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I thought I’d post an update and thank everybody who had replied. The supplier where I bought the battery was extremely helpful and provided me with a full refund immediately. He even offered a direct swap with a more expensive, however, lower amperage battery, which, with hindsight I regret not...

Did you resolve this issue? I have the same charger and seem to be running into the same problem as you. I run into a hard “current” limit once my input (solar or alternator) exceeds 9.25 amps In my scenario, I am using a adjustable desktop power supply for testing purposes. For testing...

I'm building 12v 300A/h battery that will be installed in a 4wd canopy and I'd like to have a good fuse to protect against a catastrophic failure in the system. Looking at installing a Class-T fuse and most are in excess of $70 AUD (fuse only) I've just discovered that Renogy have their own...

Correct, however checking with my eBay purchases the fixed solar is actually 300W (has claimed however I suspect that to be highly optimistic) I haven't actually purchased the 200W folding panel yet however I have a credit with the supplier which I was going to use on this. I have been reading...

All good. In hindsight, your description was fine when I read it properly and would've led me to the solution faster but I was impatient and glossed over your good advice. Part of the issue lies with the Renogy manual not mentioning the "feature" of limiting current nor even that there's an BT...

I hope you have a good stone guard when towing!

Thanks, both the Winston and Calb look interesting, I'll do some research.

HAHA -definitely short-circuit blues however I don't think all is lost. All cells appear to be fine, just the BMS is toast. Landfill will have to wait for another victim.

This post covers the methods that I've tried. As noted in that post, the DC-DC charger is meant to have a BMS wake function.

For now, I was just planning on replacing just the side that was pulled off.

I'm building a simple 12v battery for a DIY toolbox power station. I've ordered 4 x EVE LF304 cells and I've also ordered a 300A BMS JK-B2A8S30P The planned configuration is a simple 4S1P which will give me 12.8v and 304A however I've only just realised by reading the specs (attached below)...

Thanks. It's very late where I am and I needed some reassurance!

I've been quoted 83-85USD (before shipping) from China for EVE 304AH Grade A cells. This seems like very attractive prices compared to what I have seen in the spreadsheet posted here some time ago. I am building just one 12v battery at this point in time and this order is my set of the system...

Thanks for that. The battery will be in my canopy of my 4wd and although we don’t race, we do drive on plenty of rough, corrugated roads which vibrates everything, including your teeth at times!

Thanks for your message. I've heard that buying direct from Eve rather expensive for shipping small quantities. The quote I have for DAP shipping to Australia is only 77USD which seems pretty fair. As mentioned in my post however I would prefer to have DPP and not have any extra sneaky charges...

3000W inverter

Well spotted. That gives me a bit more confidence in this setup for now.

Haha - yes that’s a look best avoided! I thought if before attaching the battery, I limited the output from the main battery BMS to 20 A that would be sufficient. My main power station build has a DC-DC charger incorporated into it. If I want to, I could install a changeover switch that...

G'day gang, 1st post on the forums. Looking forward to taking part and hopefully contributing to the solar community ☀️ I'm based in Melbourne Australia and despite it being known as the sunny country, here on the Eastern Coast it's been more rain and floods this summer which debatably beats...

Thanks Steve for your informative reply. I was unaware of Gobel Power and now I've been watching the reviews/tests from Off Grid Garage Andy seems very enthusiastic about global as a supplier so I will include them in my research. I've reached out also to both the other vendors for a...

Unfortunately the last battery I built (12v EVE 304 A/h) was stolen from my vehicle (along with a bunch of gear 🤬) so I'm looking to replace them. I've been offered what I believe to be a good price for Hithium 314ah 3.2v LFP Prismatic A Grade cells ($52USD from Libby at Docan) Are these...

I'd like to order nickel sheets to hopefully spot weld onto the terminals of this battery pack. Can anyone advise what thickness I should get? Options seem to be from 0.3mm to 1mm thick. The pack output is 135Ah

Again, I agree with all your points. However the scope of my project has grown since I purchased the 4 x 304 A/H cells. My aim is to make a powerful portable all-in-one universal powerstaion for use on film/photography sets. (see attached pic) The added bonus will be to take it away camping and...

Because of the weather. I’m going snow camping and the combination of an inadequate solar array and high cloud cover will require me to charge the battery using DC/DC to compensate for the lack of solar. Having the charge controller set to put back 50 A will mean that I have the best chance of...

Just a sanity check. I assume that it's better to use all three terminals and smaller gauge cable rather than just one big 95mm2 cable (300amp JK BMS) I presuming that it's better to spread the load across all terminals.

No, not necessarily. But perhaps I would have purchased less powerful BMS had I been aware. I’ll be using the inverter and battery to operate cinematography Lighting equipment. The runtimes would not exceed 10 minutes in one session generally without powering them down

At this moment I'll keep the supplier anonymous but what risk/liability/benefit would be involved with mislabeling lithium cells as "acrylic decorations" and declaring NO to dangerous goods - Would it be to save on shipping fees? The consignment note attached is for the last leg of the journey...

Okay braintrust. I'm at a loss now. I've tried three different methods to kickstart the battery. No luck with any of them. 12v 1.5A charger from a HDD 12v lithium jump starter pack (according to the flashing LEDs, the house battery was too low voltage :fp) DC-DC charger connected to solar (it...

Good thinking. I'll go down this route.

I’ve just installed a Renogy DCC50S charger into a tool box power station build and I’m wanting to go away for a couple of days camping. At the moment I only have passive ventilation behind the charger where I will be installing fans shortly. Would it be considered safe to use the charger at...

This is a case of being a noob and not paying proper attention to what I was doing :( I'm gathering equipment to build a all in one solar generator (battery, inverter, DC to DC and AC charger) I just received the last component which was a DC-DC charger with inbuilt MPPT solar. Before the sun...

Thanks, I wish I could find something that affordable here in OZ, a decent Class T fuse holder and fuse is approx $180 AUD Good observation and hopefully this could be managed by ensuring the battery was properly powered down first. I've raised a support ticket with Renogy to get the proper...

Thanks for your input. I'm not sure I'm looking for a free lunch. I just see these flexible busbars as a good solution for working with close connections. In the first photo I linked, the connection between the shunt and the negative terminal would be challenging using 95mm2 cable (one straight...

No, I figured why buck the trend. It seems that almost all commercially available batteries contain regular LiFePO4 prismatic cells so I ended up ordering 304 a/H EVE cells. I'm in the process of capacity testing them now and will build the battery next week. I will pay attention to isolating...

I appreciate your feedback and for the vote of confidence. I'm still pretty green at this but I want to make sure that everything is done with safety in mind. I think I'll design the system to have a copper busbar from the battery terminal to the Class T fuse holder then battery disconnect...

LOL, yes, I've been doing lots of research into various components and trying to educate myself along the way yet the lesson learnt today will stick around for a very long time. Unfortunately it may have been an expensive lesson! The battery was at full capacity as it has been charging via a...

As it is a brand-new battery I had the warranty card on hand and unfortunately it claims that in the case of a short circuit of the battery terminals it won't be covered. This might be my next step to take however not having any experience with lithium batteries I will look carefully into that...

I have a small Ammo case battery build which contains a 18a/h lithium motor cycle battery that needs charging while I’m out camping. If I connect it in parallel via Anderson plug to my larger 310a battery will it charge?

It reads 0v at the terminals and it has a circuit. When I plug a 12V 1-5A charger in, it fluctuates between 30-400mV (any reason why the DC charger only puts out such a minimal voltage when connected to the battery?) The SOC of the battery was 95% at the time of the short. (I was charging it to...

Thanks, you are correct in your assumption.. there seems to be little information about this particular battery online. I suspect it will be just a rebadged version that is mass produced in China. This is the specs

I'm considering purchasing a 3D printer (Creality Ender-3 V3 SE) and using it to print (amongst other things) parts for my solar builds. The first project that has driven this idea is for a custom bus bar incorporating ANL fuses. The file can be viewed here: Thingiverse Fuseholder for 5x40...

I regularly see 100, 120, 150, 200, 300A/h etc batteries in the marketplace but given 280A/h cells are relatively common, you rarely see them as pre-built versions. Can anyone explain why?

The width of the existing straps are 50mm. however I’m having trouble sourcing this size in Australia. I thought the safest bet would be too reinstate the same materials as came from the factory. One concern is however would be that the 50mm wide strap would hide the terminals, making it...

My first battery build was using the double threaded EVE cell which I think I preferred as there was more flat surface area to make good contact. The single post version I have this time seems to have a very small surface area to make a solid connection. I'd like to attached a double MRBF fuse...

So I did this. I went back to the supplier and figured I'd make them an offer on the dead 135 Ah battery and see If I can performer Frankenstein and bring it back to life. They were happy to take $50 cash as I think it was just going to end up being be a door stop. I figured that if necessary I...

Has anyone used a flexible 400 amp busbar like this in their setups? I particularly like that it eliminates the need for terminals and that it is slim and can be bent to fit small spaces as opposed to using thick 95mm2 cable. Link to data sheet

Can I ask the brains trust here, if I’m denied a warranty claim, how do I determine if it’s the BMS or batteries that are fried?

Hi brains trust - I'm considering a DIY battery build using cells purchased from Alibaba. I've noticed that on some listings you Start order request and the site offers an initial price with shipping to be negotiated with the seller. However on some other listings you simply Start order and...

Thanks for your comments. That's a good point about the possibility of tripping the battery and something that I'll need to be watchful of however I'm future proofing the system as I'll likely swap out the battery within 6 mths for a 200a/h or greater unit. Plus the price, features and size of...

For A$24 I thought I'd check one out. If you believe the label, tt appears to be 10KA IR.

I've read the lacklustre reviews for the older Ender 3 series printers however I'm prepared to gamble that the new versions have improved and addressed the previous issues. I just bough the Ender 3 V3 KE which has better specs than the 1st model I linked. (300ºC printing, improved rails/supports...

This is my 2nd battery build this year and previously I'd custom built a battery box and included the DC-DC charger and 12v outlets, Anderson plugs, shunt, fans etc. Unfortunately it was all stolen along with all my spare parts (Class_t fuses, Anderson plugs, cable etc) from the canopy of my...

Thanks, thats a great lead.

Looking to spot weld nickel plate to connect these batteries as illustrated. This will be my 1st time spot welding (I will DIY build a welder) I'm seeking advice on what thickness nickel plate to purchase given the high amperage of this pack (135Ah) also, I'm assuming the thicker the plate, a...

Budget is defiantly an issue. I'm prepared to spend the AUD $300 (plus material) to begin with. In my little research online, it seems that many of the problems that plagued the previous Ender 3 models have been addressed with the V3-SE so hopefully it will be passable for my infrequent use...

G'day DIY brains trust. Long story short, I have a 135Ah - 12 V battery consisting of 32 33140 cells in a 4S8P configuration. The original battery had shorted and fried the BMS. I was removing the pack from the battery enclosure and in the process I manage to unfortunately tear the bottom...

All 32 cells measure 3.34V I took the heatsink off the BMS and a scorch mark is evident in the pad over one of the transistors. The diode and positive lead also look scorched as well.

Good tip, I tried this just now and unfortunately had no luck. Before I hack the box open I will go back to the retailer where I purchased the battery and see if I have any joy there.

Whoops - wrong forum thread.

Hi Crowz, Are you able to shed any light why the the little remaining voltage slowly disappeared when it was connected to the DC-DC charger? And I guess it would be pointless trying again today? EDIT: The battery before the short was at 95% SOC

Has anyone used a flexible 400 amp busbar like this in their setups? I particularly like that it eliminates the need for terminals and that it is slim and can be bent to fit small spaces as opposed to using thick 95mm2 cable. Link to data sheet

Thanks, I’m learning as I go so good thing this post is in beginners corner 😀 These are the closest battery specs that I can estimate the cells to be: Nominal capacity: 15Ah Continuous discharge current: 75A Maximum current discharge: 5C

I'd like to install a Class T fuse into my yet to be built 12v 310A power station. The reason for the choosing a Class T fuse is to protect against a catastrophic direct short where there could be in excess of 10k Amps (happy to be corrected here) Now given that Class T fuses aren't cheap ($80...

Thanks for the quick reply. I can confirm that I was using a multimeter and testing the battery when not connected to anything. Before trying the DC-DC charger, the reading across the terminals was only 4V and after being on the DC-DC charger, it now reads 0V (again, just the naked battery)...

It's a general purpose 12.8V 135Ah battery. Pics explain it better here I have a 1200W inverter that will be used occasionally but it will be mostly use to run a portable camping fridge and lighting. The back story is that the battery was refunded under warranty due to a short that killed the...

Thanks, that is a very educational reply. Does surface area play a role in the capacity to handle greater loads? I’m not sure if the design of the nickel plated sheets having a large surface area compensates for thin material.

Agreed, trying to charger is my next step. As I noted above, I read that the charges should be very low amperage to begin with. Is that correct? I assume it doesn’t have to be a specific lithium charger? I have one on order but it hasn’t arrived yet but I do have a standard SLA 12v charger...

All cells are 3.2v 32 Batteries total 4 x 8 Aren't they all just connected in series?

Can I ask how, if at all you are dealing with ground faults if this is used as a standalone device? (Sorry if this question has been addressed before in this thread, but given this particular post is about safety I thought you may have addressed it here)