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Best system for RV

I am happy I went with 48v. I'm currently using the Victron IP22 to charge a small 75AH AGM battery for the 12v side. It works well, and the efficiency isn't terrible, but its definitely not ideal. The 48v made everything else so much easier to work with, from wire sizes, tools, etc. Hell I wouldn't be against going higher to 60 or 72v if the equipment was available.
 
I have a pair of 6V 225ah FLA. I see no reason to remove them as they're in an unheated dedicated compartment that really doesn't give me any extra usable space.

They are 5 years old. Still going strong but I thought when replacement time comes I may opt for AGM replacements due to faster charging and eliminate the venting system. I could gain a little outside storage above the batteries if not for those venting hoses.

I don't draw much on the 12V stuff. Lights are minimal. The furnace fan is likely the biggest draw.

I think they installed that much capacity for moving about which is something I don't do anymore. Jacks up and down, slides in and out, running the fridge on 12V while moving.



Most of that doesn't come into play while stationary. I haven't measured but can hear when the OEM converter fan engages. And it doesn't come on very often. Mostly on cold winter days when the furnace runs often.

I only run the power awning and roof fans occasional in warmer seasons.

It was your thread that me look into the IP22, @Lt.Dan . I hope it works out on my build as well.
 
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It was your thread that me look into the IP22, @Lt.Dan . I hoping it works out on my build as well.
The IP22 is working great. I have plugged it in and been able to totally forget about it. It keeps the small AGM battery a nice storage voltage of 13.2v and occasionally will allow discharge/charge to keep it healthy. 10/10 would buy again.
 
This is about the best 48->12 dc2dc solution I can find.
Orion-Tr48/12-9 (110W)
It would keep the lights on but not a whole lot more.
Victron, Samlex and/or Sterling should address this issue as more RVs go to 48 volts.
For my 35’ fifth wheel, I think that could be good for the 12 volt side. A lot of the high amperage items like the 50 amp leveling jacks get used so little the battery will charge it quickly with the 110 watts.

The one thing it would not keep up with is the normal 9 amp propane blower motor on a cold night. If I were to stay on below freezing temps, I might wake up with a dead battery with the fan running so much.

I have had luck with VIctron’s 24-12 volt 70 amp Orion converter. I have done away with the 12 volt battery and just use the converter. I wish there was a 48 volt version of this Converter.
 
I originally wanted the 30a model for that reasoning @chrisski, but instead I bought the IP22 20a model, and my 12v appliances have a lot of idle draw, almost never less than 7-8a, and routinely 10-11a with all the lights, roof fans etc on. It is plenty to keep the battery charged with the propane furnace running all night. I can always rely on the 12v side being charged up and good to go.
 
That should be 30 amps each unless they can be paralleled. I can’t speak to that model but my Victron Orion 24/12/70 can be paralleled.
Says "all models can be paralleled" in the data sheet. Same goes for the IP22.
But it will cost close to $500 to do so. $400 for the IP22
 
This is about the best 48->12 dc2dc solution I can find.
Orion-Tr48/12-9 (110W)
It would keep the lights on but not a whole lot more.
Victron, Samlex and/or Sterling should address this issue as more RVs go to 48 volts.
Check your house converter -I was able to add an "IQ-LIFEPO Lithium-Iron Batteries Automatic Charge Controller for DLS Charger" to mine to keep 12V charging for a small 4s Lithium battery that runs my Jacks and misc. 12V items that were already in my 38' 5th wheel.
 
Whip out the measuring tape! A dozen rack mount batteries sounds great until you're sleeping in the kitchen and getting 1mpg dragging it around. :)
So true... great response.

It's a lot easier to find little 14" x 8" holes in the basement to tuck Battleborns into than essentially using up your entire basement for server rack size stuff, not to mention if you're in BFE and you lose a 12V Battleborn or similar drop in, it's a lot easier to fine a replacement 12V even lead acid to carry you through the freezing weekend till you get a replacement lithium, try finding a temporary replacement server rack battery at Walmart.
 
Most of the questions you have, I went through when building my RV. You can check out the link in my sig to see all the problems I had to overcome.
GREAT recommendation, the only thing that would make it better is if one of the items in your sig WERE ACTUALLY A LINK!!!!!!!!

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My build will be the two 12v Battleborns for the 12v needs. I will be selling the Samlex Evo 2224 AIO for the Samlex EVO 4248 split phase inverter. I already have a 24v battery I built from individual cells. I will be buying 8 more to complete one 48v 300ah battery. This will power my 120 needs. I will be mounting a Pioneer 12000btu mini split to replace the two monsters on the roof. After sealing the openings I will use Henry's Kool Koat to decrease the temperature of the roof. Eventually I will add solar which will help with power and keeping the sun from beating on the roof thus keeping the interior cooler. If needed I will build a second battery. Just to give you some ideas
 
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GREAT recommendation, the only thing that would make it better is if one of the items in your sig WERE ACTUALLY A LINK!!!!!!!!

View attachment 131473
Whoops. Back then it used to be in there. I must've removed it on accident when I changed it a long time ago.

Here is the link:
 
Whoops. Back then it used to be in there. I must've removed it on accident when I changed it a long time ago.

Here is the link:
Thanks.... will check it out, I'm doing a 43' long triple axle Keystone Fuzion.

PS: Love the white/black, it's gorgeous.

Jen
 
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Power requirements will rule this build. My 35’ fifth wheel uses nearly no power in the cooler months. When the propane heater blower motor comes on, the power requirements go up a lot.

If you want to run a single air conditioner, that is even more power. Will says in one of his videos for an RV air conditioner you need to fill your roof with panels and then have just about as many panels on the ground.

In my signature block, I have two links to Best Solar Panel for RV. I now have what may be enough solar to run a single 15 K BTI rooftop air conditioner 6 hours a day, but am waiting for warmer weather to try it.
So I've decided to add 400W of solar to my rig and have been researching my options. I know I want monocrystalline panels (rigid) and am going to use a Victron MPPT controller. I've looked at several panels and boy is it confusing so I thought I'd throw it out there and ask the group what they're using or what they've found to be a good panel to use? or what they've found after installing current panels as technology changes rapidly. Any input for my system design or recommendations will be greatly appreciated and read! Thank you!!!
 
So I've decided to add 400W of solar to my rig and have been researching my options. I know I want monocrystalline panels (rigid) and am going to use a Victron MPPT controller. I've looked at several panels and boy is it confusing so I thought I'd throw it out there and ask the group what they're using or what they've found to be a good panel to use? or what they've found after installing current panels as technology changes rapidly. Any input for my system design or recommendations will be greatly appreciated and read! Thank you!!!
I consider solar panels a commodity; basically not much of a difference for the panel for the price for an RV build.

More important is the size so they can fit on top of the RV without shade. I was on top of my RV with cardboard cutouts to see what fit the best.
 
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