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Anyone Have the Bluetti EB200?

Hey I have screen shots for you. Just let me know date of purchase. It should be the same as what I ordered, because they said that is the only EB200 that they have *ever* had. They never had the upgraded P version, yet their ad said otherwise.
Did you get your new unit yet? Did you run any tests? How did it work out?
 
TESTS WITH EB200

So I ran 3 different tests on my Bluetti EB200. 2 were with air conditioners and one was to see how long my fridge would run.

Fridge - 22.5 hours Fridge is 2015 NON energy star rated, 20cf standard Whirlpool. No ice maker.
Window AC - 4 hours 20 minutes 6,000 btu Energy Star rated - settings were: Unit in bedroom, 72 degrees, Eco mode, quiet mode
Mini Split HVAC - 2 hours 7 minutes 9,000 btu Unit is for 20 ft insulated cargo office container w/4 led puck ceiling lights.
Set at 72 degrees and kept lights on. Turned HVAC off at 10% then just ran lights till unit reached 0%
50 ft 10 gauge ext. cord used

Conclusion I am satisfied with the results and still need to test a few more items. Curious to see how long both the fridge and chest freezer can run
together. Guestimating at least 18 hours? Need longer power strip with quality power surge first. I can run chest freezer with Ecoflow
Delta separately for 12 hours as I have done it before. Would prefer to use that for other items though. It is fantastic to know we can
have the bedroom window AC run long enough to give us a room to retreat for relief from heat & humidity. Like that they are an
all in one portable (but heavy for me - I do use dolly) unit to use in different buildings or can take off site like camping. I just have
my reservations on how it will hold up as it seems to have been assembled in 2020 per the touch screen. That is when the AC200 models
were being sold and had/have issues. So I have charged unit up to 100% 3x & ran down to 0% till it turned off 2x as was suggested for
the AC models to supposedly calibrate.

QUESTION Is it now a good idea to now do 90%-10% or 80%-20%? Meaning should I now not let it run al the way down to 0% or charge to 100%?
 
I Believe Bluetti reserves the bottom 10% for battery safety. So even if you run to 0%, it’s not actually dead, there’s still 10% left. You just can’t access that. As to going to 100%, personal choice. I’m not worrying about it with my units. They’ll die from age well before cycle count.

Also, thanks for posting the usage results. Surprised by the A/C. I thought it would last longer as the A/C wouldn’t run full time on those modes. I haven’t gotten around to testing my AC200P with our window unit yet. Now I have something to compare results to when I do.
 
I Believe Bluetti reserves the bottom 10% for battery safety. So even if you run to 0%, it’s not actually dead, there’s still 10% left. You just can’t access that. As to going to 100%, personal choice. I’m not worrying about it with my units. They’ll die from age well before cycle count.

Also, thanks for posting the usage results. Surprised by the A/C. I thought it would last longer as the A/C wouldn’t run full time on those modes. I haven’t gotten around to testing my AC200P with our window unit yet. Now I have something to compare results to when I do.
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This chart from Bluetti shows their estimated running time. They don't tell what the temperature setting the window air conditioner was set at, or was it on "eco" mode etc. There isn't one on here for a mini split. I really didn't expect that much run time on that, so 2 hours is great in my book as I do not have anything to compare it to. I am smack dab in the middle though for my bedroom window unit even though it is 2000 btu less than the 8000 they show here. I am sure these are more based on paper math than real life.
 
I Believe Bluetti reserves the bottom 10% for battery safety. So even if you run to 0%, it’s not actually dead, there’s still 10% left. You just can’t access that. As to going to 100%, personal choice. I’m not worrying about it with my units. They’ll die from age well before cycle count.

Also, thanks for posting the usage results. Surprised by the A/C. I thought it would last longer as the A/C wouldn’t run full time on those modes. I haven’t gotten around to testing my AC200P with our window unit yet. Now I have something to compare results to when I do.
Thanks psycaz, that is helpful and I appreciate your input. Makes sense they build that safety feature into the product.
 
Hey I have screen shots for you. Just let me know date of purchase. It should be the same as what I ordered, because they said that is the only EB200 that they have *ever* had. They never had the upgraded P version, yet their ad said otherwise.
14 March 2022 is the date of purchase from ssk.
 
My 5000 BTU window unit in Eco mode will shut itself down for awhile even if set to 72 and the room is 80. A decent amount of time too, like an hour plus sometimes.

I’m eyeing one of the Midea u-shaped units to replace it. Those are supposed to be very efficient and not much on initial draw on compressor startup as the compressor never really turns completely off.
 
14 March 2022 is the date of purchase from ssk.
Yup same as mine with bogus specs. It sounds like you are finding it useful. They replaced my EB200 with the AC200MAX. They are replacing the no name 400w charger with the t-500. Should arrive today. They did the right thing, but I will never buy from SSK again. Horrible experience trying to convince me the ad was correct. Idts ? I prob won't ever buy a bluetti product either. Too mix matched. Looks like they are mixing old components, so you never know what you are buying. the stickers are all bogus. Haven't seen the replacement model # anywhere.
 

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I'm a little confused. The spec plate on your EB200 shows 20V, 5A... same as your AC200MAX; both equal 100W. But assuming the EB200 is in fact only 60W output on USB C, how does this limit you? This is not about starting an argument, just asking a question.
 
I'm a little confused. The spec plate on your EB200 shows 20V, 5A... same as your AC200MAX; both equal 100W. But assuming the EB200 is in fact only 60W output on USB C, how does this limit you? This is not about starting an argument, just asking a question.

Two main differences. 2000wh vs 2048wh
2200w inverter with 4800 surge. vs 2000w
The rest was not important. I go by specs on the add to cart page. I expect to get what I paid for. I preferred the 110v layout on the EB.
 
Yup same as mine with bogus specs. It sounds like you are finding it useful. They replaced my EB200 with the AC200MAX. They are replacing the no name 400w charger with the t-500. Should arrive today. They did the right thing, but I will never buy from SSK again. Horrible experience trying to convince me the ad was correct. Idts ? I prob won't ever buy a bluetti product either. Too mix matched. Looks like they are mixing old components, so you never know what you are buying. the stickers are all bogus. Haven't seen the replacement model # anywhere.
Hello Notech, how is your new power station doing? Have you performed any real life tests on items you will use it on? Maybe you can start a new thread on it. Hope you are doing well in the realm of power stations...
 
Hello Notech, how is your new power station doing? Have you performed any real life tests on items you will use it on? Maybe you can start a new thread on it. Hope you are doing well in the realm of power stations...

Hi WoS, no I have not. I checked to see if the T-500 worked. It seems to be fine. It's fully charged. I will try to run some tests this week. I'll hook up 3/200w 12v panels and run some electrical yard tools while it's charging. I have a blower, Sun Joe tiller, elec mower, hedge clippers. They are lighter weight than gas powered or even cordless. I'll plug my kill-a-watt in and see how it performs. With gas prices, my choice to go electric several years ago was a good move. Plus I have zero pull strength to start any engine, except for one with a Honda engine. I have an electric pressure washer too. I gave up on the Briggs and Stratton one ? Gave it to a friend with a small homestead farm. I want to slimline my needs as much as possible ?
 
I received my EB200 from Miller Tech today. USB-C is rated at 100W but the overall power rating is 2000W not 2048. One concern, both owner's manuals say the battery type is LI-ion, not LiFePo. Anyone else seen this?
 
I received my EB200 from Miller Tech today. USB-C is rated at 100W but the overall power rating is 2000W not 2048. One concern, both owner's manuals say the battery type is LI-ion, not LiFePo. Anyone else seen this?
When I messaged Bluetti my concern over this they said all variants of EB200 have LiFePO4 cells. It's weight suggest it's LiFePO4 as well.
 
When I messaged Bluetti my concern over this they said all variants of EB200 have LiFePO4 cells. It's weight suggest it's LiFePO4 as well.
Ok, guess we take their word for it... but it would be nice if someone who's done a teardown would verify. I wasn't aware of the weight factor, thanks.
 
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Ok, guess we take their word for it, but it would be nice if someone who's done a teardown would verify. I wasn't aware of the weight factor, thanks.
The EB240 which has a 2400wh nmc battery weighs only 48 lbs vs 62 lbs for the eb200. The first gen AC200s which has nmc cells also weighed under 50 lbs.
 
The documentation that came with the EB200 is lacking, more of a quick start guide than anything else, so some unanswered questions.

#1: Elsewhere I've seen advice to charge these units to 100% then run it down to Ø a couple of times to "calibrate". Is this a good or bad idea? Or does it matter?
 
#1: Elsewhere I've seen advice to charge these units to 100% then run it down to Ø a couple of times to "calibrate". Is this a good or bad idea? Or does it matter?
I went by Bluetti's advice to run it down first and then charge. I took mine down to 18%. I was afraid to take it further, because some of the 200's (P, AC) had glitches where they took it to zero and had to jump through hoops with a UPS to get it to charge. That is a software issue, so maybe they fixed it. Idk.
 
I'm adding panels to my EB200, using rigid panels in a temporary config--meaning that I will only put them out when I need to charge via solar and store them away the rest of the time.

The warnings say not to connect/disconnect MC4s under power. Does this apply to all the other, non-MC4 connectors in the chain? And how much voltage is too much? Even when I cover my panels with cardboard I can still read ~10V. Do I need to wait a bit for the power to bleed off or is the drop more or less instant?
 
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