Recent content by Tyler702

Thank you both for your quick reply. I appreciate it very much! Got it hooked up, and all is good now!

I'm installing a Victron 500A smart shunt into my system, however, I'm not sure which post the charge controller negative cable should be attached? Common battery neg post or the other side of the shunt? The picture depicts only the neg lines. All positives are attached to 1 common distribution...

See steve s' bad-ass schematic? Where the batteries all connect to the 2 distribution post/busbars, that is where you'd connect your converter to. I'd say a 40 or 50A inline fuse between the battery and converter would be sufficient to protect that circuit.

I may misunderstand your schematic, but it looks like you're wanting to power some 12V devices, hence the 24V to 12V buck converter? I have 2 of these wired to my 24V battery bank common bus bars...

I bought these 2 in March of this year to put into series for my 24V system, saved about $100 instead of just buying a single 24V200Ah battery. Not to mention the size of a single Ampere Time12V200Ah battery is nearly the same as a single Ampere Time24V200ah battery. They've been cycled maybe...

About that heltic active balancer... Not to get off topic, but I'm on my second one, and I have yet to meter anything over 900mA - 1 Amp during balancing, even when the cells are dramatically unbalanced. It's supposed to be a "5A" version, but I call bs on that. I've double checked terminal...

changed cell positions within the pack.. problem follows cell. So yup, I've got 2 dud cells. Good news is however, I broke out 4 of the good cells and added another 200Ah to my 12V milkcrate boondock camping setup. I think I'll use the 2 duds as target practice on my next outing.. Won't that be...

That could work too. I have a 24V system, but they do offer that flavor. I just wish I could find strictly an inverter. Don't need the inverter/charger/hybrid combos, nor anything tied to the grid. I think this particular one requires to be plugged into a 240Vac source for pass thru and charging...

Power Factor Correction. Ok.. thanks for that. Looking into that now! Research never ends..lol

Yea, I'm posting over there as well. There may be a specific nissan quirk about MSW vs PSW, but really, makes me wonder if most EV's care or not. A quick check, shows an AIMS 5000W 240VAC MSW for $589 and an AIMS 6000W 120/240 PSW for $1816, so yea.. that extra grand is kinda important!

My L2 EVSE is a 15A version plugged into a 240V dryer plug in my garage, but I really want to charge it off Grid, I have plenty of battery and panels. My thinking was, since I'm not really powering sensitive electronics, and the car has its own onboard charger, it would act as the middleman...

I'm considering getting a dedicated 4000 or 6000W 240V inverter strictly for L2 charging of my 2015 Leaf. Any reason I can't opt for a modified sinewave unit instead of full blown PSW? The cost difference is big, and it will be strictly for charging batteries. Is it critical?

I did top balance, yes. Had em offline for about 2 weeks on my bench and took my time. And yes, I'm not the kind to always charge to 100% every time. By 28V I guess they're close enough. I guess I was just trying to figure out how to lower the current once they start getting past 90% or so SOC...

I have an 8S 200Ah DIY pack, and its become clear that I have 2 problem cells. 1 in particular reaches 3.65V while the others are still just a tad over 3.4V. Obviously the BMS charging switch turns off. Once the 1 cell, and the rest of the pack settles down, the charging switch turns back on...

Start with your controller settings first. Here's a link to assist: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/recommended-charge-profile-for-diy-lifepo4-batteries-sticky-post.5101/ Do you have enough power coming from your panels to engage the controller?