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Rumble?? You might google around about that site. It's pure toxicity.

Censorship is not equal to truth. Just about every forum has censorship, this one included, yet you'll find plenty of great/true information here. So, you can easily see how censorship is not the reference for truth, but why wouldn't someone know that already? That's a big red flag. What you're...

Battery Clearing House is doing 50% off all LifePo4 through the rest of this month and they have 95% capacity new 50ah prismatic cells for $12, which works out to 6.25 cells per kwh, which works out to $75, or $37.50 before shipping ($250min order).

It's the JK that has 2A active balancing. My hazy memory says there's something else about the JK that was a turnoff to me that made the wimpy JBD balancing a better trade.

Back on page three I posted a link to a document from the product info page. The Predator 4375 is not an inverter generator. When it stops charging, does the grid icon disappear? NOTE: Inverter-type generators are strongly recommended as they have cleaner output than conventional generators. If...

I'd be curious to know what happens with a different generator, ideally an inverter generator.

If links weren't allowed, that not-quite-a-link you posted would still be considered a link lol. The way I read it, they're trying to stop people from spamming sales of products that they have a direct/indirect interest in, probably because it creates a lower standard of information on a site...

I've heard it like this... There are two ways to do things: 1. The right way. 2. Again.

I might swap "demand" for "politely ask", but sure why not, what would be a reason not to make a simple inquiry with the manufacturer?

I'd get the Weize for a budget RV battery.

So 30w at 24hrs over two days is 1440wh. If you get lots of sun, you could round down to a 12v 100ah battery, but when it comes to the life and death of little critters, you probably want to round up to 2kwh. Divide by 5hrs of sun per day and you'd need 400w of solar panels. If you're looking...

That's cool you're using a low power computer. It's the best things you can do when it comes to building a solar kit, is to reduce your needs first. I'd round up to 100 watts for the computer and monitor, but how many hours does it need to run for? If it gets dark early, say 5pm, and you wanted...

Well I sure can't beat 22 years but just today I realized that the lead batteries in my little diy battery generator box are no newer than 2012 and they're still trucking along.

It's just a reference for you/me/him/anyone as a starting point to extrapolate running temps depending on various factors. If it's 100F outside and you have thousands of watts running through a small steel enclosure baking in the sun, you could easily see 180-200F+ and be into runaway meltdown...

Strange that Sunny Island page is gone just a few hours after you posted it. Here's the cached page: https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:YQC_j4WtjckJ:https://www.solar-electric.com/midnite-mnsi6048d-2cl150-pre-wired-sunny-island-system.html+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us

Musk himself is a loudmouth narcissist seeking attention on the internet. The world doesn't really need anymore of those. Tesla seems pretty cool. I wish they'd make something closer to a Civic than a Crown Vic though. At some point we should embrace efficiency, as opposed to the current...

Cheers Fran!

For folks that live in the west/southwest, consider an evaporative cooler. We just bought a Bonaire 5900 for the house and it's been pretty amazing, even on the lowest setting where it's only pulling about 220w.

Hmm, maybe not? I searched what was on the label, "Lenovo Thinkcentre M92p" and found this: https://www.lenovo.com/gb/en/desktops/thinkcentre/m-series-tiny/m92p/ Says there's a 65w adapter, but perhaps there are variants of the M92p?

Looks like it's $500 now.

One nice benefit of using two units for split phase is if one of them has issues, you can still get by with one unit.

The item on the left is the shunt.

It's a transfer switch: https://www.amazon.com/MOES-Controller-Automatic-Transfer-Switch/dp/B07F12RDZ2 Will has a video testing that model. Seems like it's not bad for the money.

I'm currently working on a solar trailer, so I've been looking at the defunct DC Solar trailers to see how they dealt with temps. They used uninsulated steel NEMA enclosures, most of them packed tight! Check out the images in the ads...

I think it looks pretty sweet!

Well, nothing wrong with reading the tag, but it looks like there are bigger models and I see the numbers now on the label. Looks like it's 8a at 120v, so.....yikes. I'd get a different computer. It would save quite a bit of money over trying to build a solar kit to power it.

Interested to hear about this too, since some of the MPP Solar AIO's are a tremendous value, if not for the wimpy PV input and charge rate.

All good as long as it works! I ordered from Watts247. Don't forget code WPDIYSOLAR for 2% off.

Yep those, definitely not plug-and-play grade, some sweat required. But! When you need that rock bottom price point and are willing to trade effort to get it, it's always nice to have the option. They look to be these: https://eu.nkon.nl/ace-battery-26148129-fe-50-lifepo4-3-2v-50ah.html And...

51.2v? But, technically we don't know the chemistry yet.

You could stick with 12v if your use is low. If it's just a few lights and a laptop and a refrigerated cooler, then there's maybe no real reason to move up.

They would probably say something like, "WHAT R U DOING?!?" lol.

Well that's odd, it looks like there are two different specs on Amazon, an 80a/150v for $335.59 and an 80a/200v with some accessories for $428.99. I ordered the Hybrid LV2424 from Watts247 yesterday, but am not counting out the EPever, because I'll have an extra panel for another project...

Right on, that doesn't sound bad at all. I like the Growatt and don't know much about the MPP. Were you looking at the 5k plus transformer to get the higher PV voltage than going with the 6k with built-in xfmr?

I wouldn't feel a pressing need to go to 24v for that. As acdoc mentioned, the DC side at up to 200a is no joke. You'll want 4/0 wire, which isn't all that bad at $125 for 10ft of red and 10ft of black, then figure another $75 for proper lugs and crimper. Realistically, you won't be seeing 200a...

You must be new to your area? I'm not nearly as remote as Northern Alberta, but when we moved rural, my environment helped me readjust my expectations pretty quick. Not being able to get the same deals as someone in a populated area comes with rural life. But, you should call one of the places...

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/mpp-solar-gfci-ac-input.7596/ https://diysolarforum.com/threads/battery-charger-tripping-gfci.19049/

Yeah I'm not seeing the need. You can certainly do it if you're wanting to, because you'd have better expandability at 24v, but I'm not sure I would. There's something to be said for 12v systems, like being able to get by using local parts from the auto parts store or home depot in a pinch.

Just ordered a JBD BMS from Current Connected at 2:18pm and received a tracking number at 3:12pm. This is nuts.

I wouldn't use a charger through a charger. I made a few small battery generators and just have a separate XT60 harness tied directly to the battery for charging. I'd think it's fine to use a dc power supply for charging through the solar input though. Not sure on the fuse size, but those cells...

I like this video quite a bit as an intro to thinking about the flow of things:

Folks always like to work in reverse, starting with what you want to power and go from there. All the basic formulas and general thought processes are designed around that. Even though you can design around the panels, or design around a budget and let the power be what it will be, I still think...

Are the posts on these known to break? Be careful with that huge crowfoot. Manufacturers use various techniques to keep people from overtightening things, like putting a small 8mm head on an M8 thread, because using a small tool forces lighter torque and that 35mm crowfoot is a large tool on a...

What are the panels specs and series/parallel configuration?

Just ordered one yesterday for $675 to my door.

Heard back from the "Wate Official Store" and they said it's the same as the "Wate Charger Store", so anyone coming across this can check them both to possibly save a few bucks. I also asked what the other potentiometers do and they said "SVR3 voltage, SVR2 current, SVR1 stops the current"...

I hear ya, just can't really sit idle on the project for up to three weeks. I wanted the JK, but ended up ordering the JBD from Current Connected and had a tracking number in less than an hour and they're just one state over. Tough to beat. I may order a JK for another project that's less pressing.

Aren't both of these settings only for reporting, or do they affect when the BMS disconnects? I wouldn't think they affect when the BMS disconnects, because we have the trigger/release settings on the following page.

So you're estimating, the 5kw panels are outputting 3kw over five hours, and you want to know if it's possible to *not* have your batteries fully charged in that amount of time, assuming that you're not drawing from the system in the interim and also assuming the batteries are fully discharged...

Much of Florida has such a high water table that you can get away with the little above ground pump. You could go deep if you needed a huge draw down for ag purposes and had a slow recharge time, but really a 1.5hp isn't very big and probably could never draw down faster than 485ft can recharge...

With the five batteries wired in parallel, that would be a 250a charge rate, but you always wants to back it down a bit from max charge rates, plus you're getting into some big wires. I dunno about what the dealer is saying, something is wrong in there somewhere. Either he's not very well...

I ordered five of the 445w version of these from SanTan Solar, which I had planned to use with this, but now they're out of stock until October, which isn't going to help much for summer fire outages, plus a budget change is forcing a 24v setup, so I need to put something together sooner, even...

Never said that "defining a problem someone wants to solve first" is working in the reverse. That's such incredibly broad language. When people think about where electricity comes from, from the power plant all the way to the vacuum cleaner, the very last item is the vacuum cleaner. But, you...

Was referring to the DC-DC converter for using a 24v battery to power your 12v devices. You connect your 24v battery to it and then power your 12v devices from it. For a DC charger, that's just done with your solar charge controller, so your solar panels connect to your charge controller, then...

It's backwards in their spec.

You might be able to save some space by going with new panels, like two of their 390w could end up being about the same output as what those four used panels are putting out. You'll need a DC-DC converter, Victon makes a nice one. I'd keep the vehicle's 12v system separate from anything you're...

Right on. I also did the same thing in my reply at first, thinking for some reason that it was four batteries, but it's actually five, so technically up to 250a.

Sounds like you sized your battery for three days of autonomy? And it sounds like your numbers are for the day-to-day, whereas the numbers I posted were more for worst-case? Maybe you don't need the worst-case charge controller, but I'd give yourself some headroom over the day-to-day use to...

The charge controller is connected directly to the inverter and DC distribution?

48.9v open circuit, which is 146.7v on a 150v controller, plus each panel could be over 500w with snow on the ground, so two panels would be the way to go with that model. It's about the cost of two Victron 75/15's, so no real economic gain there, but you could go to the 80a version and would be...

I had not seen that, thanks for linking it. They call out for the 100/20, which would clearly be safe. It's $40 more, so not a ton more, but also not nothing if buying several. As a bonus, it does have the benefit of 48v expandability.

Kinda leaving a whole panel on the table though? These things are big!

Northern California?

Yes but at the same time, I want to spend/build efficiently. If I were to use that EPever, I'd rather buy two and use two panels with each controller and charge in parallel, which also works just fine to "baby step" my way there if I want to start with one, so that's cool, but what I wouldn't do...

I don't know, maybe not..? My brain defaults to an arrangement more like this:

So I think the EPever point comes down to this, because the prices work out roughly similar, would you rather have a Victron and be closer to the max current, or have an EPever and be well within max current? And using the 2s2p configuration, you would be charging at max on the EPever.

Does anyone happen to know if there's a place to buy JK in the US?

Too broad, because a lot of people are trying to design their power source first and sorting out that design their first problem. It's natural to think of things that way, because you're building the solar system, not the vacuum cleaner. That's why I really like that Will Prowse video above...

East of Fresno'ish? Pretty cool panel mount. Is it fixed? These days that like a grand in unistrut! :p

I think yes on the battery charging/integration, but I think you generally want your BMS to trip last. I don't think it's good for your BMS if the breaker trips under full load. Perhaps dropping down to an 80a BMS is a better way to go. Someone else will need to chime in. As for the roof mount...

Old thread, but I've got a bajillion of these things and have been building 24V modules in ammo cans, assembling everything via Weller D650. It works great.

Right on, that's roughly my plan for tracking as well.

Is it really 15s? Either way, I'd take the rack.

It looks like another rebrand? PV wattage is a little low, PV input voltage is a little low, but what are your panels? You could use three of these in parallel and that wouldn't be too bad. You also don't have to run your fridge 24hrs. We've had power outages for close to two weeks before and...

I know this is old, but how did this charger work out? I'm in the same boat, not wanting to charge to 3.65V, so being able to tune the output would be great. Did you ever find what the other pots are for?

I'll have to chew on that for a bit. I know I'm more comfortable being within the max spec on anything, but I know that when I want to get close to the max spec, I want the higher quality item. Interestingly, the Victron calculator pushed me to the 100/20, even though the 75/15 is within spec...

That's still not too bad, basically just a $200 400w panel away from changing "probably not" to "probably could". Plus, while clouds might mean reduced solar output, it also probably means reduced need for that solar output.

This may have some relevant info: https://www.mppsolar.com/v3/catalogs/generator%20requirement.pdf Also, the 4375 isn't listed under inverter generators.

Everybody seems to love the Overkill BMS... https://overkillsolar.com/product-category/24vbms/

Do you know where you can see pricing for the pumps? Their website asks thirty questions only to find out they want to sell a full kit.

I think we're on the same page, you're wondering what happens when you parallel various make/model/size PV/SCC and PV/AIO setups onto the same battery bank? (edit: oops ignore, mistook you for op)

I hear you, but with many chinese companies, recourse plays heavily into the formula. With your company, you're probably solid enough that your customers have recourse for a decent amount of time through a warranty period, which you honor, and maybe even some good faith warranty beyond the...

That's great news, what an excellent little piece of information. It's baffling more sellers don't advertise when they have this feature. I think I'm going to order a 29.2V version and 58.4V version, both in 5A. I suppose I should order one to test out, but I hate the 10-14 day lag. And just to...

Agree with the above. Lifepo4 can charge at .5c, so each 100ah battery can be charged at up to 50a, or 100a total when in parallel, but the charger is only good for up to 40a and you should probably avoid running any component at max. I'd want something that can pour the coals to it. The Growatt...

'They said it was wired wrong.' 'They didn't say it was wired wrong.' Kinda stopped worrying about it right there. But, I hope the Growatts work out well. The 48120 seems like a great way to get 100a charging at an awesome price.

I'd want to know a little more about your well pump. If you're in Florida or someplace like that where you get to use those cool little surface pumps, then it's not a problem, but if you have some older 2hp+ pump set at 300ft, then the starting current is going to be significant. Currently, we...

Try this video and plug in your numbers (30 watts, 24 hours, 2 days autonomy or more/less depending on your area) and see what you come up with. I'll try the same here in a little bit..

The best thing you can do when designing a solar system is to start by swapping old power hungry equipment for newer/smaller and more efficient devices, in addition to rethinking what is actually needed. That is usually money well spent.

Also depends on the well pump. I have a new Grudfos 10SQ07-240-230V on the shelf ready to install this summer, to replace the old-school-no-electronics-million-amp-on-startup pump. With the new pump, there's a bunch of smart electronics going on, dry run protection, overload protection...

Well we know lithium ion has a different nominal voltage from lithium phosphate, then sla/agm is listed at 2v per cell, which means a 48v sla battery is 48v nominal. Just following along the anal retentive lines and to correct the 51.6v. ;)

For sure I'd feel best ordering from the Hankzor store. I did find "Eel Battery US" on Amazon that looks good, but with a 2-3 week lead time, they're clearly in China just the same.

Maybe unland the earth ground while the generator is on the plywood and carefully see if you can measure voltage between the generator chassis and earth ground cable.