Recent content by slipperysam

Interesting, I didn't know about the possibility of exceeding ISC. So then fuse/ampacity should be 1.56*4*10.39A = 64.83A. I didn't mention this but between the combiner box and my SCC is a disconnect switch that happens to use a 2-pole 63A breaker. Seems serendipitous! I would think rating for...

I just need to verify some fundamentals here. I've currently got a 2s3p array of 400w panels, each 48.9 voc and 10.39 isc. The distance between the combiner box and the SCC is about 6'. I'm using 10awg for that run. With my 24V battery bank charging begins at about 35V which happens quite early...

To follow up, that's correct, we rented a house for just a year to do this bus build and I was plugging the multiplus into the exterior outlet of this house once we finished the electrical system. We move out tomorrow and will be on the road from now on! And I have my progressive industries...

I see, thank you for your help and additional context. This is all new to me, including RVing, so every bit helps. Took your advice and got a hold of a Progressive Industries 50A tester to avoid this situation in the future. Plugged it into the troublesome outlet (with my 15A - 30A, 30A - 50A...

Could I protect myself from improperly grounded shore outlets in the future with a GFCI breaker? Either as my main breaker in my AC panel or just an inline breaker on the shore inlet before the Multiplus?

Interesting. Are you basically saying that my idea of attaching a rod to the chassis to drive into the earth is a reasonable idea? I thought it outlandish because I've never heard of anyone else installing this in their mobile dwellings. Would this only be relevant for an ungrounded shore...

I have read that, and re-read it for good measure. I still find it odd that my bus was almost exactly 120V from the earth. The neutral from the ungrounded outlet was presumably bonded to earth ground at the main panel of the house. So, the neutral should have the same potential as the earth and...

We have now felt this a couple times when opening the metal door of our recently converted bus. For context, our electrical system is largely based on Explorist.Life diagrams (e.g. this one) with a few diversions (24v battery bank, no alternator charging, both 12v and 24v distribution, and a 50a...

Yeah I saw the WFCO panel, it's similar to the offerings from Progressive Dynamics. Perhaps my build is peculiar? But I have a number of AC uses... The minisplit, water heater, induction cook top, and oven each have a dedicated circuit. A couple 20A outlets in the kitchen, one exterior 20A as...

For posterity, the answer is: backfeed a main breaker. If you wanted to use one of those small breaker boxes from Home Depot that only cost around $40, but they have a main lug instead of a main breaker, just get yourself a single pole 50a breaker that fits in your breaker box, and instead of...

Yeah I've seen those but, it does seem a tad silly to use a $700 dollar AC panel when there is likely one from Amz / Home Depot for under $50. Maybe I should rephrase my post to a TL;DR: Does there exist an AC panel with 1. a main breaker (~50A) 2. a grounding bar 3. between 5-10 breaker...

I can't seem to find a small breaker box that fits my needs, but perhaps I am misunderstanding how they work. I am very new to this. I only have 10 AC circuits planned, all 15-20A. I'd like a small breaker box that fits at least 5 tandem breakers to support these in addition to a main breaker...

I suppose that's the whole point of programming them to be parallel single phase, come to think of it, huh? So the AC-out would look just like my diagram for AC-in, each L,N,G wire would just combine together before going to the inlet of a single AC distribution panel. That does seem rather...

I have; in the normal mode, the smaller ones consume 11W each at idle, and the quattro consumes 30W. So, some savings there. So you mean, from a single phase 120V 30a inlet, take that 10 awg triplex, and just split the wires to each inverter? That seems easy. Pic attached to make sure I...

So my power needs on the AC side aren't all that big. Everything's 120V, and I have a few larger AC appliances (induction top, oven, and water heater) which each pull roughly between 1200W-1800W when they're blasting. Let's also assume my minisplit is often cooling me off at 600W. My dilemma is...