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LG Chem Batteries from Battery Hookup. 5.94 KWh

I don't know how this forum works, but I too am interested in the 36v 5.94 kWh battery from battery hookup that mart hale has been posting about. I want to use it for a van build rather than a golf cart. My question/concern is can I use 36v to then power a 24v/12v system or can I create a 36v system and use it with a converter and would 3 12v solar panels charge it if wired in series?
 
After 3 trips to Lowes I finally figured out the the nut size on the terminals is a M6 Metric, not 1/4 inch terminals as I first thought :) one of those gotcha's....
 
How is the battery working out? Did you do a capacity test on these. I'm considering getting these and convert them to a 48V system. Would you be able to post a closeup of the copper busbar. What are those 3 black screws holding anyways? Can they be used for the BMS lead? I just want to be more confident before dropping lots of $$ into this project. Thank you.
what is the battery capacity pls. thank


Rated energy 5.94 KWh
 
I don't know how this forum works, but I too am interested in the 36v 5.94 kWh battery from battery hookup that mart hale has been posting about. I want to use it for a van build rather than a golf cart. My question/concern is can I use 36v to then power a 24v/12v system or can I create a 36v system and use it with a converter and would 3 12v solar panels charge it if wired in series?


You will need a 36 V inverter, and a charge controller that will allow you to do custom charging to max voltages, my out back controllers allow for that. My charge controller is MPPT , I am not sure if 3 12 V solar panels would match what this system needs.
 
How is the battery working out? Did you do a capacity test on these. I'm considering getting these and convert them to a 48V system. Would you be able to post a closeup of the copper busbar. What are those 3 black screws holding anyways? Can they be used for the BMS lead? I just want to be more confident before dropping lots of $$ into this project. Thank you.

For me and my needs is is working great. I would not run a table saw with my inverter, but it has been running my fridge and Insta pot about 1200 - 1400 watts, bread machine just fine.
 
Copper Buss bar I drilled holes for my zip ties so I could zip tie the bms on the battery.
 

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Each junction of the batteries I drilled a hole then run my wire thru that hole then soldered the wires on for the BMS.
 
Thank you for the pictures. I ordered a few of these modules, will see if I can make these into 48V.
 
Thank you for the pictures. I ordered a few of these modules, will see if I can make these into 48V.
I watched a video on youtube showing a guy putting them together. from what I understand its really difficult to take apart and even harder to reconfigure. it would be easier to run 4 in series (40s) then do a split pack and run an external parallel for (4p) 48v.
 
I watched a video on youtube showing a guy putting them together. from what I understand its really difficult to take apart and even harder to reconfigure. it would be easier to run 4 in series (40s) then do a split pack and run an external parallel for (4p) 48v.
Can you include a link to the Youtube. Thanks
 
I believe this is probably the video he's referencing....an extremely thorough two-hour teardown and rebuild of the Bolt battery system.

Here are links to the sections where he explains the physical construction and arrangement of the cell groups within each module.



Considering the module's physical layout and the fact that the internal busbar connections are all welded and riveted rather than bolted, I think most people would agree that these modules are a poor candidate for reconfiguration.
 
I have had problems with the Daly BMS... Testing one of these -> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_


After killing one of the BMS, ( not pre charging the inverter ) I ordered another BMS, when it arrived and I plugged it in it sparked right away when I put the cable leads in ( not a good day ) I double checked and yes it was wired correctly, and I plugged in another BMS and this worked but actually pulled the battery out of ballance. I may have bad wires that I added to the BMS cable giving resistance to the wire thus giving wrong voltage amount to the BMS. I think I will test resistance on each of the wires, I might have bad solder joints?

What has me puzzled is the first batter I put in with the daly is working like a champ and the Daley BMS I added with that one works fine.
 
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For those who want to know the nuts that go on the terminals are 6M. Took me a few trips to the hardware store to figure that out.
 
I believe this is probably the video he's referencing....an extremely thorough two-hour teardown and rebuild of the Bolt battery system.

Here are links to the sections where he explains the physical construction and arrangement of the cell groups within each module.



Considering the module's physical layout and the fact that the internal busbar connections are all welded and riveted rather than bolted, I think most people would agree that these modules are a poor candidate for reconfiguration.

Those look similar, but I dont think those are the same modules that these are.
 
Well found why my 2nd bms would not work, I had bad solder joints on some of the wires from the BMS to the battery cells. I found that if I tested the ohms from the wire to the battery connector on each wire this showed me straight away where the bad connection was. Getting a good solder connection is very tricky, I believe I would be better off using nuts washers with the wires.
 
Digging more into this Chevy EV battery I bought. I found the side panels pop off and I can see the packets ends can be seen with joints of copper. Thinking I may have to drill, then use a rivet to attach my BMS wires. Or.... I find a pinout of the connectors on the end. This is 5.94 KWH of battery. Small but HEAVY.


I bought one of these modules as well, how easy was it to clip off the side panels to show the connections? I tried unclipping mine and it’s giving a lot of resistance, I don’t want to snap them off completely.
 
Andrew, The side panels pop out you have to release each tab slowly before they come off.
 
Is there any idea on the potential cycle count these could have? The idea of potentially building a power wall, almost a Tesla 2's worth of power, if you get two of these for only $1,200 is VERY interesting.
 
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