Well, other than Necroing an ancient thread from 2 years ago, the MBRF unit isn’t a bus bar, it’s just a fuse holder that holds 3 fuses. It also doesn’t have a negative bus bar. The Victron Lynx Distributor (rather than power in) has dual bus bars for both polarities, as well as 4 MEGA fuse holders.Wouldn't this be a more elegant, safer solution?
Understand it's 3 vs 4 and not 1000a, but 300a is plenty for most.
Am I missing something?
The advantage of MRBF is the interrupt capacity of the fuse. 10,000 amp at 14 volts. Also mega only rated to 32 volts. MRBF is good for those using 48 volts. This surface mount fuse block works as a positive BusBar. https://www.bluesea.com/products/5196/MRBF_Surface_Mount_Fuse_Block_-_Common_Source
2 yrs is 'ancient'? Wait, am I old now?
Sorry, I left some essential words/thinking out.
Initially I thought this was effectively 2 x seperate busbars, which it isn't, but could this not be easily modified into 2 x bus bars (assuming can dissasemble and remove &/or cut joining metal between the rows)? &/or the BlueSea 5196 https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-5196-Block-Common/dp/B0753F35Q8?th=1 (even buying both of these is half the cost of the Power-in, and a 3rd of Lynx distributor).
1 of which (or 5196) would serve the same function as the Victron Power-in positive bar w' (better MRBF) fuses, and the other half of 5191 (diy copper bar or 5196) bar as the negative?
I understand this likely(?) wouldn't be ideal for higher loads, complex setups, but thinking it would be safe for lower, smaller setups <250a? (Given it's a 300a rated block)
Coz - hey a busbar is just some metal with bolts rated to not melt and stuff, right?
Maybe?
Yes, I totally understand that re: separate bus bars, I just find that it is still overpriced for what it is, and if not the Lynx distributor - doesn't make the fuses visible (with the hack to the Power-in).The Victron is two separate bus bars (see my photo above). The one to the right (in the photo) is my main negative bus bar, connecting to the battery, inverter/charger, solar, and alternator. To the left is the positive bus bar, which feeds off to the same high current stuff via the MEGA fuses. These fuses are not being used for battery protection, as they don't have the interrupt capability, but are being used for circuit protection.
Yes, 10,000a is partly why I'm suggesting it (and speed/efficacy of the current interrupt, based on research).The advantage of MRBF is the interrupt capacity of the fuse. 10,000 amp at 14 volts. Also mega only rated to 32 volts. MRBF is good for those using 48 volts. This surface mount fuse block works as a positive BusBar. https://www.bluesea.com/products/5196/MRBF_Surface_Mount_Fuse_Block_-_Common_Source
Honestly, by the time I started pricing out all the other bits and pieces to do the distributor at an equal quality level, the distributer was cheaper and more compact (plus reliable).Yes, I totally understand that re: separate bus bars, I just find that it is still overpriced for what it is, and if not the Lynx distributor - doesn't make the fuses visible (with the hack to the Power-in).
I'd actually plan for the Power-In if factoring a larger system, but I don't think it's ideal for smaller, and still seems overpriced.
Thanks for clarifying re: your fuses.
Excuse me if I'm missing something (still a noob) - but why do you need "20kA intertuption capacity"?
The starting question was because my understanding is I don't need 4 x MEGA fuses, or fuse holders, coz the MRBF are better and built into the BlueSea 5194 *if it is possible/safe for it be modified* (not 5196).Honestly, by the time I started pricing out all the other bits and pieces to do the distributor at an equal quality level, the distributer was cheaper and more compact (plus reliable).
Figure what you need is the following: 2x 1000A copper bus bars. Ok, 1000A is a bit overkill, 600A will do fine. 2x Blue Sea 600A bus bars are $122 each. Now, I need 4 MEGA fuse holders. Those are $28 each. Lastly, I need to build up 2/0 or better jumpers to interconnect the bus bars to fuse holders. Figure $25 in wire, and another $25 in lugs.
Now, I have a frankenstein with 8 crimps that costs more than the Lynx Distributor.
I went with the Lynx Distributor.
Nice one, actually googled for littlefuse busbar, didn't come across this one.I have 2 of these.
Littelfuse 0FHZ0007Z FHZ Series ZCASE Fuse Holder | Waytek
Littelfuse 0FHZ0007Z FHZ Series ZCASE Fuse Holder, 7 Stud Assembly with Bolts and Bus Bars, 400A is in stock and ready to ship. Order today!www.waytekwire.com
Littelfuse says its rated for 400 amps.
Since the busbar is ~40mm2 I would rate it for 200 amps.
I use it with MRBF and zcase fuses.
Inexpensive alternative to Bluesea or Victron.
Not what I said. The 5196 is a common source power to three MRBF fuses. Connected as designed it works as a three connection positive BusBar. There is no negative connections on this fuse holder. It is not in any way a negative BusBar. A negative BusBar does not need fuses.Yes, 10,000a is partly why I'm suggesting it (and speed/efficacy of the current interrupt, based on research).
Are you saying the 5196 can't be a negative bus bar? If not, are you saying my thoughts above aren't viable?
I did not intend to criticize your stuff. I sorry if you took it that way. I only wanted to point out advantages of MRBF over MEGA or some other commonly used fuses. I do use Class-T as the catastrophic fuse on my LiFePo bank. I use MRBF on branch circuits over 100 amperes.As you can see in the picture I posted, my actual battery protection is handled by a Class T fuse. It's got 20kA intertuption capacity (useful in my 2p4s DIY battery).
Ok, thanks, though I always understood what 5196 (4 mounts) is, maybe you missed that I was wondering if 5194 (6 mounts) can viably be *modified* (if you look closely at 5194, and at schematics it seems that the only reason it is 1 x bar, and not 2 seperate bars, is because both rows of bolts are joined by an angle of metal. If this angle was not joined (cut it or replace it) you would have 2 separate bus bars - whether this is a-very-bad-idea or not, I don't know). Note: the 5194/5196 both cost more than I thought coz *do not include* MRBF fuses.Not what I said. The 5196 is a common source power to three MRBF fuses. Connected as designed it works as a three connection positive BusBar. There is no negative connections on this fuse holder. It is not in any way a negative BusBar. A negative BusBar does not need fuses.
Seems impossible to get in Australia ??I have 2 of these.
Littelfuse 0FHZ0007Z FHZ Series ZCASE Fuse Holder | Waytek
Littelfuse 0FHZ0007Z FHZ Series ZCASE Fuse Holder, 7 Stud Assembly with Bolts and Bus Bars, 400A is in stock and ready to ship. Order today!www.waytekwire.com
Littelfuse says its rated for 400 amps.
Since the busbar is ~40mm2 I would rate it for 200 amps.
I use it with MRBF and zcase fuses.
Inexpensive alternative to Bluesea or Victron.
The busbar in your picture is not common source which is not useful for typical system typologies.Ok, thanks, though I always understood what 5196 (4 mounts) is, maybe you missed that I was wondering if 5194 (6 mounts) can viably be *modified* (if you look closely at 5194, and at schematics the only reason it is 1 x bar, and not 2 x bars, is because both rows of bolts are joined by an angle of metal. If this angle was not joined you would have 2 separate bus bars - whether this is a-very-bad-idea or not, I don't know). Note: the 5194/5196 both cost more than I thought coz *do not include* MRBF fuses.
I've edited posts above for clarity.
6 mounts seems like enough for many smaller setups, mine included (2 x 24v 370w panels to 12/24v MPPT to 2x200AH batts, 3 kw inverter [that I inherited and likely doesn't hit 3kw, and batteries cant power 3kw anyway]).
And could be quite an elegant and tiny solution.
I'm totally open to being told this idea is not viable, or the MRBF not being suitable (short of being safer with a T-Fuse, my research says they are, but am a noob), hence me asking .