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LG Chem Batteries from Battery Hookup. 5.94 KWh

Mart Hale

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Feb 4, 2020
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I just bought 3 of these, now trying to find everything about them.



LG Electronics LiMM-C.F/LGE
Model Name Vista 2.0 Cell Module Assembly
Rated energy 5.94 KWh
Contains 30 LG Chem N2.1 60ah cells


I have been trying to find data on the N2.1 60ah cells, and I find none :(


I bought these for the KWH, If they have this capacity then I got a great deal.

Will be next week when the inverter comes that I can test capacity.
 

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Digging more into this Chevy EV battery I bought. I found the side panels pop off and I can see the packets ends can be seen with joints of copper. Thinking I may have to drill, then use a rivet to attach my BMS wires. Or.... I find a pinout of the connectors on the end. This is 5.94 KWH of battery. Small but HEAVY.
 

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36V inverter has arrived. Testing one of these bad boys out now.
 

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I have installed the BMS, now I am running into issues.... The bms does not power the daly 10s bms does not power the inverter with enough power to turn on. I must be missing something..... I took the power directly to the batter and the inverter turns on. I checked every pin of the wiring and I am getting the proper voltage each of the wires from the cells to the BMS.
 

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Sometimes the BMS needs its own power source before it will start working properly. Have you looked into that? I’m pretty sure there’s a YouTube video out there showing this.
 
I actually found on another tread here someone had trouble with the bms and it may of been that I did not pre-charge the inverter before I hooked it up and may of fried it. In that thread they show how to check the BMS to see if it is damaged. I did use a resister between the inverter and the bms when I hooked it up but I need to test the bms to see if it is ok, I have two other BMS to check to see if this one is faulty I will just swap it out.
 
I was bummed out I had thought I had a blue tooth BMS, but alas this has no blue tooth... I now need a way to check the cells but hard to find a cell checker that is 10s.
 
This morning I replaced the burnt out BMS with another one after pre charging the inverter. The replaced BMS is now working great. that was my problem, I did not pre charge the inverter.
 
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Well... I found out the BMS has voltage protection which is higher than my UPS.... sadly to get it to kick back on I have to unhook the BMS then Hook it back up. I have run the insta pot and now my fridge with this single battery, so I am very encouraged with what I see.
 
Thanks for sharing! I'm also thinking about getting this battery... Which model of the BMS did you get?
 
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This is the one I got. Hard to tell if it is working as the cell are so well balanced when it came.

The BMS is cutting off too soon, so I have bypassed the BMS and I am using the inverter direct to the battery as the inverter I have has a cut off that I have tested as working.

My plan is to let the Solar Charge controller take care of over charging, and the inverter take care of under charging. and the BMS to keep the cells balanced.

I live in Florida so getting below freezing is a rare event.
 
As I think about it, I could test the BMS on some 18650 cells just to see if it works.
 
I am about to buy this for my 36v Golf Cart!

How do you charge the system? Do you think a 36v 15a charger will work? What gauge wires are needed for hookups?

Thanks for the info on the BMS, I think I will purchase the same.
 
You need to do your homework to make sure you do NOT over charge the battery, or charge when freezing, or over discharge the battery.

I use an outback charge controller that allows me to set the top voltage manually I push over 55 amps to this battery now with my solar panels.

Mind you I have chosen this route because it makes sense to me.

Gauge of wire depends on your load, I went to 2 gauge wire to my 36 v inverter.

I did consider that I could use this in a golf cart if I wanted, Please post your progress if you decide to go that way.
 
Just ordered 6 of these for an EV conversion, happy to see people are getting good results from them. Thank you!
 
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This is the one I got. Hard to tell if it is working as the cell are so well balanced when it came.

The BMS is cutting off too soon, so I have bypassed the BMS and I am using the inverter direct to the battery as the inverter I have has a cut off that I have tested as working.

My plan is to let the Solar Charge controller take care of over charging, and the inverter take care of under charging. and the BMS to keep the cells balanced.

I live in Florida so getting below freezing is a rare event.

Good point... looks like the BMS would cut off at 3.0V while the battery can go down to 2.8V.

Sounds like for charging you also bypass BMS and connect the solar charge controller to the battery directly?
 
How is the battery working out? Did you do a capacity test on these. I'm considering getting these and convert them to a 48V system. Would you be able to post a closeup of the copper busbar. What are those 3 black screws holding anyways? Can they be used for the BMS lead? I just want to be more confident before dropping lots of $$ into this project. Thank you.
 
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