RV10flyer
Solar Wizard
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2021
- Messages
- 1,198
At what outdoor temperature and indoor setpoint. 2 hrs between cycles?No, it ran at 1200w for about 2 hours at a time. Then shut off. Two hours later pulling 1200w again.
At what outdoor temperature and indoor setpoint. 2 hrs between cycles?No, it ran at 1200w for about 2 hours at a time. Then shut off. Two hours later pulling 1200w again.
What's handy about our system is that the ductwork is in my conditioned basement. If I have duct leaks, it's a good thing! I've got 2400 ft^2 up and 2400 down that is heated and cooled. 480m^2 total. Also the basement is surrounded by a 8' 2.5m wide hallway the entire way around that further insulates the house. The house has an 8' wide southern porch the entire way around and that hall way in basement is under the porch.Not OP but I dug out some info on ducted mini split project for some DMs
For a project last year, I was interested in the Fujitsu medium-static models. This is designed for concealed duct, I think custom designed for mini-split. Medium static means it can handle more ductwork than a low static model (albeit at a potential efficiency deficit, though efficiency needs to be considered holistically vs how much insulation is surrounding the ducts, sometimes you want high static to push it faster)
ARU12RGLX = 3100 - 19400 (BTU range heating)
Oops, this one is retired. Here is the product line.
Medium Static Pressure Duct - AIRSTAGE SINGLE-ROOM MINI-SPLIT SYSTEMS - Residential - FUJITSU GENERAL United States & Canada
Medium Static Pressure Duct - AIRSTAGE SINGLE-ROOM MINI-SPLIT SYSTEMS - Residential - FUJITSU GENERAL United States & Canadawww.fujitsu-general.com
Next week I'm getting a Mitsubishi multi-position air handler installed
SVZ-KP36NA_SUZ-KA36NA2
IIRC this is a mid and high static unit. It is designed to drop into air handler or furnace for a whole house.
We keep the indoor at 72F (21C).... outside temp was 14F -10C ... the coldest it's even been here.At what outdoor temperature and indoor setpoint. 2 hrs between cycles?
. For example, the utility provider doesn't care about the tank temp... they just want to command the unit to lower the setpoint or shut off for an hour.
What I'm not sure of is can you get to all the woolybooger details via the demand control device? I think not.... but a ESP32 querying modbus and relaying to MQTT would be interesting.Hmm, OK, since I haven't gotten a HPWH yet I don't have details on this either, except on the broad strokes of how I would approach it.
Apart from CTA-2045 I also considered digging into the WiFi protocol as an alternative. I believe all of the HPWH on the market have a smart controller on it.
And the workflows to investigate were to get gentle demand response / energy management. I don't want to slam the compressor shut by cutting power to the HPWH using a relay, I'd rather just tell it to turn off resistive heat. This kind of control is *supposed* to be what that smart app is for.
Wow, amazing. I may have to get a mini-split for next winter.Indeed..... I have an ICF house.... very efficient.
I know... don't really care. But I have edited it now.There's some names on this, identifying info hasn't been scrubbed
What I'm not sure of is can you get to all the woolybooger details via the demand control device? I think not.... but a ESP32 querying modbus and relaying to MQTT would be interesting.
It's probably been done, let me google for CTA-2045 and Home Assistant.
I know these get grumpy if they think an element is open circuit, but I wonder if you can rewire them into series to get 1125w of warming.I was actually also considering a swap of 4500 to 2250 on resistive when I get mine
MODBUS is easy... talk to it over a serial link..... whats more challenging is knowing which register does what and how they are scaled.It's probably been done, let me google for CTA-2045 and Home Assistant.
In general if the serial bus is this easy to decode, it's probably been done.
In case you were unaware, the serial control bus on Mitsubishi has been decoded a while back (it's just a basic TX/RX pair) and there is ESP software and an easy-ish to buy dongle that you can get. The register set (read/write) is pretty good.
I know these get grumpy if they think an element is open circuit, but I wonder if you can rewire them into series to get 1125w of warming.