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So then I should try and sell a panel, or keep one as an extra incase one breaks. I can run 2s2p with the 4 panels. I wont have as much wattage but 2.2k is still a good bit of wattage. Thats what I am doing, I think I might suck at explaining things lol. I will have 2 bms, 1 on each 48V...

I was an idiot lol....I accidentally clipped cell 8 wire when cutting the wire ties. Twisted together put some heat shrink over and it's all working now!

Awesome maybe I'm not as confused as I think lol. I just don't want to cause a fire or get electrocuted so I'm extremely cautious with all this

My hands are still shaking from the adrenaline lol. I'm gonna skip the heat shrink and just go get insulated tool. Lesson learned quickly lol

I'll run a new chassis ground for the SCC and the solar breaker box so they can have their own run with 6awg cables. Then the inverter can ground to the lynx as it has a busbar for a ground connection point, then another post for the chassis ground to connect to. Then everything has its own run...

That makes sense now, I thought balancing took a while but it seems like it can do it in minutes. Here are my new BMS settings also, could you look them over and make sure everything is good for me? Also beautiful sunset

That's exactly the breaker I got, the 2 pole one. From their wiring diagram it looks like panels connect at the bottom with positive wire on the left, negative on the right. Will any of that matter if it's not exact? I feel a like a pole is a pole but want to just make sure and learn...

Makes complete sense. So as long as I followed the diagram for mine I'm fine right? It's been running for like 4 or 5 months but anxiety's a bitch lol

I have 2 of the bms's I posted so I'll wire each to an individual battery. I plan to run the 2 48V packs to a shared bus bar with a 4awg cable, which will then run to the lynx distributor with a 1/0 cable. That will then run to the inverter with a 1/0 cable to supply the inverter with power...

Hey guys. My system has been running great but today I'm not sure what happened. I was away for a couple days and when I left batteries were around 45%. It's a 48V system with 29Kwh of battery. 2 sets of 304Ah. I don't get much solar at all and when I came back it said 100% which I found odd...

Gonna order that enclosure now. You've had success with these breakers cus I see so many mixed reviews on using polarity breakers for solar. It's such a scary thing if one thing goes wrong everything can just go away in an instant

So I am building out an 18' box truck into an rv. The roof is 18' x 8', I want to have as much solar as possible up there, with room for a max air fan. I am going to build a battery from 304ah grade a eve cells, 16 in series for around 15kw. I am thinking of doing (2) sets and wiring those in...

Now the connector is reading 0 at the #8 connector also, but 9 still shows voltage

I think I should learn voltage for sure cus of this. 47V seems like it's near the bottom of the batteries state of charge Measuring the SOC from the victron shunt, the capacity input was correct before I left for the holidays. It did get extremely cold and I'm wondering if that messed things...

Lithium batteries and yes victron shunt. The waterproof one. Is it normal for the shunt to reset itself?

Taking a screenshot of those values lol. I have it plugged into the house now going to let it charge all night and day tomorrow till the BMS goes to float

I'm having trouble finding the correct mega fuses I need to install in my lynx distributor. I can find the right sizes in 36V fuses but when looking for 58V or 70V I can't find the correct sizes, they're all extremely to high. I need a 150A, 125A, 30A, and a 60A. I can only find the 125A...

Thank you for reminding me about fuses I forgot to order them! I ordered some 2awg wire to bump it up. I also posted a new thread about the fuses as I went to add them to my cart but I can only find the 36V versions. When I try to find 58V+ they go to extreme amps and I need smaller ones, like...

That's what I felt I was doing. I use blue seas wire size chart, but I've been told that's not entirely accurate and that wires can handle more then that chart shows. So I have no idea what to believe

I tried to wiggle on it and it feels pretty on there. Like if I pull to hard I might break it off. Ive tried searching Google and can't find anything about it like no one else has this issue lol

Finally found a video and it does pull of, do I just pull hard and it won't break? Lol

Thank you for the source I'll check them out real fast. The 30A is for my solar, what would you recommend I do about that?

If my wall had more room I'd probably add the breaker with a resistor that's a really good idea. Future project or idea when I have to do this again lol. The panels are connecting to a SCC then to a bus bar where the batteries, inverter, and 48 to 12V converter are all attached.

My JK BMS has a push button for on/off but it didn't come with a manual to explain anything. Ive heard some BMS are very sensitive and will break if you plug in all the 16 wires before the main negative or vise versa. Does it matter for the jk if I was just going to plug it all in the wire the...

I have a victron lynx distributer with solar, inverter, and 12V system. I have the shunt connected to the main negative on that lynx. I have the both batteries connected to a positive and negative bus bar and from there one wire each pos/neg to the lynx. I figured the solar wouldn't listen the...

So shorting a battery is basically like it's just powering itself? It's just a huge burn risk and with the burn risk with it doing that for a long period will burn itself?

I have the 12V fuse block wired to a breaker that I currently have off I'm so confused now lol. Plugged in connected to the SCC means they're producing power right? But if they arnt plugged in then they arnt producing any power? So wouldn't it be impossible to plug them in while they're...

Where do I find the savings cus 50 a pack is wtf lmao. Everyone said 48v would be cheaper but it seems it evens out with a 24v system at this point and the wires really aren't that much thinner lmao I mean I gotta buy it no matter what but now I know for next time

Awesome that makes me feel better lol. Thank you for all your help dude!

I'm gonna keep them on shore power and let them fully charge over night and throughout tomorrow keeping an eye on their voltages. I'm wondering if the BMS shut off charging to the batteries, but the shunt still took the solar as charging and that's why it showed 100%. Or the cold just made...

I figured the same so I ordered the big baby, Ill figure out how to make it fit. Question for the grounding, can I run a wire from the ground in the enclosure to the SCC ground, from the SCC ground to the inverter ground, from the inverter ground to the lynx ground, and finally from the lynx to...

Setting up a 48V 16s2p system. Wanting to do a 200A bms on the system to handle the 6500 watt inverter. I'll never push anything near that, but better to have incase I need later rather then need and not have. Just looking for the basic safety features, low temp cut off, high amp/voltage/low...

I'll double check the settings I have currently and update accordingly. I appreciate the help! I'm wondering if the BMS shut off charging cus of the cold, but the shunt was still thinking the solar was charging so it kept going up because of that, but that wouldn't make much sense since the SOC...

I did put balancing at 3.45 on the BMS settings. I just followed Andy for off grid garage's settings for the BMS. Also I can't seem to find how to know when I should tell my smart shunt the battery is 100% SOC, it's already showing 100% but I highly doubt it is?

That's fair definitely cheaper then victrons. I. Just gonna order the $50 packs. I think next time I'll just plan to each individual fuse and source everything before ordering anything and see what's best for my situation. Since my system isn't super high power I could of just used 24v things...

That's my plan I just ordered an extra pack of 60a fuses and will use 6awg wire from my solar breaker. So it'll be 10awg wire in for the solar break then 6 awg coming out is that safe?

I have a 4 panel system. Each are 540W putting out 49Voc and 12.97A. The system is a 2s2p system. The short circuit is 13.85A, with a max series fuse rating of 30A. I was wondering which of these would be better to use on the way to my charge controller. I was thinking the breaker so if it...

So even tho the positive and negative cables are entering and exiting on the same side, inside the break it makes it transfer to the other side? I think that's how I'm picturing it at least, and that's why it's marked -- even though it'll have the positive cable coming out going to the positive...

Makes a lot of sense, I definitely understand the safety aspects of it and that's why I've always gone with fuses rated for the power I was going to use even if it was under what the wire could safely handle. Id rather replace a fuse then burn my house down lol. I'll post a new thread...

I assume how I've been doing it is correct then. I usually just charge till it stops putting in any amps then say okay that's 100% Is that right?

I saw they use to carry them, I just picked up the cells from them and was really hoping they'd get back in stock but never did. Alan showed bmsbatterystore carries and docan but I'm not sure on how reliable the sites are I'll have to look into it. Do you just use Alibaba now? And for needing...

Shit the UL listing does make me feel more comfortable, but I wouldn't need the ground lug, unless I ground it with the solar itself anyway. I hate having options it makes things difficult lol

What should I make these settings? The default seems way to low for lithium?

I believe I put 56.8V for charging, is that good or should I go a little higher? Sounds good I'll get those updated in the morning! Can't charge with inverter until Sunday but solar will start tomorrow morning

I don't see why this wouldn't be safe but just want to make sure before I go ahead and run it. I have 2 48V batteries that I'm building. Each has 100A JK BMS. They'll be connected in parallel. I plan on doing a snake pattern with them so they can all sit flat next to each other. The bus bars...

I know most situations call for the top to be the feed from your panels and the bottom of the breaker to the charge controller, but how do you know when you do the opposite? Like for my midnite solar breaker, their diagram showed feed from the panels to the bottom and from the top of breaker to...

I'm trying to figure out exactly how my system will be wired together. The bms came with absolutely 0 instructions, so im hoping others here will know the answers I need. I'll post a picture to show what I'm confused about. For the set of red wires not connected, what are they supposed to...

Most of the wires I bought had a chart with them so I'm just going a little under the max rating of the wire for the fuses. As far as the class t on my batteries, is it okay to just have 1 250A class T on the 1/0 cable after the common positive bus bar, or do I need to put (2) 150A class Ts...

0. I'm working on finishing my design to know the total amount of power I'm going to be using daily. Thank you for telling me how little power the Victron system uses when idle. I used Victron in the grooming van, but didn't install solar on that so I thought it would be nice for an all in one...

So I know you need to pre charge before attaching your second battery cable to the bus bar to avoid the spark, but what about for an Anderson connector? Since that would plug both at once, how would you go about that? Also when you shut the power from the batteries off with a disconnect from...

Did you wire yours in series or parallel on the roof? I assume since it's an RV its a 12V system and not a 24 or 48 system? I am definitely trying to figure out a way to get them to tilt without having to physically climb up everyday lol, were you able to come up with a system?

And you have to do that every time? I've seen off grid garage flip his breakers off, then back on to the battery packs without using a resistor? Or am I missing something? I just want to understand so I can do it right everytime

I'll contact them and see if it's polarized. I'd hope it's not just Chinese garbage they're extremely highly regarded in the campervan building community for the electrical part. If it is Chinese garbage would a blue sea on and off that you'd use for a battery work instead for just being able...

I'm thinking it's not polarized but I'll contact them to be safe

I'm terrible with what electrical pictures mean and I don't want to give the wrong answer. It does look like both sides connect at 2 and 4 but that'd be an instant short so I'm really not sure

So I went with the midnite solar breaker and for some reason picked a 30 amp breaker when my system can push 45 amps. I have 4 540 watt panels in a 48V system. Idk why I picked 30 amp breaker maybe I converted using 120V numbers? But either way should I switch it out for a 50A breaker or...

I hope the drawing makes sense. I tried labeling as well as I could. Hopefully the legend at the bottom clears any confusion

It came off lol. One more thing I hope you can guide me on. I was stupid and forgot to tape the opposite sides of the cells that werent getting connections. I slipped and the bus bar shorted a cell, quick spark. The cell is still reading 3.3 like all the other cells. Will it be okay or do I...

Nvm I forgot it comes in at a much higher voltage. I did do math when I ordered the breaker lol. I really do want to thank everyone who's helped me build this project it's been invaluable!

I realized my drawing had an error, it shows the negative connecting to the positive with the 1/0 it should be positive to positive I'll get a new drawing up one sec

So fuse each battery with a 150A class t, then I won't need the 250A class t after the bus bar correct?

I'm charging with solar and MP. So Im guessing the setting should go, absorption: 56.8V, fixed for absorption mode, not sure about the time I believe I set 1 hour or 25 minutes I need to double check, and float would then be 57V then. And tail at 4% For the solar the charged should then be 56.6V

New drawing showing the correct corrections

I think I'm overthinking everything cus I don't want to blow up my house lol. So for the 4wg lugs I can just attach to a 2 pole bus bar rated for 250A then run a 4awg wire from that to wherever I need? Also to make sure if I use the 4 awg wires, I'll be running 2 batteries with 100A BMS each...

I suck at drawing out what's in my head. Apologies for that. For the wires it the lynx distributor, should it not be a positive from one battery, and negative from the other, each being the same length?

Looking at the back of the bms I think they sent me the wrong one? It says a 200a BMS I believe and possible 2 parallel? Here's a picture to double check

Going to be installing a solar setup on the top of my box truck. It will take up the entire roof of the box truck that is 18' long with a couple inches of overhang on the back end. So it wont have much material to reflect anything to the underside. They will sit about 7 inches off the roof, and...

I almost have everything wired up and ready to go. I just need to wire the 2 batteries up. 16 cells for a 48V battery each. They will go to 2 separate 200A JK BMS and a 150 A t fuse each. I know it's under rated but I don't expect to pull more then 100A from each battery. From there to a...

Thank you so much. I will make sure I update the settings and have them match on both the multiplus and the SCC. For the 57V float I accidentally added the .2V rather then minus lol, but you suggest 54V instead of 56.6V for the float?

So Im trying to get my system programmed correctly and get my shunt set at 100% at the right voltage. I set my Victron multiplus to charge to 56.8V, but it went to float and my batteries are only reading 54.84V, does that mean I need to set the float higher, or is this their 100% SOC? I set...

I'm brand new to building a battery. I have experience with solar and 12V systems but never building a battery pack. I thought I got the 100a version since I was using 2 batteries I was anticipating rating each at 100A, but I got from ali Express and I explained my system to the agent there...

If I don't use the 1/0 cable what should I use for the busbar? I assume nickel but the only plates I saw on Amazon without pre drilled holes, wasn't telling me how many amps its safe for. That's where I'm concerned not using a thick enough piece and the bar getting to hot

So midnite solar must be polarized then also since it has the same markings. I always wondered tho why the + doesn't follow it straight through or the -. I assume it depends on which way you have the main lead from the panels coming through?

Shit you're right, would I connect the same 2 cells just connect both their positives and both their negatives, or would I connect the opposite ends negatives together?

Unless you think I should replace the 150A fuse with a 225A fuse. It'll be 2awg wire going to it, rated for 205A

I found them for basically the same price as another panel I'm looking at. I'm picking them both up and the monos are on the way to pick up the batteries, where as the bifacials are the opposite direction. So I'd save like 20 bucks on the mono panels and lose 25 total watts, but I'd save around...

Also completely separate topic, but for my batteries will running them to the same bus bar with 2awg then running 1/0 to a 150A class t fuse be okay? Ive never fused each battery separately I've always just ran a fuse after all batteries connected as one, but I've also never ran batteries to a...

Maybe I should post another post to ask about what fuses to use? I've always rated my fuses to what my load was and what I knew the wire could handle, so I may be under sizing them when I don't really need to?

Victron 150/45, but my breaker is rated to 30A and the panels can only pull 30a

I followed Andy's from off grid garage settings of his BMS, the low voltage cutoff is 2.65V per cell, that feels awful low after learning this. Should I raise that up? Also the BMS is showing .2V lower than the shunt is reading. Is that normal?

https://www.solar-electric.com/baby-box.html?campaignid=21044024350&adgroupid=165923873424&creative=691522161251&matchtype=&network=g&device=m&keyword=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3bm3BhDJARIsAKnHoVVp8eJpZINjkOYctAft7btxXcF0xb7_DoYmGP2gxgZzLTHzmIK___IaAgKREALw_wcB#reviews I also found this box...

I wasn't able to find just the 300V till just now on the site you recommended for the fuses. So I had to order the 600V version from stellavolta. I'm very confused with the breaker though, because the ++ on the bottom is -- on that same pole at the top and vice versa. I do have a single...

This is what I mean by the ++ and --, super confusing

I'll update those settings which means I may need to also update my BMS settings. I'm using a JK BMS, and I have the balance set to 3.45V which if I keep them at 3.375 they won't get to that voltage to even be able to balance correct? How do you eliminate the risk of the low current over charge?

Figured itd be good to post the side info just in case also

So I could just have the Victron switch turned off, unwire the positive cable for the inverter on the lynx distributor. Then wrap the resistor around that lug, turn the switch on and hold the other end of the resistor on the lynx positive bus bar for a few seconds then connect the power wire...

Nice build you have there. I may end up going that route. I have seen some aluminum bus bars and I have aluminum plates laying around already. Do you think that would be enough or should I go with copper?

The smallest screw driver I have that does a 90 is to fat to fit and all my thin screw drivers are to long to fit in that tint space between the positive terminal and the screws. Kinda weird design for it....

I'm a little confused on if I run 2 100A BMS would that make them each run at 200A? I wanted to install the batteries as a snake, going 16s2p but I'm confused how I could run 2 bms doing it that way also? I'm trying to find some videos on it but there doesn't seem to be much info out there for...

That's what I was thinking that it needs most of the panel pulling in the light and not just a small section of it. Bifacials arnt any better in low light conditions compared to standard panels these days either right?

I'm assuming the bridge link is the copper bar connecting both spots together? So all I have to do is wire the positive to the bottom positive, negative to bottom negative, and keep the wires the same and ignore the ++ -- at the top? Why is it labeled opposite on each end anyway? That's feels...

So you just take the resistor and touch both wire lugs coming out from under the battery disconnect for a few seconds then power it on? My battery disconnect goes to a bus bar where solar, inverter, and my 48-12V converter all are connected. So it would still work that way right? This part is...

I am running (4) 540 watt panels. 2s2p, it will be 100V at 26A with a 25-30ft run. Might be able to get a little less depending on final locations of charge controller. I used a solar wire size calculator, https://explorist.life/wire-sizing-calculator/, and its telling me 12awg wire at a 1.5%...

I can grab some 2awg to run instead. The inverter im running is the Victron multiplus 110V 5k

Just to make sure it will still work, and I don't see why it wouldn't, but my disconnect goes to the bus bar with the inverter, solar, and 48-12V converter all connected. It would still pre charge everything the same way I would assume? So it's completely safe to plug the MC4 connectors...

I have (2) 48V 15kw battery packs. What resistor should I be using to precharge them before connecting to the bus bar that connects to the entire system? I also looked for 48v lightbulb and socket but didnt have much luck from amazon, it was all up to 36V

How do you know what vendor to trust on AliExpress? So with the amperage adding up does that mean the wiring needs to be rated for 400Amps since that's what the BMS will be rated for? There's no way I want to push that kind of power lol. That would be insane lol Does that connect straight to...

Do you guys think the explorist life one I'm going to install for my friend will be good? Concerned it's the cheap Chinese garbage now. It's only a 18V 20A system. (3) 100 watt panels, but still want things safe. They really are extremely highly regarded in the electrical components of...

Ill definitely get 2 bms after the suggestions about it. I just have to find which vendor to trust from AliExpress, gonna do a little bit of research into that

Good idea on just connecting each to a common bus bar. If I do it that way, each bms is rated for 100A. Could I then use 4awg cable to run from the batteries instead of 1/0, then from the common bus bar to the invertor run 1/0? Will never go over 150A my components won't allow it