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The batrium doesnt have one, unless you have the shunt but that is on the DC side. The shunt (500A or 1000A) will tell the batrium if the pack is being over drawn. The beauty of the batrium is, with the right setup, you can program it to say "No little inverter, no, turn off NOW" by using the...

Thats how we learn. I watched Madi (The Digital Mermaid) on youtube short out a 48V 280aH EVE pack, and it made me jump. I'm very cautious around my batteries, and never had a problem. A mate was visiting while I was re-arranging my 260ah 48V LA pack and he came over (having had a few beers, me...

Oh you just brought to my attention something I DID NOT FACTOR, and its something I already know when firing up an inverter. Inrush current. This "pulse" of energy can be magnitudes greater than what the appliance wants. Its not just capacitors that do this, motor stall currents do it as well...

Yeah I'm getting this. Unmarked connectors, "you need to do this coz yours is that model" and the LOUD BANG when they die has put me off them. The "Blue box" one I bought was a chargary, but it was just a monitor, and 7S plus, I didn't see that in its specs, nor its inability to balance. I'm...

I blew up a 100A Daly bms by over drawing it - we're talking a 12V circuit here, so bought a 250A unit. During operation from my CALB pack, the 100 did a fine job of what was expected of it, then I plugged in my fridge. I have a 1200VA Victron inverter that powers my experimental system before I...

Good stuff - I'll start playing with my 2 12V Daly's on a 40A Headway pack and a 180Ah Calb pack :)

Yep that explains it - I'm barking up the wrong tree. Will wait till 3/4S code is implemented then fiddle. For now I can rely on my smart shunt for SOC details, and Smart BMS phone app for cell data :)

Is the code for the 3S and 4S bms's implemented yet? no rush, but I might be jumping the gun as I have my battery set up and connected to the raspberry pi, but nothing shows up (tried both the monitor and the UART port).

Charge the battery - it will allow charge so that should turn it on and give you enough time to change the setting. Else, if you can easily access the NTC, and move it away from the batteries, assuming you have set the BMS to never sleep, move the NTC to a safe spot, and hover it a few cm above...

Think its 15300 for "never sleep" on the 4S models.

Put a charge 0.5V higher than the total battery voltage between P- and B+. I have the same bms. That woke it up. (so connect the charger to battery positive and BMS p- cable). It doesn't need to be a charger either, a regulated power supply or bench supply works just as well. I will fire mine...

I am still waiting on the stupid bus bars for the headway pack, but I chose a box that will fit both my Calb pack and the headway, so if the bus bars don't arrive before the box, I'll put the calbs in there and let you know how I get on with a 4S 250A Daly unit. Software is all installed now...

I agree on the ring terminals. Went from the crappy cable with croc clips supplied with the psu to 6ga wire and hydraulically crimped lugs, and the current went from 3.5A to 15A (limit of my supply) just with a change of cable. Charging in series first is more effecient - 14.6V at 15A is more...

8.6kW going in. *faints* wow :)

I have two of them, a smart 4s 100A, and a smart 4S 250A. I'll be using the smaller one on the headway pack, and have a large CALB cell pack to connect the 250A one to. I can move the pi to either pack. Edit: There will be a weeks delay with the headway pack as it has a few bus bars short of a...

This is awesome news. I have a 4s unit and a 4s4p headway test pack to build. This way I can do a lot of testing. Already got a pi and touchscreen display working. I first need to capacity test my second hand cells, then I will top balance them and commence testing the code. My device is a...

If you have an "intelligent" (aka hobby) charger that wont start if it cannot sense a battery, tell your charger its a lead acid battery, and then set the charge voltage to 0.6 volts above your battery voltage (assuming this won't exceed the batteries maximum charge voltage aka 14.6v for...

I ran into the same roadblock with the silly temperature sensor. I'm in Australia (Sydney) so temperatures rarely get below 5 degrees C. With the 100A 4S model I spent a good 3 hours trying to get it to activate. Finally tried plugging in the bluetooth and temperature sensor, and then applying a...

Its never going to balance if you are only charging to 14.6v. They are lithium ion cells, full voltage is 4.2v. Thus full for the 4S pack is 16.8V. I know you may only be charging to 14.6 to stay inside the voltage range of a particular piece of gear in your setup, but the balancer of the daly...

You can use a daly with LFP as there is no danger of fire. I would never use one on lithium ion. Too dangerous (in fact I don't have any home made lithium ion packs). A 270Ah lithoum pack like yours, when it goes off, its going to be like a fire in a fireworks/munitions factory. Get a proper...

It took me 3 days to work out that the temp sensor was the culprit on mine too. I'm in australia, so don't need it... guess I do if I want the BMS to work ;)

well since you caught my initial post before I edited, did you try a charger? also if the BMS came with a temperature sensor, is it plugged into the NTC port on the BMS? My identical, but DALY labelled one won't start without the temperature sensor connected, and it only starts if I supply it a...

Looks like a DALY clone. Edit: this one is backwards, seems they want you to connect balance leads first, then B-. Have you tried the multimeter in the opposite direction (swap probes between P- and B-)

Any particular regulated power supply will do, just use the Victron connect app to limit the current to prevent the power supply from going into over current protect. Start low and work up (say 10A). When the over current protection of the power supply kicks in, back it off a few amps to prevent...

Parallel still only ends up with a 12V battery. I was looking for the ability to connect 4 in series for 48V. Good to know you can parallel them though :) I will be buying one to examine this week. I know I'll void the warranty the instant I open it, but I'll test it first with my smart shunt...

There are many on ebay which go up to 60V. I have not drawn huge currents through them, max is about 60A at 48V, and 80A at 12V. They are rated to 300A, so I guess I am only using them to 1/3 their rating. Edit: the batteries cannot be hooked in series, according to the seller. This can only be...

Yeah thats what I thought - JBD, and I was thinking since I have a tonne of JST-XH connectors, it wouldn't be hard to add the bluetooth connector if it is missing. Regardless, I plan to buy one, check its capacity, and if its up to snuff, buy 3 more and make a 100Ah 48V pack, even if I need to...

Thats what I like, and it means easier to work in a 24V/48V bms should you decide to series connect them - ditch the supplied bms and use your own. Just had a closer look at the people selling them. Located in australia (I'm a ham and have bought antenna's from them before), they are also...

When I first got my 48V victron, I sorta guessed there would be capacitors inside that would require precharging but also expected (at that price) for it to have inbuilt precharging circuits. Thankfully when I first hooked it up for a test, it was to some oldish LA batteries. I stupidly assumed...

These appear to be easily dismantled, and the construction suggests they contain Aluminium encased LifePo4 cells, not a bunch of 18650's etc. They come in a nice steel case too. The BMS appears to be a run of the mill ebay job, but you could easily replace it with a Daly, DIY BMS or even a...

Where did you buy it from. If you used a credit card just charge it back. When they ask for the dud battery back, tell them to send a courier for it. You have not recieved what you have paid for so stick it to them and tell them to pay the freight.

I have decided against buying these, only because there is only ebay, kogan and outbax or whatever there name is, selling them. I can get 200Ah cells for a similar price, and either use a daly bms, or build the new DIY bms v4.4 which is looking very promising.

I am now pretty much just about set to start testing the voltax batteries. The inverter had arrived, so basically I am just waiting on a battery master switch, fuse, cable, lugs and a hydraulic crimper. I'm also waiting on some FTDI modules to make up victron cables, which cost a few $ each...

I just got a reply from Outbackz Australia who sell the Voltax batteries. Don't buy the purple ones, Save $200. His reply when I enquired as to what the difference was exactly my assumptions: Email begins: Hi there, Thank you for showing interest in our items. The only difference between the...

Exactly what I do - Victron MPPT 150/35 and a 60V 8A power supply. Supplies the equivelent of 500W worth of panels on a perfectly bright cloudless sunny day :)