diy solar

diy solar

New Combiner and I need to Lengthen/Splice my PV wire

Decided to go with these inside appropriate box types for wire transitions (solar wire to MC) and splices. Seemed simple enough, reusable and designed for the purpose.

Screenshot_2023-05-24-07-59-46-409.jpg
 
Decided to go with these inside appropriate box types for wire transitions (solar wire to MC) and splices. Seemed simple enough, reusable and designed for the purpose.

View attachment 150363
Thats what I just installed monday.

I bought that one you linked first and they sent a box of 50 yellow connectors with no rail or ends. I'm sending it back.

I ordered again and noticed this one :


71O6RMggxPL._SL1120_.jpg


It was $1 cheaper and had a ton more stuff to it. I likes it :)
 
I could not find kits for the DK6N only the DK4N. The DK6N does 8 awg, the DK4N does not. I needed up to 8 awg
 
I could not find kits for the DK6N only the DK4N. The DK6N does 8 awg, the DK4N does not. I needed up to 8 awg
I got lucky on this since I was combining the small wires from the power supply on the orange pi 3 lts thats running solar assistant and the power for the surveillance cameras and such.

I may get a larger one for the larger stuff but I crimped that stuff already and did the traditional bus bars for those.
 
Decided to go with these inside appropriate box types for wire transitions (solar wire to MC) and splices. Seemed simple enough, reusable and designed for the purpose.
Right approach, as long as you check on them periodically. Personally I have seen miserable safety results in the past with crimp or set-screw butt splices. The only thing we ever allowed was compression butt splices on 4/0 or larger; we replaced small wires.

Mechanical splices have a way of being forgotten and working themselves loose. This is especially true for connections that cycle from zero to a continuous >60% load daily.
 
Right approach, as long as you check on them periodically. Personally I have seen miserable safety results in the past with crimp or set-screw butt splices. The only thing we ever allowed was compression butt splices on 4/0 or larger; we replaced small wires.

Mechanical splices have a way of being forgotten and working themselves loose. This is especially true for connections that cycle from zero to a continuous >60% load daily.
I'm assuming "mechanical" also means the connection point at the breaker ?
 
Box and wire nuts are perfectly fine.
When I first came to the USA, wirenuts frightened me to death and made me laugh all at the same time but over the years I have come to appreciate them immensely. Done properly they are one of the safer connection methods available.
 
Box and wire nuts are perfectly fine.
When I first came to the USA, wirenuts frightened me to death and made me laugh all at the same time but over the years I have come to appreciate them immensely. Done properly they are one of the safer connection methods available.
Even for high voltage DC? (or does it AC / DC even matter)
 
I'm assuming "mechanical" also means the connection point at the breaker ?
The breaker connection is generally easier to inspect though. Few places inspect splices unless they have had a problem with them.
 
Even for high voltage DC? (or does it AC / DC even matter)
If they are made up properly it won't matter. But, if they are loose or have eccentric strain then internal arcing seems possible and higher risk with DC IMO. I don't think voltage matters much below 600V.
 
New combiner done. Splices (Dinkle Terminal Blocks) installed. All in steel boxes

IMG_20230621_111956.jpg

IMG_20230621_112034.jpg

IMG_20230621_113733.jpg
 
Needed to upgrade the Combiner because I am adding 2 more strings of 3 panels each to the 2 SCCs. Before I had 6 3s strings into 2 Midnite Solar 3 in / 1 out combiners with NO SPDs. Now I have a single 8 in 2 out combiners with both fuses and breakers on both the positive and negative with SPDs
 
Back
Top