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diy solar

Custom Bus Bars From Copper Flat Bar

The new drill bits did a great job on my first test drill. This picture is right after the hole was drilled, with no dressing of the bar. There is a very slight burr around the edge. A quick pass with sandpaper will take care of that. I used a piece of scrap aluminum under the copper to prevent burrs on that side and it came out better than the top.

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@JJJJ, if you're going to order copper bar online, give it plenty of lead time. My first order took almost four weeks.
 
Lowest speed on my drill press and Tap Magic for lube.
Turned out really nice! What size is the hole? One thing I found was that as the drills get smaller you may want to increase the drill speed a little. When I was just starting drilling copper I had 3 small dia. drill bits in a row stick in the hold and brake. That may have been because of insufficient lube, too much pressure or dull as well so just take that with a grain of salt. After braking them I sharpened them all and also started using less pressure. Not scientific I know. Just something to consider if you run into the issue.

Got all mine done.

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@noenegdod, it looks like you ran into the same problem I have. The mounting surface heights are frequently different. I like the bus bars as shims under the shunt. (y)

I like how closely the copper bus bars allow the devices to be located, but height differences require a bit more effort and materials. I'm going to start with 1/4" plywood. I think I have some 1/8" plywood around here somewhere, but that stuff is kind of worthless.

I was thinking about how to put together strain relief for the cables. I might raid my kids old Lego sets. It doesn't get much more modular than Legos.
 
I dont really consider it a problem :) I just used calipers to measure the height differences and at some point, I will take the router and machine a pocket in the 3/4" plywood for the battery protects, the fuses will sit on the board and will just cut some blocks on the table saw to insert under the shunt. The top switch will just sit suspended and a block under one end of other switch. Its super simple, just may need a little trial and error to get it perfect.
 
@noenegdod, it looks like you ran into the same problem I have. The mounting surface heights are frequently different. I like the bus bars as shims under the shunt. (y)

I like how closely the copper bus bars allow the devices to be located, but height differences require a bit more effort and materials. I'm going to start with 1/4" plywood. I think I have some 1/8" plywood around here somewhere, but that stuff is kind of worthless.

I was thinking about how to put together strain relief for the cables. I might raid my kids old Lego sets. It doesn't get much more modular than Legos.
BEP solved that problem with their Pro Electrical Installer System.

Pro Electrical Installer System
 
Another source for copper bars is onlinemetals.com I used their nickel plated copper for buss bars 1/4” x1” - it worked out well.
 
Use split point drill bits , they don't walk around and drill easier and less heat . Heat will cause a lot of burrs .
I have used these for years and they are cheaper than the rest , and drill faster. When Burton Snow Boards first came out in the early 90's , I machined the aluminum angle plate , all of them. I drilled over 54K worth of holes with 1 cobalt screw machine drill bit (@ $1.75 at that time ).

I recommend using a c clamp or vise to hold down the part , because when you break thru, it usually will grab . Using a sacrificial piece of metal (not the drill table) underneath will eliminate the grabbing and less burrs. Use a fresh spot for each hole . I have been at this since 1977.
 
Any drill bit will wander, some more than others, especially in something as ductile as copper. Center cut end mills, as previously mentioned, are the perfect solution. Failing that, start the hole with a center drill or spot drill. Their whole point is no wandering. Then drill thru with any kind of standard bit.
 
Any drill bit will wander, some more than others, especially in something as ductile as copper. Center cut end mills, as previously mentioned, are the perfect solution. Failing that, start the hole with a center drill or spot drill. Their whole point is no wandering. Then drill thru with any kind of very sharp standard bit.
Added "very sharp"
 
Any drill bit will wander, some more than others, especially in something as ductile as copper. Center cut end mills, as previously mentioned, are the perfect solution. Failing that, start the hole with a center drill or spot drill. Their whole point is no wandering. Then drill thru with any kind of standard bit.
Most of the people out there do not have a Bridgeport mill to use a 1/4 end mill to drill holes . Drill presses wobble a lot and need a vise. And apparently you haven't used a split point drill bit. I can drill 1/4 holes, 1.5" deep in aluminum at 4000rpm at 100." per min an be within .0005" on size and location with a split point drill and get 50k holes life and still be sharp when i am done with the job at less at a couple for the drill bit.
I have been drilling holes in a machine shop for all most half a century.
 
Most of the people out there do not have a Bridgeport mill to use a 1/4 end mill to drill holes . Drill presses wobble a lot and need a vise. And apparently you haven't used a split point drill bit. I can drill 1/4 holes, 1.5" deep in aluminum at 4000rpm at 100." per min an be within .0005" on size and location with a split point drill and get 50k holes life and still be sharp when i am done with the job at less at a couple for the drill bit.
I have been drilling holes in a machine shop for all most half a century.
It sounds like you're a machinist, I was too in another life long ago ?

For the purpose of this discussion, a center cut end mill will work just fine in a decent drill press and vise. I don't think anybody's after .0005" accuracy. For me it's all about not having to deal with big honking burrs. I may have to go out and buy some split point drills now though...dammit!
 
Most of the people out there do not have a Bridgeport mill to use a 1/4 end mill to drill holes . Drill presses wobble a lot and need a vise. And apparently you haven't used a split point drill bit. I can drill 1/4 holes, 1.5" deep in aluminum at 4000rpm at 100." per min an be within .0005" on size and location with a split point drill and get 50k holes life and still be sharp when i am done with the job at less at a couple for the drill bit.
I have been drilling holes in a machine shop for all most half a century.
Most dont have a bridgeport mill, a continuous supply of coolant or the skills to resharpen split pont drill bits either. ;)
 
I worked for period of time as a planner scheduler in a machine shop. Have nothing but admiration for the skills needed to operate this equipment.
 
I put masking tape on my 3/16" copper bar stock ---a lot easier to mark my holes for layout -- dimpled with a center punch -- then I made a better center point with an 1/8" bit (not making a hole) -- went directly to 11/32" for my holes --- this particular time I used a Ryobi 12v drill with the bar clamped down on a wood bench --drilled like butter ---- For my first battery I used some 1/4" brass stock I had --Drilled the holes in the same method < but with my drill press ---- the 12v hand drill was much easier -- I'm told brass is harder to drill though
 
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