt.

Any solution? I am not sure how to make this connection better. If there's a solution, let me know (kind of urgent). I have a 24A 48v on order from signature solar, but haven't heard about my shipping in two weeks. I might end up in the dark for a bit!

you mean the output cable? you can check our banana cables, we have 25A cables, the quality is best , it is sutiable for RD6024 , even for RD6018

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[JUGG]

Yes, it will MELT if you use the spade connectors with the 16 awg cables (guessing) that came with it,

I crimped 12 awg and 10 awg beefy spades and they still warmed up.

Looking around I found that you need to use a BANANA plug,
The 6024 mentions this overtly.

Any clue what diameter banana plugs will fit the RDs?

Any clue what diameter banana plugs will fit the RDs-- 4mm , in fact, you can use our recommend banana cables 25A, quality is best
for RD6024 and RD6018, It is enough

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[JUGG]

Here is a picture

I think it is a wonderful product, BUT I don't think it is rated for a duty cycle of 2-4 hours at 44-54v 14+ amp. I don't think the connectors are rated to do this. However, if you are top leveling batteries, this is the product to have.

But I am using it for off grid to charge batteries 1500w per day.

DIED -
what happened was, look at the Positive terminal in the picture. If you look really close there's some browning, that's where it is melting. I'm watching the charger and checking the temp. After about 1.5 hour it got hot so I turned it off. WHen I turned it back on, the display read "24v" instead of 48+ volts it should have. I turned it off for a few hours. It came back up right now.

I set it from 11 amp to 9 amps let's see what it does

I have a fire extinguisher right here.

if you use RD6018 to charge the battery, please use green and black port , don't use red port
the green is designed for charging battery

 

[Struc]

Any clue what diameter banana plugs will fit the RDs-- 4mm , in fact, you can use our recommend banana cables 25A, quality is best
for RD6024 and RD6018, It is enough

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Your ad states this for your cables:

25A cable: wire gauge 2.51mm² (Gauge AWG: 13AWG)

2.5mm^2 cable is 14AWG. You throw on .01mm and call it 13AWG?

Regardless, you should be sizing your cable for 25A, which would be more like 11AWG (5mm^2)

 

[JUGG]

hello, because for the cable, we ordered 13AWG cable from the cable manufacturer, and finish the assembly in our factory, the 2.51mm² is what we measure actually, in China, 2.5mm² cable is considered to be 13AWG, you can search 13AWG cable on aliexpress to see their parameter, for its performance, we already made test video

 

[sshibly]

Your ad states this for your cables:

25A cable: wire gauge 2.51mm² (Gauge AWG: 13AWG)

2.5mm^2 cable is 14AWG. You throw on .01mm and call it 13AWG?

Regardless, you should be sizing your cable for 25A, which would be more like 11AWG (5mm^2)

Could it be that US ampere has more current than Chinese ampere, so in turn we have to use thicker wire for US amps vs Chinese amps?

 

[offgriddave]

hello, because for the cable, we ordered 13AWG cable from the cable manufacturer, and finish the assembly in our factory, the 2.51mm² is what we measure actually, in China, 2.5mm² cable is considered to be 13AWG, you can search 13AWG cable on aliexpress to see their parameter, for its performance, we already made test video

 

[Struc]

@offgriddave EXACTLY!!

Needless to say... I will not be buying their cable kit.

 

[offgriddave]

I'm not recommending NOT to buy it, I love my RD6018. And might get the 24A. But its the terminals that I don't think are rated for continuous current over the course of 4 hours at above 15-18 amps. Regardless of what the commentors above me saying about getting 10 AWG and ring terminals, I'm on 6 AWG (bigger wire!) and gold plated banana plugs. The plug is hot but the terminal is hotter. Above melting point for what I think is a ABS plastic knob. (I think 240f, huge guess here on the material and temperature. I'm literally counting the seconds I can hold it before my fingers get to hot. ...the dutch oven method.)

What would be super awesome would be a RD6018 or RD6024 with big bolts and a breaker. Something big enough to torque down. Maybe as an option. Whatever the size calculated you would need for the correct current for the correct bolt, double it. Just because. And while we're at it, some kind of rack mount kit with a bus bar that is covered up.

I just paid $300 for a 25A charger controller from signature solar to replace my RD6018, because I have to keep the RD6018 at 500w or it gets to hot. Before it started melting, I was at the limit for my batteries (14A, 14 * 48v )

 

[Struc]

I ordered the RD6024 with a 1500w power supply separate, so I guess I'll see first hand how the terminals get. I have a temperature gun around here someplace. Those would be good options you mentioned.

I have some very good 10AWG cable I just purchased for it, with some nice ring connectors. If the knobs don't come off, I'll cut the ring.

 

[Just John]

I'm not recommending NOT to buy it, I love my RD6018. And might get the 24A. But its the terminals that I don't think are rated for continuous current over the course of 4 hours at above 15-18 amps. Regardless of what the commentors above me saying about getting 10 AWG and ring terminals, I'm on 6 AWG (bigger wire!) and gold plated banana plugs. The plug is hot but the terminal is hotter. Above melting point for what I think is a ABS plastic knob. (I think 240f, huge guess here on the material and temperature. I'm literally counting the seconds I can hold it before my fingers get to hot. ...the dutch oven method.)

What would be super awesome would be a RD6018 or RD6024 with big bolts and a breaker. Something big enough to torque down. Maybe as an option. Whatever the size calculated you would need for the correct current for the correct bolt, double it. Just because. And while we're at it, some kind of rack mount kit with a bus bar that is covered up.

I just paid $300 for a 25A charger controller from signature solar to replace my RD6018, because I have to keep the RD6018 at 500w or it gets to hot. Before it started melting, I was at the limit for my batteries (14A, 14 * 48v )

I have an RD6012 and four RD6018, never had a problem with the connectors getting warm.
They have been used for days at a time putting out their full current, although I don't have a 48v battery, only 24v.

 

[offgriddave]

I have an RD6012 and four RD6018, never had a problem with the connectors getting warm.
They have been used for days at a time putting out their full current, although I don't have a 48v battery, only 24v.

Yeah
18 amp * 28v = 504 watts... Which is just below what I have to keep it to not over heat (more like 550-600w, 11 amp * 52v 572watt)

 

[Just John]

Yeah
18 amp * 28v = 504 watts... Which is just below what I have to keep it to not over heat (more like 550-600w, 11 amp * 52v 572watt)

Yes, multi hour tests at 720 watts didn't reveal any problems. The contact area is more than adequate, if you are getting heat buildup, once again, I suggest you check your connections. Resistance is what is causing the heat.

Yes, extended testing at 720 watts, I was testing the modification of the 800 watt supply for the RD6012 at full power output (12 amps at 60 volts).

I have a lot of experience in this area, you might want to check your contacts. Once again, crimp spade lugs onto 10 gauge wire, unscrew the outer cover of the banana jacks, insert spade lug, then tighten.

The picture you posted above is not even close to a good connection.

This is what your connection should look like.

 

[JUGG]

in fact , many cable factory give fake data for their cables, we meet many many such manufacturer, for now our X25A and X15A cable were made by ourselves, so the data is right , and the quality is good , but price is expensive than other cables

 

[JUGG]

I'm not recommending NOT to buy it, I love my RD6018. And might get the 24A. But its the terminals that I don't think are rated for continuous current over the course of 4 hours at above 15-18 amps. Regardless of what the commentors above me saying about getting 10 AWG and ring terminals, I'm on 6 AWG (bigger wire!) and gold plated banana plugs. The plug is hot but the terminal is hotter. Above melting point for what I think is a ABS plastic knob. (I think 240f, huge guess here on the material and temperature. I'm literally counting the seconds I can hold it before my fingers get to hot. ...the dutch oven method.)

What would be super awesome would be a RD6018 or RD6024 with big bolts and a breaker. Something big enough to torque down. Maybe as an option. Whatever the size calculated you would need for the correct current for the correct bolt, double it. Just because. And while we're at it, some kind of rack mount kit with a bus bar that is covered up.

I just paid $300 for a 25A charger controller from signature solar to replace my RD6018, because I have to keep the RD6018 at 500w or it gets to hot. Before it started melting, I was at the limit for my batteries (14A, 14 * 48v )

our cables 25A for our RD6025 was not any problem

 

[JUGG]

for output cables, if you don't have better cables, the user can use U connector cables, but our cable banana is good for our RD6024, there is not any problem