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While that might be true, I see multiple people running chargers in parallel. it actually looks like the "sweet spot" is 15-20 Amps for "48v" (at which voltage in the charging range to they claim said amps, who knows!) you don't save much by going smaller it seems. For the scenario I laid out...

[Removed because people got mad]

Sure, perhaps it would be more accurate to say city/county/state owned, and maybe certain aspects federal (cross state interconnects and what not)

I assume all numbers are for no shading no clouds etc. The steeper the angle the less likely "no shading" applies for all hours of sunlight.

We have cake?!?! :)

[removed] Travel more, see the world, meet people unlike yourself and try talking to them. Edit: Unwatching this thread as it's a dumpster fire.

One of the things that has come up when I've been searching is that keeping LFP at a high state of charge (SOC) damages their lifespan significantly, this is reduced by cycling the battery apparently. How much of an impact does that have when kept at "reasonable" temperature ranges (say a simi...

Ugh, I'll just add this to my list of buyers regret and things to worry about

Bit of background: Ok, so I have a few server rack UPS units that take 48v SLA (4x12v SLA) batteries. I've noticed that sometimes they refuse to switch to back to "AC" input from my AIO inverter or take and extended period of time to do so. So that has me a bit annoyed, and paranoid. They are...

I actually have issues with my EG4 3000 and my Rackmount UPS sometimes not viewing the inverter output as clean enough.

How? In what possible way was this designed worse than the cheapest of AC-DC power supplies from aliexpress? This thread gives me 0 confidence in the design, QA, or quality of EG4 products. I've run all sorts of things from multiple generators over the years, some very very cheap. Anything...

How did you end up fusing these? I like the idea of running some lighting right off 48V batteries, not even DC-DC losses (just the resistors or current limiter chips)

Part me me wishes I had the budget and the time. I feel like something is 100% wrong here, be it design (intentional or mistake) or defect. Even with a contactor the level of self consumption strikes me as too outside of normal. Or, they have no issues and the consumption is/was elsewhere in the...

Potential HOA and permit issues. Making it look nice 100% means cutting the lines and dealing with that. The siding/walls is the area are a complication. Honestly it doesn't really matter what my reasoning is. If there's something unsafe about a temporary install I'm all ears. It seems like a...

From the sounds of it, even a bunch of inverter generators cause problems. :(

Thanks for the first hand experience! Personally if I was going to do a "solar thermal battery" I think figuring out proper safe design would be key. Based on some testing I've seen modern tanks can *hold* heat overnight (or over-day) with little issue, but that was more centered around "time...

Found the link, thanks! For the 90deg (vertical) is that assuming freestanding bifacial or on a structure? If it's assuming a structure, would a freestanding bifacial be roughly double? I'm generally looking to optimize for winter, and "offgrid" (more like critical systems backup with lighter...

Sure, I figured I'd have to vacuum it down to deinstall. In my personal experience of the "just AC" style the floor standing units are not as effecient and cost more Any specific ones? when looking in the past it's been hard to tell if the unit was truly heatpump or JUST AC and if it had...

I will need to read through this thread for ideas. If the deck gets enough light would it make sense to just "hang" bifacials or is there too much wind load?

Wish they made more units for side sliding windows so I could not make to make adaptors lol. How is this in cold, how far down will it really heat? Oh, looks like it might be AC only

Thanks for the feedback, seems like a "you could, but maybe you shouldn't" SO maybe plan B is saner. Hows the SEER/efficiency in comparison should I redo my "how worth it is it?" calculations

Buying a fully new inverter, and a fully new generator would be quite the expense in my case, money in my case better spent elsewhere. Especially since you seem to have at least a 10Kw generator! :ROFLMAO: The simple option for me would be buying a charger. I tried to be fairly clear on the...

Does the forum software allow rate limiting? Or even better rate limiting with progressive backoff?

I'm sorry, your BATTERY draws 100W constant? On the one hand I hope that was mean to be plural, on the other hand even then... ?

Well, I don't think I'd need a flaring kit for initial install (I don't mind leaving the pipes long and coiling them) or de-install. Likely only for re-install (at which point I might be getting more mini splits for the new place anyways). Vacuum I could rent if needed for install, and decide...

Getting back to your original issue. What I would do in your shoes is actually figure out all of the constant drains, and troubleshoot the ones that don't make sense. Your batteries should NOT be drawing 45-100W constantly, screen monitoring or no; thats a full on gaming PC or server at idle...

For these setups did you do a "normal" install (holes through the wall)?

I thought LifePo4 has slightly different charge profile for optimal life? I actually have the same rackmount UPS and have been thinking of switching it to LifePo4 myself

This is a LifePo4 battery bank? No way in [censored] should it be pulling down 100W constantly (the original statement). Nor should you be seeing 84% between charge and discharge from the battery alone (NOT the charger or inverter part). 84% from "energy at inverter in to battery" to "energy...

Any updates? Fairly similar to what I'm looking to do.

Hey all, I'm trying to figure out the sane way to add a bunch of small consumption loads to a 48V system. I have a t-class equivalent for the main system feed. I'll have a fuse (with proper AIC) from my main distribution that could feed a smaller bus bar, distro, what have you , but there's...

Oh thats a clean look, only rated for 24V, but with an upstream properly rated fuse (for AIC) and a separate ground (so no clearance issues) might be alright? Is that a product you've used? Sometimes things look nice but the build quality is terrible ?

So the cost of dual-hose (single hose sucks for efficiency) units and the absolute trash level marketing for window units (calling units with electric heat "heat pump" is just....) has me thinking about my original "stupid plan A".

This feels really broken to me. Do they have internal heaters? Is the BMS doing balancing (and perhaps failing to get to balance) What software/sensor is this from?

Wait 15s? Is your inverter correctly configured for a 15s battery? 16s is more common I think. Is there closed loop communication from inverter to battery?

What site did you use for this? Just currious

Which LED bulbs were less sensitive?

Looks like a fairly beefy option for 48V! It's certainly an option!

A very "tl;dr" pros and cons of various system voltages (by "nominal voltage") 12V: Lots of stuff for RVs, there's a whole bunch of 12V equipment, fuses, and all that due to it being common for automotive. So there's a ton of cheap workable system componants, and you can even add cheap modified...

Sure, I also don't really need breakers for this application, or at most a single breaker for all of these "sub circuits". Still adding it to my "think list". Need to price the breakers I'd use and that might really change my mind lol At these kind of prices the temptation is to get the 4...

So I'm looking at say another 60 bucks for breakers. The value add is easier isolation of loads (assuming my alternative is bolted/screwed fuses) There other added benefit is theres lots of expansion room. I would need to measure clearances (including for cable egress) since it has defined...

Any idea on if this applies to "mobile" battery systems, such as DIY "solar generator". An example would be the "system on a handtruck" type project that Will has demonstrated before.

I'm thinking about how I see some people talk about their setup, and they might be over simplifying compared to what they do. Hypothetical system: 2 tanks in series; tank A is the 1st tank, gets cold water from the city or a well with chlorine system - tank B is the 2nd tank gets water from...

Is there a way to set the inverter to ONLY change the batteries when in SBU mode? I tried switching the "bypass" setting and it seems like in both cases as soon as the batteries reach the SOC % that triggers charging from utility, utility powers the load and charges. I'd love to use an...

I can't shake the feeling that these "waste" solar. Do any of these feature the ability to "load shed" when not running to a SCC? Plus as 470GLE mentioned unless your lows are down there and/or your insulation is top notch, you might need to run these outside of sun hours anyways. I like the...

That's very odd. For one series water heaters are very much "a thing" in buildings, even residential. Second, and more importantly, that doesn't actually make sense unless people are doing odd things. The 2nd water heater should still be connected to power/heat and set to not below the safe...

Several people who filed in previous years said they just gave totals, no receipts. My guess would be $ amount claimed drives likeyhood of audit

Ok, so how do people feel about the need for T-class fuses "beyond" the main system fuse(s). Assume batteries and battery banks are all fused correctly (enough AIC, correct size to protect wires). Is there any actual NEED for T-class level AIC on branches? In theory if a 50A fuse blows and...

My AIO can't do that, and from what I've read it's not as common as one would think/hope. There's also the issue that many generators don't have the cleanest power, even inverter ones.

So that form seems to say that there is a total lifetime limit of $500? I feel like I'm reading that part wrong? I don't see anywhere in that draft that defines that it must be for a complete system, that it cannot add on to an existing system, or that any part of the system cannot be used...

Any updates on this? Looks like EG4 3KW units have been/are shipping with the grounding screw removed (no N-G bond in any mode) like some of its bigger brothers and sisters. Rather than deal with slow customer support and/or opening the darn thing up, I'd prefer to connect the neutrals together...

So I started spring cleaning in the garage and ran into some spools of 00, 4, and 8 gauge that I still have from my days of caring about car audio systems. It's all fine stranded tinned pure copper, the insulation is rated for engine bays (oil and heat). I'm temped to upgrade the size of a...

Based on pictures/videos I've seen elsewhere that vacant screw MIGHT be the right one. Check for continuity between the exposed metal around the screw hole and output N with the inverter off, disconnected, and caps drained, and be real careful about what you touch with the probe incase there...

Darn, thanks! What is the auto/manual bypass setting for then? I'm not sure I understand from the manual (I had assumed that's what it was for, but it seems not) Not sure if I want to dive into possibly using the SCC and rectified AC-DC (it would be within voltage spec) in Winter/emergencies or...

Any word on if the EG4 3Kw units are impacted? Seems they also stopped shipping with the bonding screws at some point. if the bonding screw is removed, is there harm in hard-wiring that neutral-neutral bond right at the inverter?

If I was building a busbar I'd do something similar. Bolt from the back side with some method to keep it from spinning, keep as much of the copper intact as possible. IMHO any hole though a copper busbar should be 25% of the width at worse or less as well/