Recent content by Pappion

I use XT90 connectors. You can buy them with 10awg pigtails already soldered in and just use crimp connectors. xt90

A-B-off battery switch could be wired up with the resistor. Off to A (resistor) to B (on)

You can store electrical power or you could store water. Enough water stored and you could pump at peak solar periods, and wait out worst days. Stand alone solar means more material and planing for LiFePO4 battery temperature range. Lead Acid could be a good fit for peak solar pumping. Also look...

Data Sheet Protection "Battery reverse polarity (fuse), Output short circuit, Over temperature" But I couldn't find a picture of the DC connection end. My WFCO 60A protection: 2x 40A blade fuses for Battery reverse polarity, Output short circuit. No fuse to fuse box.

Look at the lower part of the blue sea systems, link in my prior post. Top chart is for % voltage drop for length of AWG. Lower chart to select fuse for AWG OK, 30A circuit needs a fuse 1.25x to 1.33x higher (40A) to prevent nuisance blows. So you need at a bare minimum 10AWG, 8awg is better...

Yes. I would use at least 8awg, preferred 6awg, since your connecting to converter and fuse box. Odd that it is only a 30A converter. That branch has the most potential to get a short, so AIC is important. I used 80A ANL fuse on my 60A converter / fuse box branch. ANL is about 6000 AIC at 32v...

FYI Victron internal fuse

I kept one lead acid (LA) tongue battery for the trailer brakes. Sticker said LA required. The LiFePO4 BMS could be shut down due to temperature. Also there is no OEM fuse from LA battery to breakaway trailer switch. I'd rather not have an accident where some lawyer could mislead a jury about...

In keeping with standards the Class T should be the trunk fuse. Simple with less chance of wire shorts. After it are the branches. A short to/from 30A battery fuse might draw enough current to make the wire glow like a cigarette lighter. Likewise the DC AIC current could be high enough to...

Yes the blade fuses should be replaced. Did not find an AIC rating for ATC etc.. They tolerate engine compartment temperatures. Fuses blow from overheating, and are self heating. At room temp it might take 60A to blow a 30A blade fuse. That fuse holder you show is typically 12AWG or less...

The voltage drops look OK. Fuses could use some rework. 1. Class T should be the single battery fuse. Green should be moved from battery to Class T output. 2. I would use better fuses. Higher AIC rating. ANL has good AIC but is large. Midi Fuses are smaller and up to 5000AIC @12v. Midi Fuse...

Not sure the buss bar can handle the current.. Try using 2 wires on the Shunt. 2/0 to inverter on bottom and another wire lug on top of it to buss bar. Shunt @ 500A is 0.05V. So 0.0001 ohms. Power loss (heat) ohms * current * current, @200A = 4W

When you make something fool proof, someone makes a better fool.

I can turn off my Victron Smart Solar via Bluetooth. That removes the load and current. The old TT had ground mounted panels, about 48v. Just throw a towel over it before removing extension cord.

I used these in the old Travel Trailer. DZ47-63 2 Pole 20A 400V Did not like them. Not good at holding a wire. Would rather crimp connections.