Recent content by Rainwater01

I’m with you. It might work but I’d rather heat my toaster not my wires. :)

Yeah. It does seem that the red and black are line and load but 12awg is too small for 50, let alone a surge of 200. I saw the 3 pin connector in the photo and thought that might be for the shunt.

Do you have the instructions for that? The devices I’ve seen for measuring current and voltage require a shunt. That would need to connect to a shunt and battery power I think. You’re on the right track. The best way to learn is to put something together and play with it. A dc amp clamp meter is...

Well, what all have you figured out?

I’m a dealer/installer so that’s not a problem. when you own something and can dive into it daily you get a more intimate understanding of the unit and it’s nuances. I may be able to answer my own questions soon, as I should have mine up and running tomorrow. I installed one last year and I...

Now that you’ve had it a while do you still like it? I installed one for a client and will be finishing mine this weekend and would like to pick your brain on a few things If possible.

No problem. I think it’s because the conductors have to have exactly the same characteristics or else more current will flow over one conductor and overload it. The smaller the conductor the more chance of an overloaded conductor. Like you said sizing the breaker for the smallest conductor...

Found the code reference.

Your post says 10/3 copper so you should have black white red and ground. That’ll give you 120/240 right now. If so you can get the new inverter and run a test on it. Voltage drop shouldn’t be as bad if you can separate it evenly. Others have posted the voltage drop numbers. how many bends do...

All of a sudden it’s just going to make sense for you! Voltage is like pressure Amperage is the flow of current Wattage is actual Work being done at that moment 12 volts @ 10 amps = 120 watts 120 volts @ 1 amp = 120 watts its the same amount of work being done. But that’s all an...

Good thread. A couple things to think about... Whatever power you use at night you'll need enough solar to replace that in the batteries and run the loads you need during the day. So just enough solar to replace the energy in the batteries won't be quite enough. I know some will be used during...

Well said and exactly the answer for which I was looking. I guess you could parallel 4 12v batteries to a bus bar and get your per battery amperage down to around 38. It probably matters more on lead acid than lithium where the efficiency drops a lot when the amperage increases.

Nice system. You did a good job installing it. Are those 2 volt batteries?

Out of curiosity… what’s the down side of running 24 volts on these campers? If I was building one that’s the way I would go. An 1800 watt load pulls 150 amps on the 12 volt side but only 75 amps on a 24 volt system. They make plenty of converters to step back down to 12 volts for lights etc if...

Correct me if I’m wrong but I don’t think the fuse is necessary. Even with a direct short it won’t trip the fuse. 50 amps seems ok from the scc to the battery. I assume you’ll go much larger for the inverter?