diy solar

diy solar

Dc breaker

I got the non polarity breaker. Page 1, 2nd link from Amazon. Only took 4 days to come from USA. But a lot of people saying class t fuse are best. I would of went with a fuse but don’t have to crimping tools for end of cables.

There are cables sold that are already crimped/lugged, did you also consider them?

Another "issue" about this type of breaker is that there is a limit of wire AWG size that you can shove into it.
 
I got the non polarity breaker. Page 1, 2nd link from Amazon. Only took 4 days to come from USA. But a lot of people saying class t fuse are best. I would of went with a fuse but don’t have to crimping tools for end of cables.
The hit it with a hammer crimpers can be had at many hardware stores for ~$20. That is what I used, but intentions are to get one of those fancy but cheap'ish hydraulic crimpers like cheap'ish hydraulic crimper

Anyone have reccommendations, or warnings, for those cheap'ish hydraulic crimpers?
 
There are cables sold that are already crimped/lugged, did you also consider them?

Another "issue" about this type of breaker is that there is a limit of wire AWG size that you can shove into it.
The connections on battery are different, female to male.
My cable is 4 AWG and it just say fits into breaker.
 
Best to follow these advises; 20kA AIC is probably the minimum.

Get a T Class fuse, or a DC MCCB (not MCB), if you prefer a breaker / isolator switch, but yes as stated above, MCCBs are more expensive.

Also, watch out if AC/DC or AC only, and polarized / non-polarized. Sometimes they will spec both AC and DC AIC ratings. MCCBs are usually non-polarized.

I will never use an MCB for inverter to battery, or battery to battery.

For inverter to battery bank, I'm using 3 DC MCCBs for my 3 parallel systems; 2 Chinese brands (both with 20kA Icu), and a Schneider EasyPact EZC250H with 30kA Icu. All 3 of them are capable of both AC and DC, and non-polarized.

For each battery, I'm using ANL fuses, but I'm considering T Class for them (for dead short in case of failure).

These are more expensive than others, but they are the best OCP devices in their classes, and gives you peace of mind.
Which Chinese brand MCCB are you using?
How do you know for sure that they are non-polarized ? I got three TAIXI DC MCCBs from Ali. Seller claims they are non polarized (in regards to where the load should be connected), but forum members think otherwise. I'm really confused.
 
Which Chinese brand MCCB are you using?
How do you know for sure that they are non-polarized ? I got three TAIXI DC MCCBs from Ali. Seller claims they are non polarized (in regards to where the load should be connected), but forum members think otherwise. I'm really confused.

Suntree. In the manual there's no mention of being polarized if I remember correctly. I also tested with a meter, I didn't get a warning. Also not printed on front of the breaker.

Chinese version:


Renogy version:

 
The Suntree with the Schneider. I have sent the inverter of the Schneider back to the seller for repair.
 

Attachments

  • Schneider_EasyPact.jpg
    Schneider_EasyPact.jpg
    150.4 KB · Views: 27
Back
Top