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I am looking to install 2-yingli 240 watt panels on a work trailer to power lighting, powered jack, and a slew of tool battery charging. The panels are 65"x42"ish i think and It is a 10 foot enclosed aluminum work trailer. My question is... What is the best way to secure the panels to the roof...

I am pretty handy-capable and able to study up on YouTube, but I don't have the tools needed. Probably cost just as much to have installer take care of it

It is in fact a '04 Ford f150. It will probably be connected more often then not, but if that's an issue I could always just unplug it when I park. Does the alternator charge up your trailer battery?

I'm a little confused, these breakers are only rated for DC. What other options do I have? Like the mcb breakers I have from my panels to the charge controllers? But I wouldn't be able to mount my 4/0 wire to that style??

Sorry I forgot you mentioned filing and seeing copper robbob, but all in all I guess it turned out to be brass after all😳. This concerns me that litime emailed Liam and told him the bussbars are copper plated with silver, when in fact robbob did the real world test and found a brass interior...

It's a 40a scc but I see where the math makes 45.8amps..Weird.. Wouldn't a buck converter or similar device convert the volts to amps? Without figuring in losses and loose estimations, my idea is this... 45amps@24v come out The scc into a 24vto12v converter and outputs 90amps@12v to the...

I am guessing it will be near impossible to keep my shunt calibrated lol

I know it's normal for wires to get warm under load but how hot is too hot? I've seen Temps in my setup reach 125°f at the inverter junction.

Holy link size😅😭

Thanks, I just edited my post and included the pic. Thanks man lol. I think everyone is on the same page. That is precisely what I'm asking is what size the "main" fuse in between the inverter and battery bank should be, given my wire guage size and my load needs. That being said, I'm still...

???? I tried to move up, but the the powers that be (pun intended) chased me back to 12v? And, yes I intend on staying below 2400watts to not exceed 80% of the 3kw continous rating of the inverter.. so... 300amp fuse?

Trade batteries from your shop? Or if your shop is supplied with 120v just use a battery charger

I'm not seeing the actual process how this works. The video is very vague and the article is very repetitive in saying salt and water is how it works but no schematics. We really do need to find a sustainable future to heating. Natural gas and other fuels are a huge burden on our planet.

Being indoors in a semi-controlled humidity environment, is it necessary to plate them? I thought the plating was for use in environments that have a high moisture content in the air

I figure; ◇Drain lifepo4 to 60% capacity ◇Turn off all dc breakers from solar panels ◇Turn off inverter ◇Set transfer switch to grid only ◇Tidy up space, and close up

First off Mabuhay!? 736 pesos for that!? Sorry to say but that is not a 1000watt panel. The size comparison to that charge controller is likely correct in the photo ito ang tama. I'm guessing that panel is probably a 5watt fit in your back pocket size especially considering 736php is...

Nowhere does it stage the mppt charge rate?

Bigger panel and frame than I thought. I'm digging the progress. Here's a sketchup of something I thought up of from your build. I am going to use 2-100 Watt panels to prototype it. I need to figure out a way to lock them in the open and closed position, also an adjustable angled leg

Duly noted??

Is there any problems with oversizing an mppt controller? Cons that come to mind: (Although I'm not sure if true) ●Higher power consumption (just afew watts?) ●lower current won't be recognized? Pros that come to mind (Again, I'm not sure if true) ●bigger components, so less loss...

Doesn't the stud become one with the fuse once you torque on the wire lug?

I did not mention the model. It is a Linex 350-500a https://www.amazon.com/LNEX-Portable-Automotive-Battery-10V-120V-Programmable/dp/B08V1VZNGH

This is great stuff, I'm sure that my bussbars are crap now, I mean they are literally the thickness of 2 dimes. The millimeter dimensions vary slightly from what you gave chatgpt (actual is 19mmX2.4mm) which without running the math or metal testing tells me that they are severely underrated...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CM639586? I enjoy watching all these immediately dissappear after everyone buys them😅😭

It seems like this should have been addressed before here, but I've been crawling around the forum looking, and can't seem to find anything. I live in michigan, and have a roof mounted system. Setting a 2 story ladder up to push broom snow off of my panels is not really an ideal situation on...

I suppose I have 4 in parallel too lol I'm wondering what would happen in series. Presuming there is a load, would they just shake hands at output and shed the combined voltage? Or would the voltage from Controller-A backfeed into the internals Of Controller-B?

Basically I'm wondering if solar panels degrade more if being used in the sun. I'm curious if it might be good or maybe even bad to store them.

I seen these on marketplace, seems like a steal to me, but I have 0 experience with raw cells. I have 4- 12v 200ah factory built batteries with a bms etc... And I'm familiar with fusing, wire guage, powering my AC appliances etc.. Is this a good deal? Listing says never been used. Am I in over...

I have a few of those, well similar anyhow. Which is great for a stand-off insulator! But I was referencing to the actual bus bar, can it be sheathed in rubber like a heavy guage wire? Maybe like do a liquid rubber dip, with spare lugs attached, then after it dries cut back and remove the lugs...

If you scroll thru the marketing graphics, one shows a rendering of what's inside. Are those "C" batteries?😅

Yes that graphic lol

As a roofer, I always use a chunk of 1x6. 2x6 can be a bit heavy for "flimsy" gutters. I temporarily tie off the ladder to the gutter spikes, but for a more permanent solution... Perhaps buy a nice thick ratchet strap, lag bolt the ratchet to one side of the fascia and then lag bolt the strap on...

I think it's $199 plus 20% discount at checkout

Yup checked my email and found this too. Fear mongering eh

Hi all its been a while. I have a 2.2kw array facing south. I tend to get 350ish and no more than 600ish watts during high production. Is that normal expectations?

Ambient temp was 70°f I didn't peek at my shunt to see the actual amp draw but I was pulling 2200 watts to inverter thru 5ft of 4/0 copper welding wire. The wire itself only gets lukewarm but the connection points on the fuse I saw at 125°f... which is pretty far off from 450°f lol

Thanks for the input guys :) Now, I'm wondering... how far should positive, and negative contacts be from eachother for no chance of arcing? Especially bussbars, because lugs/MRBF holder would possibly be even closer to the opposing bussbar. So, you are suggesting fusing both terminals, and...

https://powmr.com/products/all-in-one-inverter-charger-1600watt-220vac-12vdc I did find this, but was pondering if I could use 120v tools with it? Do I need to modify the output with some kind of step-down transformer, or can I just wire out 110v from it?

I'm curious to know this... I'm currently looking for a new 40a to over-do it or 60a to way over-do it. Edit* And my budget is $100 lol

I have the same symptoms 😳

Thanks!

..and connect it to 4 paralelled fully charged batteries. What's the science?🤓

I have a hybrid on/off grid setup. I choose which circuits I want to run either on or off grid via transfer switch. Everything in my brain tells me it would be fine to continue to run light inverter loads while charging via grid. I was thinking maybe I might lose a little efficiency if I...