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200amp Pass-through on Sol-Ark 12k via Smart Load 14

Xhumeka

Off-Grid'er
Joined
May 31, 2021
Messages
198
Location
Highland Grove, Ontario Canada
One of the reasons I was considering a Sol-Ark 15k over a 12k is because the 15k supports 200amp passthrough compared to the 12k's 63amp pass-through.

However, at the 24 minute, 13 second mark of this video, Tom Brennan states "we are working so that we can use the smart load 14 as an automatic disconnect switch for the 12k's" (and) "effectively have 200 amp passthrough with the 12k and still have 10 channels of load management"


I can't find much more information about this - can anyone provide further detail about this? A 12k is much easier to install (permit wise) here in Toronto but I really like the "whole home" idea of backup instead of using a critical load panel, so a 200 amp passthrough on a 12k (via smart-loads14) sounds like a good compromise.
 
Is there permitting issues with the 15k? Why is that? The 15k is what I plan on purchasing, but I’m also in the States.
 
Is there permitting issues with the 15k? Why is that? The 15k is what I plan on purchasing, but I’m also in the States.

In Ontario, there are separate rules/regulations for "Micro Generating Facilities" (ie under 10kW). Part of these rules stipulate that you cannot feed the grid more than 10kW, and the Sol-Ark 15k can go above that. Yes, you can limit via software setting - but apparently that may not be good enough to pass inspection (since the customer can easily modify this on purpose or by mistake). Here are the rules for Ontario if you're interested:

 
I listened to this twice, and you have to listen carefully because he's kinda fumbling through a question from the chat. I _think_ he's describing the Smartload 14 is like an automatic critical load panel, something that may shut off non-critical loads in the event of a grid outage? Not sure. I have a 12K and this is gonna make me dig into it more.

Having said that... if I had the choice today, I would definately get the 15K over the 12K. The price is practically the same and according to the spec sheet solves some of the issues I'm facing. The big one is the 4500w/4500w split between the legs. I worked around this by purchasing an $800 Victron Autotransformer, roughly the price difference between the 12k and 15k.
 
Why do you need 200 amps on a backup?

200 amp main with Sub panel off the main feed or 200 amp main panel with backup panel seems the better route.
 
I listened to this twice, and you have to listen carefully because he's kinda fumbling through a question from the chat. I _think_ he's describing the Smartload 14 is like an automatic critical load panel, something that may shut off non-critical loads in the event of a grid outage? Not sure. I have a 12K and this is gonna make me dig into it more.

Having said that... if I had the choice today, I would definately get the 15K over the 12K. The price is practically the same and according to the spec sheet solves some of the issues I'm facing. The big one is the 4500w/4500w split between the legs. I worked around this by purchasing an $800 Victron Autotransformer, roughly the price difference between the 12k and 15k.
I've been struggling with this 120v leg load balancing too. Doesn't the 15k have the same problem but at a 6000w/6000w level? I'll have to study the spec sheet more carefully. And isn't a Victron auto-transformer too small, limited to just 32 amps on the neutral? My SunGoldPower 12k inverter has a huge transformer built-in (why it's 200 pounds!) and it's been bulletproof, able to run my whole house with no problem, never a glitch. This is my only concern in moving over to the 15k Sol-Ark. I guess I could make sure all my heavy loads continue to be 240v units and save the 120v legs for the smaller stuff. BTW, I'm moving to the Sol-Ark to take my system on-grid.
 
I had the same concerns, which is why I went with the 100amp model AT. Way overkill, but it was only like $100 more. I figured if this saved me from having to buy another $7K inverter we're doing good.

I haven't looked at the 15k specs and don't wanna know to avoid buyer's remorse :p
 
So far, my 12K / 8KPV + three EG4 48V bats is handling my 4T Rheem heat pump easily after I installed an EasyStart on the compressor.
Just want to get closed comm going to accurately handle the bats.
Edit......the diagram I uploaded earlier was incorrect. See the corrected version below.
An additional advantage of doing it this way is IF the Sol-Ark, system, etc,,, should fail in any
way, the entire system can be switched back to conventional by switching two breakers.
AND the two breakers are mechanically prohibited from being turned on simultaneously.
-TB
 

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So far, my 12K / 8KPV + three EG4 48V bats is handling my 4T Rheem heat pump easily after I installed an EasyStart on the compressor.
Just want to get closed comm going to accurately handle the bats.
-TB
How many BTUs is your heat pump?
 
Panels are mounted on the roof of my hangar-home just SW of Dallas/FtWorth.
Needless to say, so far I am very pleased with the way my system is performing
and my electric bill is ZERO. I am simply using the grid tie as a backup.
I just want to get comm to the EG4s working to optimize battery life.
 

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Panels are mounted on the roof of my hangar-home just SW of Dallas/FtWorth.
This looks great. I'm thinking of using multiple smaller heat pumps so I can manage draw better... like 9k or 12k units with inverter compressors. If we're trying to sleep through a hot night (they do happen) we can just hit the bedroom with AC using a small compressor. I have 30kWh of batteries and thinking of going to 40 or 50. I'm in a very temperate area on the coast of N. Cal. so nowhere near your needs.
I assume that wicked-cool graph is from the Sol-Ark monitoring software.
 
I built this home about three years ago and would have installed either a ducted
or ceiling cassette minisplit/inverter AC system, OR a geothermal loop under the foundation slab
had I planned better. This would have been a far superior and efficient system to the
conventional one that I used. Either way I feel very fortunate that things worked out as well
as they did...

-TB
 
I built this home about three years ago and would have installed either a ducted
or ceiling cassette minisplit/inverter AC system, OR a geothermal loop under the foundation slab
had I planned better. This would have been a far superior and efficient system to the
conventional one that I used. Either way I feel very fortunate that things worked out as well
as they did...

-TB
I agree on the ducted/ceiling option. Those huge "wall warts" are so ugly. And a geo loop would have been great on my house too. But that was 15 years ago, long before thinking about any of this. I guess we're getting off topic here. I just like to get info wherever I can. Thanks!
 
I built this home about three years ago and would have installed either a ducted
or ceiling cassette minisplit/inverter AC system, OR a geothermal loop under the foundation slab
had I planned better. This would have been a far superior and efficient system to the
conventional one that I used. Either way I feel very fortunate that things worked out as well
as they did...

-TB
I'm surprised you only have 3 EG4 (so around 15kw?). How long can you run your whole house with that 4T unit? I'm looking into building a similar system.
 
I'm surprised you only have 3 EG4 (so around 15kw?). How long can you run your whole house with that 4T unit? I'm looking into building a similar system.
Based on his usage image posted above, it looks like he started pulling grid power at around 4:30AM.
 
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