A good crimp has better mechanical strength and lower resistance than a solder joint, but hammering a solder joint will fracture the solder and degrade it's performance.
If you must do both, hammer first, then solder.
Same with sex toys - never use silicon lube on silicon rubber.
black o-rings are likely to be a nitrile rubber, while orange are probably a fluro-elasomer
Vaseline will destroy latex, but is ok on silicone.
You need to know your "rubber" before you pick your lube.
I decided I didn't need the larger sizes and went for the smaller (cheaper) 10/12t version.
I payed considerably less than the current price, but they are still good value.
Edit: This is the tool I use - cost me less than $40
You could do that after you have crimped - as @Zwy says, the crimp...
Standard heatshrink is great for a lot of things - reducing fatigue, identification, insulation etc. But if you want it to be waterproof, the you need the glue lined heatshrink. This stuff is tough and provides a lot of protection above standard heatshrink.
An alternative is 'liquid insulation...
For me, the two desirable reasons for using the Load Port for the load is:
a/ low voltage cutout
b/ being able to see the PV/charge/load characteristics over the network
If you continued reading as far as post 16, you'd see a contradictory quote
"I’m sorry, but this is nonsense. MPPT charge controllers have no ‘PWM mode’."
Can you quote a reputable source?
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/any-problem-mppt-charge-controllers.17130/post-239905
If you follow the...
Ah!
that would explain the weird pin numbering in the Renology manual
I'd completely failed to notice they are different products.
I guess because so many ebay type offerings are the same thing under different names.
This was discussed recently
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/147-volts-dc-will-not-pass-thru-breaker-yes-breaker-is-on.72644/page-3#post-958803
A hostile environment certainly makes a grease attractive, but you need to know your rubber before you select your grease.
A Dialectic Grease would be...
I've been searching for a paper, but just come up with 'received wisdom' from other forums - it's as bad as twatter!
It does however make sense that cold welding (bonding at the atomic level) gives a better electrical connection than wetting the copper with tin/lead.
ignoring the bits I don't agree with - what sort of NiFe cells do you have? I've always had an interest in NiFe, but not gone down that path.
Did you buy commercial cells or roll-your-own?
What exactly do you mean by:
Charging profile? unsuitable terminal voltage?
Looking for an easy solution to power a (say 120mm muffin) fan at a remote site.
Currently the setup is 100V from PV's that only feed a pump controller, so no batteries, no low voltage.
Obvious solutions start with a DC fan, but I've never seen one
Next is DC-DC converter with a suitable input...
Good points - thanks.
This one is 5V 20A, so unsuitable for a variety of reasons (it just happened to be within reach).
Having a voltage doubler is a complication I don't need for this project.
Sounds like you used an acid flux. (not from our grandfathers toolshed was it?)
Flux is great, but you need to choose carefully.
A modern Rosin flux will give excellent results.
I suggest RMA223 intended for surface mount components
for more info on fluxes...
Unless I'm missing something, Power Factor (PF) is only relevant to AC circuits and can be ignored.
As for the cable, for a given current, the voltage drop is a constant regardless of system voltage.
Compare 10V @10A vs 100V @10A on the same cable with 1V drop.
the 10V system will give you 9V...
Ok, yep, both situations that would suit parallel connections.
Unless otherwise specified, it's reasonable to assume the panels are pointing north (or south depending where you live). Boats of course are a whole bag of trouble.
The OP has two panels, so that's the sort of scale I was thinking.
Thanks for your replies.
One approach I've used elsewhere is not to tap into the "big" system, but simply add a dedicated (say 30W) panel and 24-12V DC-DC to spin a fan when ever there is light. I've installed this style in my workshop to stop is baking in summer (it would often get to 60C in...
I agree with using breakers for convenience and that fuses serve little purpose.
Here's my thinking:
- if you select a fuse rating 'less' than Isc, you will blow the fuse when operating within normal spec.
- if you select a fuse rating 'higher' than Isc, even with a shorted cable or reverse...
I bought a USB cable along with my first AN reg. It is definitely an Exar device.
For me, the USB cable was great to get the first one setup, but converting to ethernet is more practical as more reg's are added.
+1
Unless you really need low voltage, higher voltage has many benefits including thinner cable for the same loss and increased hours of useful output per day.
As for fuses, under what circumstances would a fuse in the PV feed blow?
If both the positive and negative become shorted:
Something has gone seriously wrong
You can't get a shock (it's shorted)
Put an over rated Double-Pole switch on the feed and worry about the important things.
I've installed one of that type from my own use in the deep bore. I ordered direct and got a special build - for a modest additional fee (and waiting for delivery instead of local dispatch) I received a pump with 50m of cable.
The two advantages are:
1. there are no joins under water
2. I'm...
I Just looked it up on wiki
"Multi-Connect" was the company name before it was changed to STÄUBLI
The MC3 was also theirs and as you describe, the "3" refers to a 3mm contact pin
The "N" on the AN, BN etc series designate them as "Negative Common" (positive switched), so the negative terminals are always tied together.
The typical non-MPPT SCC is 'positive common' (negative switched).
Absolutely.
For short lengths, you can get way just about anything, but twisted pair is recommended (making Cat5 perfect).
You could just use a fully wired ethernet cable, giving Orange-white & Blue on RS485-A and Blue-White & Orange on RS485-B (two pairs for each).
The downside is it will...
I've thought about this over the years and settled on the following:
When closed, the dies leave a (repeatable) 2D area.
If you are able to crimp the cable/connector perfectly, the result will be 100% metal within the crimp area
If you end up with wings, some of the metal has escaped and...
While I agree, it doesn't really apply here.
The higher the capacitance, the greater the ability to smooth transients.
Too low and it doesn't really do anything
Too high just costs more, but doesn't really work any better.
Neither too large or too small should result in catastrophic failure...
A "good" crimp is significantly better than soldering as described above, but a gotcha for soldering is the solder wicks up the filaments making it very stiff. The point the solder stops acts as a sharp stress concentrator that can easily become the fracture point.
Also good!
I've used my...
I have to admit I was also skeptical when I was first told crimping was better, but when you realise all automotive, aviation and military connections require crimp connections in most applications, it does look convincing.
That of course is a problem - I've lost count of the different crimping...
I've only used it on Win7 - sorry, can't help with Win10.
You are using the OEM USB cable?
I just plugged mine in and it reported as a COM port.
RS485 is a One controller / multi-slave bus, so it's the Device ID that allows you to address a specific device on the bus (AN SCC in this case)
The...
Just re-read your post. When you say "original' you are not talking about the silver Tracer are you?
If so, it won't work on an RS485 adapter as it speaks RS232 instead.
No idea 'why'. It was working fine until I moved it, then nothing. On its own display, it looks like its trying, but it's set to 24V (not auto), so just thinks the battery is flat.
As for the behaviour, it 'looks' normal, but no comms out the RS485 port.
I've tried the MT50, the USB cable...
Thanks for the reply.
Normally these pumps ship with a 2m power cable, but I got this one built with full length cable so there was no need for underwater splices and sourcing waterproof cable - naturally, delivery was a bit slower, but it wins on several other fronts.
Yep - it's an impeller...
Something like this will do the job. mount the drum on it's side with the big hole down.
Assemble the pipe fittings to seal the heater in place.
Fill with water, but leave the top hole open to prevent it pressurizing
I understand your point, but please give an exact number you consider acceptable (you don't accept mine).
I have justified what is acceptable in my operating condition (and why).
Could you show me the maths for this please?
Making a bunch of assumptions, my numbers come out at 146.7V allowing...
A "SURGEFLO" HaHaHa - as close to Sureflo as you can get without being sued!
When I bought my first (looks the same as above), it was supplied with a Replacement "screw" (as described by the manufacture).
It looks like this:
Now you've made me look, everything in that case now does seem to...
I think the only real purpose of having two serial ports is to simplifying the cabling (RS485 allows multiple devices to be daisy-chained on a single serial cable).
Making a daisy-chain cable require some skill and the correct tools to make, where as two sockets allows the use of 'standard'...
Hi @Kilowatt Saver, I don't use win10, so may not be able to offer you much help, but someone here must have it working on Win10.
Best guess is you have the MS driver and it is not full-functional. Get the 'real' driver from the chips manufacturer (not some dodgy malware site)...
The above two systems are still behaving well, so I added a cap to the third system where the battery is routinely disconnected.
This time I used a 10000uF 25V and works just almost as well as the other two.
Watching the Batt. Voltage graphs, there is a little oscillation when the battery is...
Following their own test procedures, it's the FETs that are blown.
The two big electrolytics are across the supply, so don't work hard at all.
I picked up the fresh FETs tonight, so I'll have them installed in the original controller early next week.
Can't read the model number, but the pumps I've seen in that case are all screw type.
For the final install, a better pump with a soft-start controller may be a better option.
Fair enough.
My gear isn't exposed to unpredictable swings like that, so I could live with a 10V margin.
Everyone should take advice as guidance only and take into account their local conditions.
Personally I've networked all my SCC's, so I've been able monitor "my" real world conditions.
I think you'd end up with the properties of the lower performing medium as a limiting value.
For the reasons you list, concrete would take up heat faster than sand, but would have a much lower Tmax
for some light reading
inis.iaea.org/collection/NCLCollectionStore/_Public/28/057/28057515.pdf...
update.
The pump comes with a 2 year warranty and as it was 25 months, the best I could do was a bit of a discount on a new controller.
The new controller worked for about a week before it too failed.
"it must be the motor" I was then told. "Test the windings" Windings tested perfect.
"Must...
@kommando , apart from an academic interest, design vs manufacturing issue, I don't really care - it should not have failed.
@gfjardim , what pumps do you use? and what inverters? Obviously I need something better than what I have.
I'm thinking this is a very good idea.
My first pump was only capable of 67m head, but still it split the caseing (poor manufacturing most likely).
Just wondering what sort of PRV you have found?
Never heard of a MPPT controller pretending to be a PWM controller - have you got a link?
The Vmp is a panel characteristic and not the voltage the controller will attempt to maintain. (the controller knows nothing about your panel/s and will track the I-V curve for the current conditions)
Two of my batteries were in very poor condition (ID's 3&4).
I replaced both today and with new batteries, I wanted to clear the stats and start fresh.
Then I discovered you con do a factory reset, but you can't clear the stats without a "Root" Password
For the next person looking to clear...
Depends if you just want the pump to work in the middle of the day (20W panel might do), or for 'most' of the day.
A nominal 12V panel in the 40~60W range would be my choice, then use a DC-DC regulator set to 12V as the panel is capable of ~21V
Update.
As an interum solution, I fitted a Pentax (italian) wet-end to my motor and put it back in service.
While is was stripped, I replaced the motor bearings (the chinese bearing were 'ok', but cheap/rough). A new set of NSK's has it a lot quieter.
What oil do you use to fill the motor...
Apologies, it's been a while.
The 'power of 4' equation is the radiation flux - which goes a long way to explain why insulation becomes so important as temp rises.
Some light reading for those not afraid of partial differential equations...
Thanks @upnorthandpersonal .
An interesting project, but at this stage, I'm not trying to read the data with a Pi, I 'simply' want to put the regs on my local network.
However, logging to a Pi and putting that on the network may be a better approach.
Hmm .. yeah, it can be uncooperative.
If the USB drivers don't load automatically, you've got to find your own.
Once it's running, it gives you a lot of control.
Your 'junk box' might be a draw under the TV or a box in garage where you toss retired but working 'things' you don't have an immediate use for, but too good to throw out.
A 110V-12VDC wall wart for example (my RS485-Ethernet bridge didn't come with a wall wart).
The bridge I'm using is the...
the best conclusion I can draw is that it's an economic limit, not an electrical limit.
Once you pass 150~200% panel capacity, you should increase SCC capacity to make the most of it.
The LS-03B (from your chart) also go up to 6mm^2, so they'd be fine.
Have a shop around as you'll often find the complete tool for not much more than a set of jaws.
Hi all, I use several systems (PV, SCC, Battery) in a way the SCC manufacture says you shouldn't do (hence posting in this section).
In order to keep [portable genset, mower, tractor, etc.] batteries from going flat when not used, I've got them on their own chargers.
This works really well, but...
I hadn't come across 1500V MC4's until a mate turned up with a panel with them fitted.
I can see they need different tools to assemble, but are they otherwise compatible?
He'll only be using the panel as a single, so the voltage won't be high.
For this application, is there any reason not to...
Yeah, they did.
The older (RN) SCC speak RS232 and their display is the MT-5
The newer SCC speak RS485 and their display is the MT-50
(RS232 is ok, but only works between two devices. RS485 is more suitable as it allows many devises on a single cable and is suitable for much longer cables)...
Great!
Just making sure you were aware of ways it might not behave as you want.
I'm thinking you want some sort of indicator to flag that one of the breakers has tripped.
If I may, I'll reword that statement.
If you don't understand why a phenomenon happens, you can't (reliably) apply it to other situations.
A second point to remember is that if someone offers an analogy to explain a situation; the analogy doesn't prove the original statement is true and...
Ah - ok.
I don't need hugely accurate readings - mostly just to keep an eye on the multiple systems to make sure they are working correctly.
I use a combination of Wifi, UTP and fibre to allow my regs to be interrogated simultaneously over a wide area (and from anywhere with internet)
Both the...
Rather than use 20% efficient PV panels, use 60% efficient evacuated tube water heating panels.
You could use ET's for daytime a PV/battery for night, but I think you'd be better storing the heat as 'heat'.
What temp range are you trying to maintain?
Now I know what to look for, yes, I'm seeing it - but.
This plot is from this mornings sunrise. The PV voltage comes up to the battery voltage and is "clamped" there.
These panels are oriented true north, so even at this time of year, it take 30min before the panels are usefully illuminated.
The...
An easy work-around is to use the smaller holder and wire two 100A fuses in parallel to give 200A
12V at 750W is 62A. You could wire two sockets in parallel, but only fit one 100A fuse until you add more load.
try this
https://www.epever.com/upload/file/2107/EPEVER-Datasheet_Tracer-BN.pdf
Charge Controller or the new (beta) Solar Guardian should both work. (SG is a bit half baked at this stage, but looks promising)
For firmware, you need to contact support directly and ask...
Small update - I've ordered a Meanwell RS-15-24 (15W, 24V). In their product selector, it is only shown as AC input, but the datasheet shows it as also 120~380VDC input.
If I choose carefully, the fan will only be 5W, so I'm hoping it won't notice the input voltage is max. 105V...
Under what circumstances would a 15A fuse blow while "protecting" a 100W panel?
[making an assumption your 100W panel is 21Voc, that's about 5A]
So I repeat the question: When will a 5A panel blow a 15A fuse?
Fuses are one of the simplest electronic components, but still poorly understood.
A...
Well spotted.
I stared at it thinking it's exactly what I've been trying to do with the EE11A.
Then it occurred to me the RS485 should be on an RJ45 like all the other EPSolar/EPEver/Tracer devices.
So I had a look at the official EPSolar & EPEver sites and there is no mention of this...
Thanks, but to clarify - are 1000V and 1500V MC4's physically compatible?
It's a 450W panel (fairly large), so it's probably about 10A out. By it's self, it doesn't exceed the electrical spec of 'normal' MC4, but I'm always careful mixing connector series.
To me, it doesn't seem sensible for...
Quoting from their Doc.
It is hereby stated that TS4 Connectors used in aforementioned Trina Solar module types are compatible with the MC4 connector
https://www.pvo-int.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/DL2019-132.pdf
reading that, I wouldn't be paying $30 for adapter cables
For that purpose...
Yes - poor, but not negligible. I assume anyone putting together an array with such a spread of panels is on a tight budget and probably wants every Watt they can get.
first - that's not how I'd do it.
I found a house about to be demolished and did a deal where I stripped 12x 270W panels from...
Ok - that's just dumb.
Now that I've networked all my SCC's, I've put the display aside and it's unlikely to see the light of day again. If you hadn't pointed it out, I probably would have never noticed.
Seems I've got the EE11A, not the EE11.
As far as I have determined, they are the same, but the 'A has a wider operating supply voltage.
As you can see, if you have an RJ45 crimping tool, the cable can be very neat
These are the communication options offered:
Thanks @Symbioquine , that's the pinout I've used, except I've used pins 1,8 to power the EE11.
One thing I found a bit disturbing is that the MT-50 manual shows a different pinout.
The numbering is the same, but the physical pin numbers is ... strange.
I can load the EE11's web page and set...
Any appropriately rated change-over switch would do the job.
There are plenty of purpose made switches sold for the purpose. Typically, battery isolator switches offer Off, A, B, A+B input options.
They are commonly used on trucks and boats if you are looking for a local stockist.
Hi All. First post - have to start somewhere.
I run a collection of single panel systems:
one for a water pump
one for security camera and electric fence energiser
three for keeping start-batteries in good condition when their equipment is not being used.
I've replaced all the PWM CC's with...
Well spotted - thanks
(at least someone read my post!)
The point is, 0.5W is not enough power to run the ZLAN adapter
Not sure where I got 50mA from, but I got 12V from the MT-50 manual
For a reality check, I put a meter on the reg and it is 5V
Update:
my Network Cable Tester arrived, so I was able to go over the data cables I'd made and to put it simply - I hadn't done a good job. I think the problem is the 4-core telephone cable is a bit thinner than Cat5 cable and the crimped pins don't make reliable contact.
I could have tested it...
If it goes bad, I'll post pics!
It's been six months with many connects/disconnects and the SCC's all seem happy.
The wild glitches are gone and you can barely see a transient on the graphs.
From what I'm seeing, I wouldn't go lower than 10000uF and my preference would be for double that.
That would work.
You could also use a common RJ45 wall socket and only punch down (connect) the four data lines.
Strictly you'd only need two, but:
1. that would leave one pair floating and effectively put the SCC in the middle of a cable twice as long your run (not sure that makes it clear)
2...