MichaelK
Solar Wizard
Nothing is free! You have to pay money to put together the items needed to make free electricity. So, the question here is how much money does he have to spend to get "free" power?
Free Energy - Real or Scam
- Thread starter robertwh
- Start date
I found a patent document for that generator. The V3 model has a continuous ramp. You set a ball at the top and start it rolling downhill and harvest the free energy. His first model used a staircase because it was easier to build, but the output had voltage spikes due to the ball dropping from step to step. Here is a drawing from the original patent application.
MichaelK
Solar Wizard
OK, this is far more reasonable question. 1000W over a 24 hour period would be 24kWh of power. If your biggest single load is your refrigerator, then I think your numbers are off by some margin. At my own place, with frig on 24/7, lights, TV, computer, satelite dish, ect, I'd expect to be consuming about 3.0 to 3.5 kWh of power per day, so unless you have crypto-mining servers hidden in the back room, the only other load that would consume that much power is air-conditioning.
So, if you are willing to give up air-conditioning for the length of the blackout, I'd say it's relatively easy to create a viable system for you. Let me throw out some specs for you and see what you can live with. Let's assume you chose from two routes, a "bare-bones just the lights and frig on" system, and something that can keep one room air-conditioned at night-time. Let's say the first needs 3.5kWh per day, and the second 9.0kWh per day.
If you are semi-tropical, let's assume you get ~4 sunhours of light each day, for most of the year. To make 3.5kWh of power you need about 800-900W of panels. Let's call that four 250W grid-tie panels (1000W), which are quite cheap these days. Assuming you need 3500W each day for at least two days, that means means 7000Wh of USEABLE battery capacity. Assume you don't deplete lead-acid past 50% and Li past 80%. You'd need...
(7000Wh/24V)/0.5 = 583Ah battery at 24V for lead-acid
(7000Wh/24V)/0.8 = 365Ah battery at 24V for Li
(7000Wh/48V)/0.5 = 291Ah battery at 48V for lead-acid
(7000Wh/48V)/0.8 = 182Ah battery at 48V for Li
Just plug in the numbers above if you want see what you need including air-conditioning.
Another consideration especially if you go with a lead-acid battery is charging rate. Lead-acid batteries like to get at least 1/10th C to be happy, and 1/8th C to be really happy. So, the 1000W minimum I outlined above won't meet that, depending on battery size/chemistry.
Let's say you select an off-grid lead-acid battery like Trojan's L-16. With an Ah capacity of 380Ah you want as much as 380Ah/8 = 48A of charging current. Assuming you can count on 85% of panel output, to get an honest 48A charging for a 48V battery at 50V that works out to be (48A X 50V)/85% = 2820W of panels.
So, you can see, you need to make some choices as to what you need vs. what is best for your system. Looks like your best bet is a 48V system, with a bare minimum of 1000W of panels, but optimal at ~2800W of panels. It will all come down to how much money you want to spend for either security or efficiency?
Ampster
Renewable Energy Hobbyist
Ha, that looks like an M.C. Escher drawing. Optical illusion, not science..
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It probably does work but is made of plastic so the wattage would be rather limited. If you want a free metal one take the alternator off a wrecked vehicle.
You will then have a more reliable device that you can contemplate your next step of what to connect it to that hasn't cost anything.
LithiumCanuck
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2022
- Messages
- 122
Huh?
18,500 is what you need to put in your battery bank for the 18,5 hours of no sun but you still need « solar input » for the full 24,000 watts if you need to size your panels.
Ampster
Renewable Energy Hobbyist
huh? Size your panels for what? Watts or Watt hours of energy that they can produce during the day?
I agree the size of the panels needs to be greater than 3.4 kWs. Given some losses and less production in the winter I would probably go with at least 6 kWs or more but not 24 kWs.
LithiumCanuck
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2022
- Messages
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Sorry, there was an h missing…. 1000W x 24h = 24kWh. That’s for panels, of which 18.5 kWh go into batteries. And yes, you need to add more for obvious considerations…
There was a time the telephone sounded too good to be true, but no one considers it a scam today.
shavermcspud
Solar Enthusiast
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2020
- Messages
- 576
A telephone doesnt break the laws of thermodynamics does it.....
Ok, keep in mind, the 3.4kW of panels was a starting point to illustrate the amounts and show math. It was a minimum number, I then explained additional will be needed to actually get the kW output. I subtracted out the average daily sun hours from the total, since the panels should be overproducing for a portion of the day, thus the total Wh consumption is reduced from the total.
I also went on to state, real world weather etc impact the amount, and tripling the quantity is wise…
No, but many laws of nature are frequently poorly understood. There are scammers and real inventors -- hard to tell them apart sometimes for many people.
shavermcspud
Solar Enthusiast
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2020
- Messages
- 576
If you have to question over unity and whether its real or not, I have some really awesome magic beans for sale you might like?
It's free to look at or feel the energy on your body or other object at any particular moment in time.
It is not free to harness it to use at a later time.
Yeah, I see what you’re getting at. But I’m not going the route of the magic beans. I’m just trying to say I’ve seen some things really work that everyone has been poo-pooing. Some people are able to make it work, because they didn’t know it wasn’t possible. I’m not talking about raising the dead and pregnant virgins, etc., but real science that goes against what people believed because they just didn’t throughly understand the science.
Warpspeed
Solar Wizard
Funnily enough, some truly great leaps forward in science were sometimes due to experiments that went wrong.
And the scientist in trying to discover why it went wrong, was perceptive enough to grasp that something completely new and unexpected was the cause.
Even nuclear fission is very expensive free energy.
And the scientist in trying to discover why it went wrong, was perceptive enough to grasp that something completely new and unexpected was the cause.
Even nuclear fission is very expensive free energy.
Ok, so let's say I want to start with something that I can fully expand.
Going with:
EG4 Battery Rack 6 Slot (PRE-ORDER)
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EG4 LifePower4 Lithium Battery | 48V 100AH | Server Rack Battery | UL1973, UL9540A
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EG4 6000XP Off-Grid Inverter | 8000W PV Input | 6000W Output | 480V VOC Input | 48V 120/240V Split Phase | All-In-One Solar Inverter
The EG4 6000XP is a cutting-edge 48V split-phase, off-grid inverter and charger, designed to revolutionize your energy needs. With an impressive 8kW of PV input capacity and an efficient 6kW continuous power output, it also serves as a battery 140A charger. What sets it apart is its scalability...
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What else am I going to need?
MichaelK
Solar Wizard
Solar panels of course. Here is where grid-tie panels shine. You could wire them in series up to 360V+, depending on your winter lows. You will need to wire at least three in series to go over the 90V minimum, but depending on your winter lows, keep your strings below 450Voc. That might be 8-10 panels in series, depending of course on their output voltage.
Don't order your panels online. Shop locally, with local pickup. You can get 2-4W/$ that way and assured that you don't get shattered panels. Shop of Craigslist, or other local venue and buy cash and carry.
I think you battery is too small. I would at least double the capacity, though I would go with triple.
Have you decided whether you want only 120V, or will you also need split-phase 120/240VAC? You will need to parallel another unit if you want 240VAC.
Lastly, you will need wire, breakers, ect. to connect it all together. Here is an ampicity chart to guide you to proper gauge selection. I'd go with at least 25% over capacity.
To keep the spaghetti mass of wiring, I used a power center to consolidate all the wiring, breakers, ect. Here is an example of a DC power center.
This thread is what I love about free speech. When people are free to say what they want to without being shamed or brow beat into silence, it becomes painfully obvious where and with whom your attention should go.
Thanks for the entertainment!
Thanks for the entertainment!
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