There are many ways to do this. There is no one size fits all schematic Break it into small parts. Start with the alternator. What battery will it charge? Draw out just the alternator and its battery. Now add the dcdc charger. Etc.
If you are not familiar with this, you NEED to do some reading on marine electrical. There are considerations unique to a boat and some rules to follow.
But to get started, sketch out what you have bit by bit. Don't forget fuses and wire sizes. Post here for feedback.
I agree, victron drawings are often difficult to follow.
Regarding the DCDC and alternator. It really depends on the quality of alternator and regulator. External is better than internal, but either might or might not be able to handle charging LFP directly. If the alternator can not, then connect the alternator to the lead battery, and use the dcdc to charge the lfp. This is safest, but drastically slows charging of the LFP.
If the alternator will safely charge the lfp, then you can omit the dcdc charger and use a simple charge relay, battery isolator, in a dozen different configurations. But this usually requires an expensive alternator and a wakespeed or balmar regulator. It allows charging at very high rates, maxing out the alternator potential.
I have a BMV-712, and get less than 10 feet. Its the environment, not that the smart shunt has more or less range. Bluetooth shares spectrum with 2.4GHz wifi. A crowded area or misbehaving wifi device will affect Bluetooth reliability. It my laptop connects to a 2.4GHz hotspot my Bluetooth mouse doesn't even work. But if i use 5GHz, everything works fine.
If you are not familiar with this, you NEED to do some reading on marine electrical. There are considerations unique to a boat and some rules to follow.
But to get started, sketch out what you have bit by bit. Don't forget fuses and wire sizes. Post here for feedback.
I agree, victron drawings are often difficult to follow.
Regarding the DCDC and alternator. It really depends on the quality of alternator and regulator. External is better than internal, but either might or might not be able to handle charging LFP directly. If the alternator can not, then connect the alternator to the lead battery, and use the dcdc to charge the lfp. This is safest, but drastically slows charging of the LFP.
If the alternator will safely charge the lfp, then you can omit the dcdc charger and use a simple charge relay, battery isolator, in a dozen different configurations. But this usually requires an expensive alternator and a wakespeed or balmar regulator. It allows charging at very high rates, maxing out the alternator potential.
I have a BMV-712, and get less than 10 feet. Its the environment, not that the smart shunt has more or less range. Bluetooth shares spectrum with 2.4GHz wifi. A crowded area or misbehaving wifi device will affect Bluetooth reliability. It my laptop connects to a 2.4GHz hotspot my Bluetooth mouse doesn't even work. But if i use 5GHz, everything works fine.