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Working well, no issues here on 280aH cells & occasional 160A load from inverter for microwave.

I guess we just all have a different way of looking at things. When I ordered mine, I was assuming I'd receive something to the order of the popular Bussmann ANL fuse holder (rated I think at 800A). This fuse holder appears to be made from the same material that breaker box buss bars are...

That's the point of my whole narrative. Otherwise, when someone is talking about 150A and above, at this point "toy" studs need to be upgraded. If it works on a flashlight or a trolling motor fine, your fiberglass may get scorched before the 12 gauge wire finally melts. For the maritime...

Have you ever done a mobile installation? Vibration sometimes causes issues, especially over time. Also from an advertising perspective, this particular connector is not something I would boast too heavily about using. Sawing a Bussmann ANL holder in half and drilling another mounting...

OK, here is what HankzorBMS Store (SIC) who I bought from on Ali says about the change: ME: You switched products on me. If you will look at the photo in the top of this message, you see what the product looked like on your website when I ordered it - It had the long tabs that extended beyond...

Do you remember the show "The Twilight Zone"? There was this episode where a family of humans are put in a cage and the show starts where they keep finding all this stuff like drawer handles that fall off and that's because the large cage they have been placed inside has been constructed by...

OK, let me rephrase, the studs are made in such a manner that no one in the commercial or electrical code approved world has adopted any style of a product of similar construction. It's always amazing how anyone can't admit they've made a mistake and using these for any kind of load that has a...

Looks like no sooner did they put a 200A model on the market, around a year later now they have shortened both high current terminal tabs which means if you are like me, just built a battery box based on the long tab terminals and you order a spare unig, it comes now with the short stubbie...

Check your clockwise pattern on the top if the bolt twists, this loosens the lower one if you are holding the lower nut and tightening the top. Still left hand, right hand, upside down, the thing is plastic, the nut inside easily twists loose and if you are used to "real" equipment like the...

Never assume, however, that the person who created an installation before you is more learned than you are or that has any advantage because anyone can make mistakes. Bottom line is that plastic melts when it gets hot. That does not negate the frustration with the snapping internal small...

Corbury, I installed a coupe of Heltech BMS 4S 5A Active ballancers (around $20US on ali), actually I installed 2 on each set of 12V group of 4 cells but after a few charges and drains, it doesn't seem like I need a full 10A any longer.

Another option if you have a high performance alternator, e.g. a Sprinter 150a has a common steady 30A commitment to keep the chassis components energized (45a if the A/C is going), so it makes a lot of sense to tap off that extra 120a that is just dormant with no need for a B2B/DC-DC If you...

Always good to find a kindrid spirit. Don't loose the positive "negative attitude" I always say. Cheers to you my friend! You and I have shared bread with our fellow Murphy ;-)

No, I'm not seeing it for my own personal environment. The reason that mfgs go to higher voltages is as you pointed out, to save money on copper. (Plus there's the inherent advantage of an ignorant public that believes e.g. a 18V rechargeable drill is twice the device a 9V rechargeable is and...

P.S. I hope I am not hijacking your thread. With that I am going to add one more rumor to the rumor mill to join the ranks of batteries must be mounted in a vice, B2B are to be used with no consideration for alternator capacity and performance and that cells must be top balanced in parallel...

Noting on this, they have two major flaws, one is that they are plastic and if any sizable current overheats them the plastic can melt to where the wire mass will be floating around and of particular concern if used in a vehicle. Secondly if you disassemble (as you will see when it breaks) you...

I don't have enough data to produce a full report but after 4 months of working pretty much every day on this project, I finally just sealed up everything up last week and said if it burns the house down, so be it. I have dual 280aH banks wired in a mirror image, same exact length of cables...

I wasn't able to phrase this question to the point of delievering any hits here or on Google. With an EPERVER XTRA controller in mid day with panels live, is it OK to remove the power line to the controller with the solar panels still attached to the controller and live? I was able to do...

This is just a long-time going point of humor regarding mobile installations where the alternator will be the major high-amp charge resource (overlanding, boondocking or what have you). The buyer gets excited about the potential to charge at 100-150A rate but everyone I have known walks away...

I can't thank you enough. I have less than 30 days on my two Tracers so I just ordered the Xtra to replace. Note that none of the generation controllers I first purchased this month have the LiBattery option when connected to the laptop, so that will be new to work with. I am with you in...

Thanks for the detailed response. And the main urgency I am working within is the time window for returned merchandise. Do you believe that the Xtra line is worth using over the Tracer AN line at the moment is my primary request for clarification. Regarding starting my own thread, is this...

REMOVED POST POSTED TO WRONG THREAD

It is a bit ironic that those bullet points for going to "lithium" seem to decrease as we get further along into our builds. At the top of the list for recent years has been "charge at 1x output and be done in no time" to what we see today, "add an expensive B2B converter and be happy with...

Unless I am missing something, then this means it is a flawed design. The style heater that would be mostly used (silicon pad) would mean the heater power needs to be applied long before freezing temps occurr. Ali/eBay/Amazon sell the same low-end thermostat $5-$15 that works in C and will...

My exact setup and mine has been down to 24F. Thermostats are C so I set at 3C in and 6C out (I'm more stingy with the heater current LOL) but it kept a steady 4-6C during the past freeze with the cells outdoors. I actually used external thermostats instead of the BMS heater tab and put one...

Actually, the design of these things must be changing by the hour. My model had the 2 tabs extending outward slightly from the case to where it can be mounted on terminal posts.

I have the exact one in the photo. A "gotcha" with one the one with the heater port is to figure out if it's the BMS battery probe or the BMS internal temp sensor that is reading the temperature to control the heater and where the BMS is mounted in relation to the battery.) I wasn't sure so...

I am looking for the highest performing low cost controller that has a remote panel read-out (not bluetooth only because I don't want to find my phone and start up an app when I can just glance at the meter and since I look at the SOC so often). I want it to provide a quality charge via my JBD...

Looking for verification that the xtra line is the suggested solution to the 4s 280aH individual cells along with the JBD 200 BMS. Thanks in advance.

Can anyone address using an Epever controller and which one will work the best for 4s 280hH LifePo4 on a JBD 4s 200 BMS? This thing is taking on a life of its own (this project) and if I don't put it to rest soon, I think I am going nuts :-)

I am totally burried in too many Epever models. What about the Xtra line, which is recently discovered is even one more that I don't understand.

Sounds out of my budget but thank you for the kind reply.

OK, the issue is a software bug. If you start off with your controller in the USER battery-type setting from previously using a MT50 plugged in and choosing USER as a battery type, then if you later attach with the PC Software and USB cable instead (at this point) and open the option in the...

Not to put anyone on the spot here but I just sent back my two standard Tracer X201N controllers and ordered the XTRA models instead. I am hoping when you say "new style Xtra" is a better solution that there is not an old style xtra and a new style xtra, otherwise I am going to get penalized...

Hello! Would getting a copy of your two config files be possible? Thanks in advance. I have 4s 280ah with JDB 200a. And I can't even seem to save the parms I entered using the USB interface. It keeps saying " input cannot be blank" and I don't have a blank field. Thanks...