Recent content by Freqz

I have my current RV wired this way: 30A shore power goes to Victron 24/3000 which feeds a 50A sub panel with AC on a 20A circuit and and the old main panel on a 30A circuit. This way, I can use the multiplus to assist with batteries/solar when I’m drawing over 30A (or 15 or what ever I set it...

Looking to see if there is any interest in my diyBMS that is mostly complete. I have 50 cell modules and 2 controllers built. I’ll throw in the bajillion or so JST-PH pigtails I bought for the project and a few spare esp32 boards as well for $100. Some of the cell modules may need some rework...

you’d turn it on, turn it off— just like DC. It’d be prettier/cleaner if you did it at a zero crossing, sure. Id argue that pulsed DC has an AC component since it has desired frequency components outside of 0Hz but I’d also argue it’s not really important...what’s important is saving the...

Those are your typical ~280amp hour cells. I’d be interested in the song and dance you get when the capacity actually gets measured but not $654+shipping interested. That’s more than Amy was charging for her cells when I asked a coup,e of months ago and she was like 30% higher than the...

I was having a problem with stray strands/loose connections in my RV...I had run all stranded copper and I think some of that had moved just enough to be a problem over 3 years and 10s of thousands of miles. I pulled that stuff and reterminated everything that touches a lug in the inverter and...

Welp. They made it. FWIW, I ended up ordering PCBs for a DIYbms setup. Still waiting on a few bits and pieces. https://community.openenergymonitor.org/t/diybms-v4/

Move your house to Texas or lower elevations in Arizona or New Mexico and tell me how much energy you use.

I think that’s 3000kwhr... Made me go pull mine...LOTS of windows and it’s HOT in the summer. The sad part is this is a vast improvement from when we bought it: new windows, new ACs (x3!), added insulation where there was none, LED/CFL bulbs, etc.

+1. They’re bad but they ain’t that bad. It has something blocked or a leak or * something*.

Yep, but electricity (solar) is *much* easier now. Even putting 500 amp hours into your electrical system with a generator would be problematic (or obnoxious, at least)without high C rate lithium. 900Whr is less than 1/2 an hour with my charger or a little over an hour of solar in my current rig.

Yes, they’re shockingly inefficient— it’s essentially running a resistive heat element on electric only mode. If propane is easier to get than electricity they make sense but only then.

I think this is worth a total reset. Forget about what you have (for now) and worry about what you actually want to power and what your goals are. Let’s identify what you actually need vs. what you’re currently trying to power. Obviously, you’re underpaneled to run a water heater (most RVs...

No, I don’t think we agree on “efficient” here at all. It doesn’t matter to me which you use but you *did* ask for opinions.

Sigh. 130W is not “low power” in this context. That’s all. Will a PWM work? Absolutely! Would I use one in this application? Nope! Will you? Sure sounds like it.

Right and all the more reason to squeeze every watt possible from the system. But do whatever you like: if I were spending my money on a van setup, I’d spring the extra $40 or whatever on a budget MPPT— cheaper than a third panel that you don’t have room for anyway.