Recent content by DJSmiley

In my experience, I would rephrase the text so any 8-year can understand it. Many people in CN speak/read limited to no English, or use translation apps. In my experience, keeping text simple and basic is more likely they can understand it. I've had examples in the past when dealing with...

To me that would indicate 280Ah batteries which are sold as 320Ah. That has been a common practice 'yeah they generally archieve 320Ah so we just sell them as 320'.. In reality, any decent cell reaches slightly over their rated capacity, especially at the first cycles. I would claim them to...

100/12 = 8.3A Add inverter losses and you're more like 10A. If the 100W is the load with an adapter (eg a laptop) the mains load will be higher, add 10-15% if the 100W is not the load on the input side of the device

In Europe, eg Pekaway and Tigerexped has them, both providing 100w On Ali, i they are limited to 65w but in reality more like 40W max, and a lot of them require 24V in order to output 20V usb pd. Only a few include a boost from 12V...

For EU, you might consider Nkon or GWL.

Agree, Mikrotik LHG (Especially the LHG LTE18) is a beast (LTE CAT18) but it for a fixed install. However if I understand the original poster, he wants to be remote, to get decent speed depending on the location. For a RV a bulky dish-like unit isn't the best option imho.

Use a modern router (with modern LTE CAT, so it can benefit from carrier aggregation which does make a lot of sense in more rural areas). Also, use a good external antenna. For a mobile setup a omni, eg a Poynting Mimo. For a stationary setup a directional antenna is even better, that allows...

Bin that breaker, thats one of the crappy ones. Replace with a proper fuse (And fuse near the batteries. There is no point of fusing the end of the wire). For the wires, I would upgrade to 16mm2 especially on a 1.5-2m length. (With a fuse at the begin of the wire). The inverter: Can't see the...

Which 40A circuit breaker? The issue your describing exactly looks like the ones I would expect from a crappy cheap breaker. Is it a genuine Bussman/Eaton/Bluesea or a cheap fake one? And which wire length/size? On a 50A MPPT I would run 16mm2 wire And which inverter? A REAL 4000W inverter...

To be honest, my fist assumption was you did something wrong. It wasn't untill I found the crappy Apexium manual to find out the mistakes you made were based on wrong information, and I don't think you can blame yourself for following a mfg manual. It's reasonable to assume a manual is...

Fully agree, I do recommend overpaneling, since the max of the panels is most of the time not archieved. There is a sensible limit to the amount of overpaneling. In the example I posted (3000Wp) thats not making sense (unless you want to charge with moonlight)... Generally, I wouldn't hesistate...

Yes, but you are limited in the current as well. PV input has limits for both voltage AND current. A MPPT works by tracking the maximium power point. This also can result in lowering the voltage to get a higher amps (20V x 5A is still more power than 40V / 2A).. thats the principe of a MPPT...

Both mistakes are not in the Seplos video: the PEM nut is facing backwards, not part of the circuit, and there is NO washer between busbar and fuse. (in their video the busbar is on top of the fuse, but that doesn't matter) Only advantage of the fuse on top is easier access when you need to...

Flip the busbar over, replace the fuse holder (a local autopart store might have a replacement fuse holder). alternatively you can remove 1 of the terminals and use that hole as entry for a wire, crimp a lug on it and connect it to the busbar from the BMS. (Wouldn't recommend that as final...

I think the busbar only has gotten very hot. Carefully clean, (very) gentle sand the contacts and if preferred renew heatshrink. I would try replacing the fuseholder and positive terminals (You can buy them separate, if I remember correctly they are Futronics connectors), or you can replace...