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Thanks for your input! I really like SE, and being in Europe that's easier to source. I'll try to see if I can get their support.

Hi! I don't understand the type of terminals they have. How do you connect them?

I'm also very interested in the responses...

Hi. My current multi meter only reads 2 decimal places in DC current. Not the best for LiFePo4 cells... As such I need a new multi meter, preferably quite reliable, and on the cheap(ish) side. yeah... I checked a Fluke just for fun, and got quite scared with the 1k price tag So, requirements...

Considering just "Grade A" cells (whatever that really means) from NKON or Luyuan, why choose one over the other? (no horror stories, just facts, please, like # of cycles, costs, etc) Thinking about a second battery bank (first being LF280k, still not assembled) for mobile application...

Thank you very much for your description! I don't know much about pressure, pressure distribution among several pressure sources (double the number of springs means half the pressure each spring needs to produce for a constant pressure, or is it non linear?), pressure change along spring...

Regarding the SE 865-DCBRK-250, I was not able to find any info if it is or not polarized, and as such if it's usable in a battery bank as a disconnect switch (under load). (Use case in 160 max amps.) Where can I get that info? Thanks in advance!

Hi! Could you please send me a link to the springs you used in your fixture? The picture's right battery seems to show them almost bottoming out, or is it just the photo's angle? Thanks in advance

Watching out of curiosity of JK BMSs and communication with Victron...

Thanks! The top right Orion... is it for 24v to 12v conversation? I was meant to also use 2 Orion for 12v to 24v but you got me thinking...

Slightly off topic: Which tester is this? Thanks

I don't recommend any BMS, though I bought JK for dual 24v battery bank

Thanks, @Alkaline , your response is appreciated as I know you've been tracking quite a few buyers. More food for thought... I didn't though about the LF230, but as I'll have plenty of capacity with the new battery, maybe that could also be a possibility. So now it's LF280k Vs 304 Vs LF230...

Why did you choose that over having redundancy?

Many thanks for your suggestions and thoroughly description. I'll investigate the units you mentioned. Forgot to say that being easy to buy in EU was a bonus. Again, thanks for your reply!

Hi! How much is your box insulated, what kind of ambient temperature are they subject to and what type of cells are they? Is overheating an issue with your setup? I'm about to build a 24v battery based on 280Ah Eve cells for an RV, and I'm thinking about putting them in a metal box to prevent...

Another alternative is upgrading your DIY 48v battery to 96v, but that's a totally different game...

You agree on something. You pay the price in full. You receive a portion of what has been agreed. Until new agreement is achieved, someone should be pi$$ed...

Bonjour @oliagri Thanks for this table. I'm not fully understanding it: a) what is the unit of measure inside the tables? kgf? N? b) I can't understand how a bigger spring is able to produce less force c) what is the compression at which it will reach the maximum specified force Do you have...

Or online without outrageous shipping / tax costs

So why would they start at 30-40% with a given compression? Why bother with a given compression apparatus? (they have the schematics there) I would believe that they make testing under optimal conditions so they can brag about the product and it's cycle / capacity results...

2x 8 cells is at least 90kg Will it be moved from the place where it will be built?

Thanks for all your info. Having just bought a MultiPlus-II 24/5000/120-50, and seeing people on the web using such procedure, I'm right now trying to also understand why, and how. How do you know your Multiplus is charged? Voltage comparation? How one do it manually?

Thanks for reporting. Were those A Grade (dual bolt terminal) or advertised as such? Where were they bought from? Thanks in advance!

Hi. I'm about to build a battery (24v, 8x EVE LF280k, 200A BMS) to be used in a Class B RV (max 130A draw). I'm thinking about putting the cells and BMS inside a metal box (in the garage, also properly insulated) to mitigate fire risk, but I'm fearing overheating could be prejudicial. What is...

Hi Be careful in the reconnection moment. If you don't want to have huge current inrush, both batteries should be at the same SOC. And this is one of the reasons why a Class-T fuse is (almost) mandatory

Thanks for the lengthy reply. Given the cells I'm waiting for, It seems that using an alu busbar is preferable. Do you agree? Thanks for your opinion!

Even if the num of cells, or exact force they produce at a given compression is not accurate, the math there teaches me how to work out my own scenario. Thanks!

Same question to @Bob B , how are you dealing with these risks...

Has anyone tried Luyuan's battery box, either this or the 24v (8s) version? Thanks in advance!

Thanks for sharing! What a beauty!!

Now that this one is done, any chance on a 24v 280k / 304 battery box for DIYers ?

Looking forward for your experiences in the braided busbars! What is the max amperage they handle?

Awesome having your feedback! I was reading through the thread's 19 pages, but haven't reached the end... I'm between JBD and JK ( especially the latter due to the active balancing features) so I'm interested in your experience... Was it easy to setup? Does the GX uses DVCC? Thanks in advance!

Hi! Still reading as much as I can on Fast Acting Class T fuses as I'm about to start building my first LiFePo4 battery (24v, 280ah cells). Could you please point me to the fuses and fuse holders that you're using (with success ) in your setup? Or are they really created equally, unlike most...

Thank you so much for your responses, not only here but all over the forum. Most, I just grasp the concepts, some I fully understand, but I always learn. Again, thanks!

Hi. I'm trying to learn as much as possible regarding DC load protection. I didn't understand your remarks regarding the symbols and this switch. Where is the marking? Does this means it cannot be used in a 24v LiFePO4 system under load? (max 160A in my case) Thanks in advance!

Damm Just noticed hgg's remarks regarding the manual! Dah...

Maybe those are questions to these thread? https://diysolarforum.com/threads/victron-venusos-driver-for-serial-connected-bms-llt-jbd-daly-smart-ant-jkbms-heltec-renogy.17847/

,Hi. Could you please point me to where the voltage drop in this switch is mentioned? (I'm reading this in my mobile, I probably missed it) Thanks

Hi. Due to time constraints on my side I was unable to do any cell related testing

Sorry for the ignorance, but shouldn't fuses be placed as near as possible to the source / battery? The way you described, the circuit from the battery to the fuse is not protected , right?

@Nami ?? I'm about to buy BMSs for my long term living RV. How can one trust this types of batteries for an RV?? One cannot afford to be hung without any power so easily!! What have others done to prevent this??

Interesting topic. Another important aspect is the hability to be able to drill and tap a hole to join BMS cables

Thanks! Dammm I was not expecting that... Trying to learn as much as possible... why do you think that? "strange" form factor? other? Regards

Very interesting post!! Thanks for sharing! Please remember that what is in the spec sheet is 3 rods per side, which is ignored by most builders. That will allow a much spread load... Regards!

Thank you very much for your suggestions. I ended buying the ANENG AN870 (due to cost considerations) and the UNI-T UT210E. Again, thanks for your support

Setup: - 24v - 2 batteries (8x 280Ah) - max consumption 160A (from both batteries) Would you consider this 4 position rotary switch for your campervan? (to be used as disconnect, or battery switcher, if maintenance needs arise) I know that it's not the one in the forum documentation, but it...

Sorry for the slight thread highjack, but what would you recommend as a 24v LiFePO4 battery disconnect? Thanks in advance!

Also interested in this, would like to see what appears here with compression as described by EVE for their LF280k