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The discharge rate on those LTO's is really impressive. Very interesting.

Erm... starter batteries are not made to run a high load for 3-4 minutes solid. They are made for the 15-20 second start load. You really want more of a dual purpose starter/deep cycle for this in lead acid land. My windlass spec's in at 1200 watts, at 12v that's 100A, at 14v, more like 85A...

@mikefitz please expand on that - why do you think that lead acid is the way to go for a windlass battery? You've given no reason. As long as the battery is built to handle the discharge rate I don't think I agree.

A bit ironically, I decided to put in a 24v alt + WS500 to charge my main pack. So I'm looking at making up 2 or 3 packs: Windlass, Engine Start and something to drive my new electric winches.

That's quite a few voltages to deal with. My system is similar on my 46ft 24v Lifepo4 pack 915Ah 5000/24 Quattro 3x 550w panels with 100/20 mppt controllers for each. DC-DC to AGM 12v pack Cerbo GX OrionBMS JR2 with Canbus to the Cerbo Coming soon: WS500 Regulator (also canbus to the Cerbo) 24v...

Location would be helpful! Cheers.

Love that vid, don't chew on your lead solder and you should be fine. :D

Given the cell outputs, I'm digging this. The marinized cells are $$, but in reality they are just custom made with a frickton of resin on top so people can walk on them.

hmm ok I found an older how-to vid, seems like just a solder job. not to bad. Vid in question:

Without too much work I found 100pc of sunpower cells with tabs for $340 on aliexpress. That's really not bad at all. I'm thinking I can use my battery spot welder on these things maybe...

I'm just starting to dig into the idea of a custom panel build. What do I mean? Well, I've got this: Which I've built using finished nidacore panels. It's the new hard bimini for my sailboat. It rocks in at 8 ft by 12 ft! I've got three 550 watt panels I was planning to stick on here. I'll end...

I actually need to have a convo with them - I've yet to see it show active balancing. I've had tons of other things to deal with that took priority over it tho

I skipped past a bit. I use an orionJr2 BMS on my boat. It uses a hall effect current sensor and talks canbus to my victron system. As a backup, I have outputs from it that feed into some optoisolators to deliver enable signals to charging and discharging systems. This also lets me integrate...

Hmm, too bad they aren't nickel plated. (don't appear to be in the photos)

The windlass is built for 12v. It's a $300 motor swap and another new contactor to make it use 24v. I have enough work for now, so it's on my future nice to have list. As it is, I'm already swapping out the old contactor to add reversing, adding wireless controls and making my own chain counter...

I have both 12 and 24 but my solar feeds into my 24v pack.

Honestly I wanted to go for another 305 in the pack but prices had gone up on me.

Pump all the values into the mppt wizard and see what it says. I use a 100/20 for a 530w panel but it's for a 24v battery system.

So I've got my 915Ah pack with OrionJr2 BMS sorted and working with my Cerbo GX, Quattro and MPPTs. Once I finish my new hard bimini I'll get my 530w panels up. I'm still a little torn on either 2 or 3. At this point I just want to see the end of the tunnel! As a bonus, I decided to upgrade my...

3x are in fantastic condition. The third has some surface corrosion but it is still useful. The balance connector on that one got trashed so I pop riveted new leads to the pack. The other three still have tesla bms boards installed. Location: Black Hawk, Colorado. Can meet within 50 miles or so...

The lack of installation details really is a problem here. I too would suspect that this is an over-voltage issue. As @Zwy noted, cold weather causes higher voltage output from PV panels. This has to be accounted for in PV installs. We're all certainly interested in failures, but with no real...

Setting it up for WFB - Work from Boat so I can bop back and forth and take advantage of remote work! Back to the topic at hand... 50ah batteries are really small. I'm guessing that you're going from 100Ah lead acid? Be aware that most LifePO4 batteries are rated for 1C - so max...

It provides a nice power budget for A/C, Scuba tank fills, electric cooking and all my nerd stuff. (Seriously I've seen my wife go from hating life to really enjoying her time with a little air conditioning!)

I think you're better off looking at passive cooling designs - that doesn't mean that they don't have a fan but you can build a cooling loop that circulates by virtue of the heat produced and the cooling of say, a radiator that's external. Compressor's add quite a bit of complication.

I use an Orion Jr2 BMS on my DIY pack. It talks canbus to my Victron gear (just had to crimp on a RJ45 to the harness) and I get full SoC info via my cerbo - meaning phone, tablet, internet and the display I added for it. For a budget option, Jr Rev C supports enough canbus message to work as well.

Honestly? Get a FLIR cam for your phone/tablet and address the hot spots. This'll make a huge difference.

Ok this is getting silly. Ericson 46 here. My house pack is 915Ah 24v LifePO4. I'm using orion BMS to talk CANBUS to my victron gear all integrated with a Cerbo GX. Next upgrade is to move from 12v alt to a 24v alt with a WS500. Quattro 5000 inverter charger, 3x MPPTs, 24/12-70A DC-DC for...

I just connected my 24/12 converter to my 12v bus at the battery connections - then turn off the breaker for the 110/12v power converter. This saved me when I was travelling and blew up my 24/12 converter. (Turned out to be internal fuses in the converter from a slide motor working it too hard)...

I've been using Victron 24/12 converters pretty happily in both my systems. However, on my boat I've noticed an interesting squealing sound from the converter that's created when my fridge compressor kicks on. The compressor is a danfoss type but it is at least a decade old. This is the style...

So I am trying to figure out the best way to handle bilge pump power. I have a large LifePO4 House bank and a pair of AGMs. Originally, I was thinking of having three pumps run off my LifePO4 house bank and a fourth that runs from one of my AGM engine cells. I've been working on adding discharge...

In my case? AGM. Unless you've gone full electric, you should be running your engine whenever you are running your windlass. I've got two AGM cells - soon to have an isolator of some sort on them. They are my engine/windlass batteries. If the engine is running, then I have something like 60A...

If you have a specific question/issue, the marine electrical group on fb is mostly productive.

I just did this but with a dedicated fuse block - I have three controllers on my boat, each called for a 25a fuse. That will feed into a battery protect that the BMS controls as a charging disable override.

Looking at your boat, I see you have a double backstay and quite a bit of boom shading. Model out the shading you'll get from those a bit to determine the ideal layout. Also, put a dedicated MPPT controller per panel. This will deal with shading better and you get redundancy - if you lose one...

I bought three hard panels - 530w each, 40x80". I'm putting in three, but have since decided to reconstruct my bimini so I'm a little delayed on it. My boat is in St Augustine, so I drove 3 hours to the georgia location of santan solar to pick them up. One dude I met out there put panels on...