Hi all,
We have made a wooden electrical box that stores our batteries, MPPT charge controller, converter, bus bars, DC fuse box, and our inverter. We were wondering what would be the best option to create access to inverter outputs. Should we cut a rectangle hole at the height the inverter is...
Thank you all. We are getting back to this project again. We have been trying to find the thick wood support under the roof surface with a stud finder. It's kind of hard since the roof has some surface bumps (it's not locally super flat). Based on our markings on the roof, there are trusses...
Hi all,
What is the best option to combine Overkill Solar BMS wires for either C- or B- into 1 wire so it can be hooked up to Battery negative? I think each wire is 10 AWG.
Can we put a ring terminal on each end and connect to a piece of copper bar and have a wire coming from the battery...
Thank you all for your inputs. Based on your answers, we feel safe using only one roof entry hole for both.
On a related note, are there any other things we need to watch for when picking a place for the LTE/internet router inside the RV? Based on our research some devices like inverters...
Hi all,
We were wondering if it is accepted to use a common hole roof entry for both the:
LTE antenna cables ( Poynting MIMO-3-17 )
Solar panel cables ( combined cables of 4 x 100 W PV panels)
The hole is probably going to be going through our PV combiner box ( we have purchased a big box for...
Thank you for this note. Does that mean in this picture the stud is not electrically connected to the base? So if the lugs that sit on top of the MRBF touch the stud, they would not bypass the fuse?
Thank you for the tip about WAYTEK. We also had noticed that BlueSea reselling other brand products.
Thank you all for your replies. We educated ourselves a bit more about all these subjects especially neutral/ground bonding.
Based on our research and also some questions on Amazon product pages (ATS Question, Inverter Question), looks like our Go Power TS-30 ATS does not automatically bond the...
Thank you @smoothJoey and @mikefitz for your comments.
You two are both right about the fuse rating for the fuse in between the (+) bus bar and the inverter. In our initial draft of the diagram, we had a bigger fuse size (Here is another thread regarding those choices). When we noticed that we...
Hi @Whinny , thanks.
Yes, the roof seems to have a coat of black substance (could be silicon paint). The stud finder would be useful to find those 2x2 lumbers under the aluminum. We haven't noticed any visible aluminum nails. The previous owner has taken the AC unit/vent out and has covered it...
Hi all,
Thank you for all your help so far in this wonderful forum. Here is the latest diagram that we have with wire lengths and ratings as well as fuse/breaker ratings included:
Wire Location
Max Length (ft)
Wire Gauge (AWG)
Fuse/Breaker Rating (Amp)
Solar Panels to Combiner Box
18.5
6...
Thank you @HRTKD for including a link to your write-up. It's a really great resource.
@Q-Dog, we also were completing about that idea and probably going to end up removing a vent when the weather is nicer.
When we step on the front side of the roof, it kind of feels like we are walking on a...
Hi all,
We have a class C 1986 Ford E-350 (Vanguard 1985) motorhome. We were wondering about the best fastener solution for strut channels and/or solar panel brackets to the roof. We are planning to install the panels on the front (the cab roof).
Would we just screw them to the roof (and...
@TedH , did you take any photos of your setup/install? What type of vehicle did you use this setup for?
Also what type/material is your roof made of? Do you have a link to the rivet nuts you used?
We also have a WiFi/LTE antenna that needs to go on the roof. So we were/are hoping to also run the wire cables from the antenna through the combiner box hole. Is it a good idea to run PV solar cables along with antenna cables in the same conduit/hole?
Thank you @HaldorEE . Yes, the inverter is...