The back bracket is deep enough to cover the PCB connectors for the units also. The brackets have holes for better cooling and the back side has a grille to protect from touching the contacts. Also to ease cooling, the contact space inside the bracket is minimized to leave a small air gap between the units case and the bracket. The back side has round cable openings for battery and AC power-in. The square CAN-bus opening in the back is big enough to pull a female JST SM 2 Pin connector though it.
Mounting:
Both brackets could be mounted on a surface (e.g. on a wooden board placed on top of a battery rack). To find the exact location for the board drilling holes, the front bracket has to be slide over 2 units from the back. The rear bracket should be slide from the rear until it stops (it has a stop edge inside, so the PCB does not get pressure). Now the pack could be placed on the board to find the correct location to drill the holes in the board (2 each for front and rear bracket).
Now the units could be removed by just sliding them our, pulling them through the brackets until the PCB connectors are slide out to be able to disconnect these to remove the units. Keep in mind to leave all wires/cables a bit longer for service to be able to slide the units out for about 1.5-2 inches without disconnecting all external cables - this makes service a lot easier.
To connect the battery cables, you need to bend the copper lugs (4 AWG, 1/4 hole") by 45° to get them straight out of the back (the poles on the PCB connectors are at 45° angle). You can attach all cables and wires just on the PCB connectors and as a last step the units could be slide in the brackets as far as the PCB connectors are accessible (because the cables are 1-2" longer) to be plugged in. As the last step, the units could be slide in until the stop.
Use PETG filament (not PLA) to be more temperature resistant! The units getting hot and PETG has a higher melting point!
See my posts in the discussions starting at the given "Additional information URL" post.
Rear bracket:
Front bracket:
In real:
Complete install:
Mounting:
Both brackets could be mounted on a surface (e.g. on a wooden board placed on top of a battery rack). To find the exact location for the board drilling holes, the front bracket has to be slide over 2 units from the back. The rear bracket should be slide from the rear until it stops (it has a stop edge inside, so the PCB does not get pressure). Now the pack could be placed on the board to find the correct location to drill the holes in the board (2 each for front and rear bracket).
Now the units could be removed by just sliding them our, pulling them through the brackets until the PCB connectors are slide out to be able to disconnect these to remove the units. Keep in mind to leave all wires/cables a bit longer for service to be able to slide the units out for about 1.5-2 inches without disconnecting all external cables - this makes service a lot easier.
To connect the battery cables, you need to bend the copper lugs (4 AWG, 1/4 hole") by 45° to get them straight out of the back (the poles on the PCB connectors are at 45° angle). You can attach all cables and wires just on the PCB connectors and as a last step the units could be slide in the brackets as far as the PCB connectors are accessible (because the cables are 1-2" longer) to be plugged in. As the last step, the units could be slide in until the stop.
Use PETG filament (not PLA) to be more temperature resistant! The units getting hot and PETG has a higher melting point!
See my posts in the discussions starting at the given "Additional information URL" post.
Rear bracket:
Front bracket:
In real:
Complete install: