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3000 Watt Inverter Fuse

I don't think anyone was disputing 4/0 wire for this amperage. I didn't mention it because it wasn't asked, that's all.

Yes I have 4/0 cable but I agree it is good to mention for this threads completeness. I have a felling it will turn out helpful.
 
I was thinking of the lurker who didn't have that context. I couldn't think of a way to phrase my response to seem less critical.

Fair enough, and a good point. I learned most of what I know by lurking here. I don't just mean about solar, I mean about life :LOL:
 
I think the entire idea of using 3000W 12V inverter borders on criminal activity! Nobody should even be allowed to market a 3000W inverter at 12V. I consider that to be fraud! I'd like to see manufacturers actually demonstrate how they actually produce an honest 3000watts out of the box they claim is 3000W.

Has ANYONE here actually ever put a 3000W load on any of these products without anything getting fried? I don't believe anyone has. 48V is the proper system voltage for a REAL 3000W inverter. Maybe also 24V, but don't from the bottom tier products I see on this site.
 
Not all shorts are “hard” shorts where extreme currents conduct. That said, a 300A fuse will catch more shorts than a 400A fuse.

In addition the OP has presumable a built in derating for the inverter. Your calculation shows where fuse sizing gets out of hand. A 300A fuse protects the cable BETTER than a 400A fuse.

BTW OP, I got the 2500W inverter version. It’s solid, works well.
 
I think the entire idea of using 3000W 12V inverter borders on criminal activity! Nobody should even be allowed to market a 3000W inverter at 12V. I consider that to be fraud! I'd like to see manufacturers actually demonstrate how they actually produce an honest 3000watts out of the box they claim is 3000W.

Has ANYONE here actually ever put a 3000W load on any of these products without anything getting fried? I don't believe anyone has. 48V is the proper system voltage for a REAL 3000W inverter. Maybe also 24V, but don't from the bottom tier products I see on this site.

I used an AIMS 12 volt 3,000 watt inverter (UL listed version) for 2 years as my only power, and it was a tank. Ran everything I needed, even my Ryobi 12" miter saw. I never had a single problem with it. I'd recommend it to anyone.
 
3,000W would be the absolute limit I would recommend for a 12V battery system but I would urge you to at least consider 24V options. Sourcing good quality components that can safely operate at those kind of DC currents might well be more expensive than buying a 24V inverter + DC-DC converter.

It's a balancing act at that power level ... but it certainly isn't criminal whoever said that!
 
Interesting that I am the only person here who defended @Will Prowse , including all the mods.
Whatever.
 
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Will who?

Not seen him around these parts for years...


Just kidding, Will!
 
In the video when he gets to the matter of fuses he mentions that there are internal fuses but then skips the disconnecting means and fuses for the wire. If the wire is exposed and not very long the disconnecting means is probably more important then the fuse assuming that there are fuses inside of the unit.
 
I used an AIMS 12 volt 3,000 watt inverter (UL listed version) for 2 years as my only power, and it was a tank. Ran everything I needed, even my Ryobi 12" miter saw. I never had a single problem with it. I'd recommend it to anyone.
That certainly sounds robust. The fact that it is UL listed is the single most important criteria I would consider. Did you actually measure power consumption of the saw? I make it a habit to actually measure every electrical item I use and have real-world numbers to evaluate consumption.

During the construction of my carport last year I was pulling 2000W off the wellpump, 600W off the cement mixer (running from about 9am till 3pm), and another 500W off the circular saw (intermittent) throughout the day. So, I was pulling 2600-3100W throughout the day. That's supposed to be about 1/2 the rate max of my inverter.

I see the specs on that saw indicate 15amps max. Is that the starting amperage or the running amperage? Even if running, that's 1800W, just a bit more than half of 3000W. A more substantial test would have been that saw, and a toaster, both running at the same time. That would have gotten you close to 3000W?
 
I also have a 3000 watt inverter. I have a lot of 2 guage wire sitting around that I would like to use. Can someone help me to determine what circuit breaker max amperage I should use and why? Thanks in advance.
 
I also have a 3000 watt inverter. I have a lot of 2 guage wire sitting around that I would like to use. Can someone help me to determine what circuit breaker max amperage I should use and why? Thanks in advance.

You haven't told us the voltage. That makes a difference.

2 awg with 90 degree C insulation is good for 190A if single conductors in free air.
We would normally use heavier gauge wire for the inverter, unless it was at least 24V.

For 2 awg I would use 200 A max, because that is rounded up from 190A.
I normally use 125A for 2 awg when it is in a cable.

As for what breaker and wire should be used for the inverter, example calculations are given above.
Except, I've figured out that the current draw from the battery has a massive ripple, so its RMS value (and heating of the fuse or breaker) is more than those calculations say. So I would want it to be even larger.
 
You haven't told us the voltage. That makes a difference.

2 awg with 90 degree C insulation is good for 190A if single conductors in free air.
We would normally use heavier gauge wire for the inverter, unless it was at least 24V.

For 2 awg I would use 200 A max, because that is rounded up from 190A.
I normally use 125A for 2 awg when it is in a cable.

As for what breaker and wire should be used for the inverter, example calculations are given above.
Except, I've figured out that the current draw from the battery has a massive ripple, so its RMS value (and heating of the fuse or breaker) is more than those calculations say. So I would want it to be even larger.
Thank you for pointing that out and thank you for sharing this information. I have the same setup as the original post. 12 volts.
 
I think the entire idea of using 3000W 12V inverter borders on criminal activity! Nobody should even be allowed to market a 3000W inverter at 12V. I consider that to be fraud! I'd like to see manufacturers actually demonstrate how they actually produce an honest 3000watts out of the box they claim is 3000W.

Has ANYONE here actually ever put a 3000W load on any of these products without anything getting fried? I don't believe anyone has. 48V is the proper system voltage for a REAL 3000W inverter. Maybe also 24V, but don't from the bottom tier products I see on this site.
^ what this guy said.....3000W at 12V and every component / item in your system gets silly and magnified...cost, temp.

Go 24V or 48V guys. I have a 12v 2000W inverter systems and 1 x 24V 3000W inverter system....I like 12V for beginners but not at 3000W...why even bother...just go up to 24V.
 
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Thanks
After reading other replies going for
2 x 12v batteries in series
1 x 24v 3000w invertor (already purchased)
1 x 150amp fuse from invertor (+) to battery
1 x 12/24 charge controller
1 X 240w solar panel
Changing the cables to charge controller for larger ones
 

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