Recent content by Gurusi

After further troubleshooting it turns out the contactor on the water heater smart switch was faulty (making a whining noise when switched on). Traded out the Amazon/Chinese contactor for an Eaton 661099 and all is good.

Thanks for the links, I will buy some. Yep agreed an oscilloscope will be best (but I’m not considering buying) as not changing brightness could be a high spike or minimal change (meaning the promax is over sensitive)

I have watts set for daily checking, see attached but only shows a volt difference. I have the midnight solar ones for the PV inputs Do you have a link by chance for the digikey ones? And I will purchase to see if it works I will try the bulb. If there is no change dimming or brighter does...

It briefly clicks on and off within a second. But I don’t believe it has been actively protecting often as we haven’t been using the projector often. Unless it’s been protecting in standby

I’m guessing I would need an oscilloscope to know? Attached is a read out from my emporia app at times of cut off. I would rather add something to resolve the issue than take out a protective measure. Are you talking about these...

I installed it, all as should be neutral grounded etc. it’s running on a 15amp breaker with two other outlets that have nothing plugged into regularly. trading it out definitely solves the issue! As long as the “line fault” or the voltage drop doesn’t slowly wrecking the projector…

The resistive load made no difference; however I did confirm that the Panamax MIW-POWER-PRO-PFP is the culprit. I got on a ladder and checked the display on the outlet protector. When remotely turning off the hot tub the outlet protector briefly lit up with “line fault” and then the projector...

Yep, I think you have methods of resolve listed. I find the line conditioner the simplest and most protective for the projector. But it will be the most work in terms of drywalling and decorating to get it in there (which I hate!). I was looking at the Eaton 5P 5P750 750VA/600W 120V Tower Line...

Projector is direct from 120v. Unfortunately it’s the furthest point from the inverters with no direct DC line.

I think you may be correct with the load dump either spiking on return or maybe the sag causing shut down. I am apprehensive about lowering the element due to winter solar here and the need to heat fast when sunny. But May be a last resort solution. A surge suppressor is something I will...

Good to know, I was unsure if a soft start would be of benefit for the heater/hottub element. Currently I have smart switches on 240v contactors on both the water heater and hot tub heater so only one can be on a time. The strange thing is that turning on either large draw appliances doesn’t...

It is strange. Did you find a solution or just let the cameras power cycle?

Hey, so I currently have two LV6548’s in split phase powering my home with two 16s 280ah packs in parallel (off grid). Within the home I have two large loads which I switch remotely as needed. They are a hot tub and electric water heater. Both consume around 5000ws. I tested the inrush surge...

I ended up holding off. I built my own esp32 unit that allows Bluetooth through to home assistant (allowing monitoring away from home). But no options for control or direct communication. There was a jBD option that was open source, but it closed down for the Peter Board (see off grid garage...

Thanks for confirming. Just stumbled on a thread about the Maple inverters and 250v/500v variations. May avoid and go official MPP if possible.