I felt the same way until a few years ago. I bought a Tesla model 3, which combined with a gas SUV meet our families needs perfectly. A few thoughts:
-I love the feel of my Tesla and one pedal driving with regen is awesome
- you can save a lot of money IF you can charge at home. Using...
It's like miles vs miles per hour. If you drive you get it and if you don't, maybe not until you're informed of the difference.
I personally feel kilowatt-hour is perfectly descriptive and doesn't require a convoluted fix that the uninformed still wouldn't understand.
Are your batteries fully charged? That would explain low charging amps because the charger will only provide what the batteries require to obtain set voltage level. If they are fully charged, turn off the solar and power something with high draw (heater, hair dryer, etc) for a while, then...
I started looking at them on amazon, and even a 40w panel such as this one weighs over 3 lbs. Then I wondered how much time the panel would actually be in good sun to charge the batteries (likely little unless you took a break for a few hours mid-day just to charge) and the panels don't charge a...
If your current system has the inverter capacity to run the mini split, I see no reason to add another inverter to get 240v unless you have other needs for 240v. Why?
- added cost and complexity of adding 2nd inverter
- added drain on battery from 2nd inverter (you don't have a large amount of...
Thanks for the further comments. Will absolutely conduct an energy audit to size my system, and appreciate the reminder to size any 12V converter to the true voltage of the battery bank vs nominal. I'm really trying to anticipate how I would use the trailer and design the system to best meet...
I’m dreaming about the possibility of doing a full-size (28+ foot) cargo trailer to travel trailer conversion in a few years. A few reasons would be to build quality from scratch, better insulation, reduce likelihood of problems (solid water connections that are accessible, etc), no...
Agree with points made here, just wanted to highlighted these Victron's are 3000VA or 2400 Watts continuous at 25 degrees. So 20% lower than the 3000W statements here. Just something to consider when comparing inverter size to intended loads.
I'd love to see a 48V 5K 2x120V as that to me...
Yes, MPPT can produce more amps than provided by the panel. 9.32A is the max your panel will produce at approx 28.4 Volts (265 watts/9.32 Amps). Your MPPT will convert that to your set charging current (say 13.8V) at up to 19 Amps or so (265 Watts/13.8V). MPPT chargers must be sized for both...
Lookup charge controllers for 48v batteries. Different models will have different input voltage minimums and maximum. 74v would be perfect for a charge controller rated for up to 100v input.
BL: lookup specs on charge controllers
Exactly. Cargo trailer would already come with a small 12V battery to operate brake system, charged from the 7 pin. Intent would be to keep that in place and separate from the trailer interior battery bank.
P.s. don't buy anything until you have a solid handle on how solar charge controllers work and post more details on the size of the solar array you plan to install. Waiting may save you from wasting money.
I'll first admit I don't have first-hand experience with this (over paneling), but my understanding is the MPP will only use 18A per input even if it's receiving more. So my take is your second option is correct. May not be important since panels will typically produce less than full amps...
Agree, at these prices I'd use a 12v LFP for no worry about drain during storage. If I have roof space I may install a solar panel just for the 12v LFP.
There are more efficient units than the DIY ones. A few sites to peruse options, and you can check out manufacturer websites such as GREE, Mitsubishi, etc. As others said, COP will go down as temperatures lower.
https://www.minisplitwarehouse.com/...
Where are you seeing it for $285? I see ebay at a little over $400 and watts 247 is $642.
Edit: just found maximum solar in Taiwan for that price, but shipping to US adds $106.
Have you purchased from them and are they legit?
Yes to 2 series. No 94 voc is not too much. Use a charge controller rated to 150v input since lower temps will push volts over 100 and you never want to go above volt input rating on a solar charge controller..
I've used an inkbird controller to keep a freezer at refrigerator temps as a keg tap, and to use as a fridge in a trailer. Works great. As others have said, only worry I see is condensation that will occur inside the freezer/fridge compartment. Otherwise, it's a good efficient way to keep a...
You say your goal is to use the available backyard space. Have you roughed out what your cost would be to charge your tesla with a solar system vs cost per kwh from your utility provider? I think you'll find a solar system will be much more costly.
If you're doing it for other benefits ie...
The battery you linked is only 74AH, not 600. 600 is the max amps it can produce (which is hard to fathom as I don't think anyone would recommend drawing 600 amps from a 12V battery). Warranty is also suspect at 30 days limited. You can get better AH/$ going with Chins batteries (or similar)...
You're on the right track. You need a charge controller that can charge at the right number of amps which in your case is 50A (actually slightly less given that you will charge at higher than 12V, but 50A gives you a little head room). If you get a 10 amp charge controller you'll be throwing...
North America is a continent. Central America is not, as is part of the North American continent.
https://www.countries-ofthe-world.com/countries-of-north-america.html
I've been considering this inverter/charger/mppt all in one for a similar purpose: https://watts247.com/product/pip-2724lv-mr/
Haven't pulled the trigger yet, but what intrigues me is that it already has 110V and usb outlets built-in, making it very easy to setup. Add a 24V battery and a few...
A second Victron 150/35 MPPT would work-- split your panels into two strings, one for each controller. Other option would be to re-configure your batteries into a 24V system.
Exactly. We wouldn't have a United States if Congress wasn't set up this way. It was a compromise to ensure the small states would not be dominated by the larger states with more population, and thus not have a say in federal government...just like major population centers dominate state politics.
4) Adding a generator has also been mentioned several times. Honestly that seems to be your answer as no amount of batteries will resolve your solar deficit in the winter.
Install a propane tank and run a propane generator a few hours a day to charge up the batteries.
How many square feet are you cooling with a single 24K? Is it one large space, or separate bedroom and bath? Do you use any fans to help circulate the cooled air?
If you already have AC adapters for the small devices you want to power (radios, usb-flash lights, phones, etc), my 2 cents is to skip the 48V to 12V DC converter and stick with AC-only (use a power strip on an AC circuit) to keep it simple.
Glad it was that easy, I've "been there, done that" and had to pull a load to see what my PV charging could do. Your MPP manual (pull it off watts247.com if you weren't given one) will give you specs. Amps x charging voltage would be the max Watts your charger can output to charge the...
I can't provide any first-hand recommendations, but look through the threads as there are discussions on some of the batteries available on Amazon such as Chins and LiTime.
This is for a future build, so I'm just using this time to plan. With a 120V fridge the inverter will always be on while camping in the trailer but I think I'm convinced of the benefit of having a 12v system for operating the lights independent of the inverter (while working on the trailer, as...
Like Rider, I did the same with a 3.8cf freezer to fridge conversion. Ran off one 260W panel and two 6V 210AH golf cart batteries. Worked great with no problems (and also ran 12V lighting, phone chargers, etc).
My freezer was rated at 197 KwH power use per year or about 540 Watts per day...
Good point, hadn't gotten to the point of considering how to power a backup camera. Where did you tap into the 12V power (brake lights, straight run to the tongue/brake battery, etc)? If you tapped into brake lights, does it only have power when brakes are activated? While I would use a 48V...
Is the benefit of a few more SEER worth the additional cost/complexity/potential efficiency loss w/ more hardware? I imagine you're limited in space for panels and batteries which is likely part of your calculus on what works best for your particular situation. I see 21-22 SEER 115V units...
Research before buying anything else. As already stated, if using a 48v inverter, 48v batteries are far better than 2x 24v in series.
Continue your research and post your build before going final and buying batteries, inverter/charger and solar charge controller. 48v batteries can also save you...
First, congratulations. I did a small 6x12 conversion a few years ago and hope to do a larger one in the future. I agree with what others have indicated, that separating 8 cells into a separate 12V pack doesn't seem to be the best use of that capacity. Your other large consumers (AC, water...