Thanks for the input. I have a tap and die set arriving today, covers like M3 - M12, coarse and fine threads, figured having something on hand that will cover and bolts I might need to repair in the future would be good to have.
Couldn't find and coupling nuts shorter than 10mm and those...
In some ways that would make sense but the internal mechanical connection would seem to make a better overall connection especially given the tiny shoulder are for contact with the busbar. I saw someone here describe the process but have no idea who or which thread.
Pretty confident that the...
I’ve been doing a LOT more research into this including the video by Victron that makes the situation not look quite as bad as I feared. Also have a lot of pages open from their community and willpost ones I find relevant including any I ask to get additional clarification, especially given...
Wow, not sure how well I would trust welded on busbars partially because of concerns that they might not be sized for future load changes vs what they were when I bought them, issues dealing with a bad cell in the pack, issues if they aren’t seated correctly on the terminal during the welding...
thanks for reminding me about the cutting oil. I’m on the road full-time and all my tools and supplies are in storage so might not of thought about it and had to make an extra trip or a second order to get some.
Thanks, am familiar with lugs like that and actually did consider using them after seeing EVE’s new welded terminals but because these clamps down on cable I wasn’t sure about the connection. For this particular issue it could still be interesting just to eliminate or at least cut down on the...
based on the follow-up discussion regarding this, I doubt it’s something I’d consider given that when the battery power does kick in, it will generally be sucking 100-150 amps per battery pack.
Sorry not sure what you are referring to?
My goal is to end up with a usable welded stud and attach the busbars some as you normally would, although I am leaning towards using a coupling nut instead of a standard nut that way it uses all available threads vs just a couple above the bus bar and...
It’s a 50 amp RV so there are 2 use cases, the power assist when connected to 30 amp shore power so we can run the RV without any fears of tripping the breaker in the pedestal and in the case of a blackout continuing to service our loads.
Right now, I’m thinking I’m going to have to install a...
Another solution occurred to me to use a die to make sure the top threads are clean and then use a coupling nut, with their longer length they shouldn’t have any problems putting enough torque on the on the busbars even with no threads available on the bottom portion of the welded stud.
Nope, the threads of the laser welded on studs are stripped right off. They obviously are a very poor grade stainless steel if they actually are stainless steel…
Good point but if I’m going to have to get a second inverter I’m still going to be pulling that per inverter out of the bank. My system is going to use 2 packs and hopefully 4 by the end of the year.
BTW, any idea why your inverter is pulling 284 amps at 2400w vs the 200 amps it should be...
Looks like the bad experiences with welded studs has bit again… My Lishen 270ah’s came with welded studs from the “group buy” organized by “he whose name cannot be spoken”… they were supposed to be M8 but only ended up being M6 and I’ve seen some comments indicating that they aren’t even quite...