Recent content by David Pocock

I'm still completely happy with my Generation 3 123SmartBMS and Smart relays. If you have questions it is better to deal direct with 123 Electric rather than GWL. I've always had full answers within 24 hours.

I agree with Ampster. I didn't do any torquing until the M6 stud was sealed in with Loctite Red (just backed off 1/4 turn from the bottom) and dried. All the studs feel rock solid but, as said, the use of conductive and corrosion resistant Ox-gard meant I didn't have to torque them much. I'm not...

If you reduce the conduction area by going to 8mm studs and have then to use aluminium, it would seem simpler to me to stay with 6mm stainless studs and use Ox-gard which as well as being anti-corrosion is also a conductor. This would mean you can use a lower torque so the stress on the stud /...

The number of cells and the Vbalance is set by dip switches. If you have a 4S configuration then there is no switch to move for cell number. I moved one dip switch once in my set-up. V min, V max, T min, T max, Charge restart, Discharge restart, Capacity options and a choice of normal or...

See the size of wire that this guy needed to use, for example.

The dip switches are small and you do need magnification but I moved one dip switch once for Vbalance for 4S and that was it.

Wire was supplied with mine.

I have the 123SmartBMS. Yes, you do have to solder a wire to the board. This, surely, is a fairly basic electrical skill, mastered in about ten minutes on some scrap wire if you haven't done it before. People use very different sized prismatic cells which will have differing diameter taps on the...

Probably, if you can rely on the stainless steel stud to terminal connection but stainless steel (poor conductor) coated liberally with Loctite (no conductor) ... hmm. I'd prefer to ensure that conductivity doesn't rely on the stud.

I'm not planning to charge or discharge at high C rates. All the precautions are because of use in a marine environment with salty air and sustained bumpiness. By 'hot', I mean live. The case is positively charged and the blue plastic covering is easily damaged and represents the absolute...

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Short stainless studs with an allen key head are not expensive. The problem with stainless machine screws is that they can allow damp into the terminal between aluminium and stainless although Ox-gard would be good there too. Loctite prevents that damp getting in. The allen key head means you...

For a marine installation I used 30mm studs stainless M6 studs and cemented them in the aluminium terminals with Loctite. That should stop moisture getting in to set up galvanic corrosion. I have copper, aluminium and stainless stacked on the same terminal so after burnishing all contact points...

I'm sorry to be that guy, but you have used heat-shrink terminals but not heated the shrink to seal it to the cables.

Bottoms now with several coats of liquid tape. Definitely a job for outdoors - that stuff stinks! I've also touched up some nicks caused by putting the cells in an overly tight case. (Now sorted.) As previously said, any point of contact between case and cells and between cells will be lined...