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diy solar

This could be interesting

Oops, I should have clarified. Triggering sensor is easier when it is liquid. Using my hand to push raw sensor on ice or between two ice cubes was a pain. And it took a few minutes of waiting around.

Salt water is just easier to trigger the sensor. I dip it in water, and instant trigger. Ice was not as easy. Especially when threshold is lower than 32 degrees which is the case in quite a few BMS these days.

And never did I state that the salt would make it colder or change any other properties. I take salt water, put in freezer, take it out while it's a slushy/liquid state, stick in sensor. There was no other purpose other than time efficiency.
 
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The BMS you show in your pic looks different than the one linked. Is it a pic of the other side of it or something? It's the exact same unit you ordered?

It's the exact same unit. There might be differences between the 300A and 100A version; I have the 100A for testing and if this one performs well I'll get the 300A version. It also appears that the metal enclosure has been updated since the capacitors and some other electronics that are visible on the picture in the link are now hidden in the enclosure.
 
It's the exact same unit. There might be differences between the 300A and 100A version; I have the 100A for testing and if this one performs well I'll get the 300A version. It also appears that the metal enclosure has been updated since the capacitors and some other electronics that are visible on the picture in the link are now hidden in the enclosure.
Thanks for clarifying. Forgot to ask other question I had...is your unit strictly 16s, or can it do a range of cell configurations? I'm looking to do 14s. The data sheet appears to show a range, such as 14s-20s, similar to how the ANT BMS is set up.
 
Thanks for clarifying. Forgot to ask other question I had...is your unit strictly 16s, or can it do a range of cell configurations? I'm looking to do 14s. The data sheet appears to show a range, such as 14s-20s, similar to how the ANT BMS is set up.

It can do 20 cells total. They also have a version that can go up to 24. The 300A version is limited to 16.
You can put the actual number of cells in use through the app. The rest stays unconnected. I believe there is a minimum of 14 cells, but didn't check that.

Also, charging, discharging and balance functions can independently be enabled/disabled in the app. The only downside I found is the limited range of the bluetooth connection, probably because the whole metal enclosure. That said, it's nice to have a fully contained unit without a bluetooth module dangling around.
 
Just a FYI...
 
Just a FYI...
I thought this horse had already been beaten to death.
 
No, adding salt to water that doesn't contain ice doesn't magically decrease the water's temperature, however, adding salt to iced water will do so, by chemically stimulating the ice into melting "early", causing it to absorb the heat necessary to melt.
More horseplay ... here's a good video with the experimental proof:

 
More horseplay ... here's a good video with the experimental proof:

No offense, but that's a terrible video.
The first part where he added room temperature CaCl2 and the temperature rose, was likely due to the water absorbing the heat from the salts.
Next, he tries to tell us that you "dissolve" ice in salt water. The ice still melts as always when the temperature exceeds the melting point. Its just that the water then mixes with the water that already has the CaCl2 dissolved into it.
If you really want to go hog wild on this topic, check out what the slightest amount of contamination can do to affect an ice bath, read:
Reproducibility of the temperature of the ice point in routine
 
No offense, but that's a terrible video.
The first part where he added room temperature CaCl2 and the temperature rose, was likely due to the water absorbing the heat from the salts.
Next, he tries to tell us that you "dissolve" ice in salt water. The ice still melts as always when the temperature exceeds the melting point. Its just that the water then mixes with the water that already has the CaCl2 dissolved into it.
If you really want to go hog wild on this topic, check out what the slightest amount of contamination can do to affect an ice bath, read:
Reproducibility of the temperature of the ice point in routine

I thought this horse had already been beaten to death.
 
Is it dead yet? No, ok - another way to think about it is to realize that the ice you put into the water is not 32 degrees, it is much colder. In an ice bath, the water is 32 degrees because is maintained at its melting point. So with salt added, the melting point is lower, so the new ice bath simply stays at the new melting point.
 
I thought this horse had already been beaten to death.
And then some!
Is it dead yet? No, ok - another way to think about it is to realize that the ice you put into the water is not 32 degrees, it is much colder. In an ice bath, the water is 32 degrees because is maintained at its melting point. So with salt added, the melting point is lower, so the new ice bath simply stays at the new melting point.
Uhhh... Physics says nope!
I would be interested in the 300a model results, if you get that one!
I don't have a need for that much power yet. In a couple projects, I may be looking for some seriously high power stuff.
I'll definitely share lots of information if/when that one comes along!
 
Uhhh... Physics says nope!

I don't have a need for that much power yet. In a couple projects, I may be looking for some seriously high power stuff.
I'll definitely share lots of information if/when that one comes along!

Not sure what the "physics" issue is, but I vote for no more "beating". Thanks!

I just got an ANT 320a. I'd review it for a high amperage application, but I wouldn't send more than 75a through this thing, ha.
 
Cool, thanks! Non-mobile link is

(Aliexpress link - couldn't locate a non-mobile link for Alibaba.) It is also at the Dykbhuang Store on Aliexpress for a little more.

It balances at 190 mA, and I can make out 8 awg on the wire jackets, so about #6 equivalent wire coming in and out. The unit does look well made.
 
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