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1) A wire from that specified earth terminal to a earth point- NOT to the copper water water pipes and preferably to its own earth stake. Do this before going live!

The American Gigafactory puts Samsung Li cells into Tesla battery cases. Probably change as soon as agreements run out and new US models released to use LiPo. Then no need to duplicate the process of putting LiPo cells in Tesla battery cases at the US Gigafactory when the whole assembled unit...

I am assuming there is a non-return valve in some jurisdictions that prevents legionella enriched warm water from returning back into the mains. There is a valve before our HWS and this may be it??

Keep the original PWM charge controller for this panel. There would be insignificant advantage using a mppt CC at 16v when the mppt V of these panels is 18v. In Australia 2nd hand panels 180/190w are cheap $0 -$10. There is a big jump in prices after that till they reach the landed wholesale...

15v is the min stated for both Rovers in the specs. Even so, don't expect much charge out of a 100w panel on a cloudy day.

Not a Jeep Automotive Electrician, but- One battery charger - 2 batteries. The 3 amp battery charger isn't connected to the battery that is powering the dash cam!

Its rated at 4 amps. Googling brings up a wide range of quoted outputs from 1.7 to 4 amps. There is no heat sink on the bare board. On $10 pwms there is a rudimentary attempt at a heat sink which is the same on 10amp to 30amp models and can be modified easily to bring temps down under load...

Probably means at 12.5v and above the battery will be still charged at the 13.55v rate rather than 14.4v (new cycle) which would occur below 12.5v. My Tecsup 12v/25a battery charger has the same profile except at 25amps instead of 4amps and keeps at float unless the battery goes below a...

I'll need further convincing to not see that these ponds are simply frozen when air temp drops below 0c just before dawn. Evaporation in arid climes does cool water but will stop once the first crust of ice is formed.

Most likely 'Made in China' will be on any inverter you buy. No point paying for a brand name when one of similar specs is sold under a generic label for 1/4 the price. Cover yourself by buying from a reputable reseller and up your specs- if you think you need 600 watts buy the 1500w version...

War of the Currents 2020!!

We use rms for voltage measurement. 230v (rms). Switch companies do too. It is why heating elements AC or DC of the same rating have almost the same heating capacity.

Very interesting. One question- How would the LV5048 react if the grid goes down with the micro-inverter activated since it will still be receiving a ac signal??

For standard house panels the cost of repair exceeds the replacement wholesale cost. Those epoxy fixes on youtube look promising until you go along to your local hardware store and price the stuff. An epoxy covering without the usual fibreglass reinforcement could be ok for home use but not...

Less than 2% voltage loss Yes! Wire is ok 18v 4amps 7metres A 10amp or above acdc switch will work at that low dc amperage.

A switch in one of the pv leads will do it. No issue with the current not going anywhere with that size panel. Even though the unit is 12v the charge controller would probably be a 12v/24v pwm model so it will need the battery voltage to determine the charging voltage. You could skip the switch...

The ratings for switches of the same amperage always have DC V much lower than AC V example- https://www.amazon.com.au/uxcell-Thermal-Breakers-Overload-Protector/dp/B07XF6VTQH

An option is to leave the hws intact and place the dc element at the inlet, sloping up to use thermo siphoning for heat transfer. https://diysolarforum.com/attachments/polyhousing-jpg.22764/ This is #1 #2 the poly has been replaced with galvanised fittings, another T added for another 12v/600w...

Solution to 1st problem- sudo shutdown -h 02:00 Solution to 2nd problem- I cheated and used a variable PSU set at 13.1v with some diodes to stop the very old psu from clicking at sun rise. Now replaced with a battery charger - Tecsup premium 12v/25a set at 14.4/13.5- on all the time. v at...

pv ohms is 2.7ohms From the table provided by z80 the closest element with this resistance is the 1000w/48v with 2.3ohms - This element will put out 380w with the 2 panels in parallel - 300w into heating water 80w wire loss. You wont need a thermostat!! Or add another 4 panels, more likely 6...

Keep it simple! A 3000w inverter with high and low V cutout. Do any come without that these days?? Stock standard minimum 250amp rating up to that.

Seasonal as well. Probably you are having a period of low humidity.

Just a voltage difference between you and the rods. Fuel tankers have a earth lead they connect to the fuel tanks before refilling. An earth strap on your boots? You really need to fix this... do you have a pacemaker....or even worse: a $800 smartwatch?? Probably need to earth each rod to the...

No. A 110v wall socket at the house to run an extension lead from. The economics of solar do not stack up if mains is close. A supplementary mains supply also makes solar so much more reliable and cheaper.

How long will a extension lead back to the nearest mains plug need to be?

The reason for this would be to limit the amps going through the pwm cc. By limiting the amps Renogy reduces the failure rate of CCs In renogy's case you can parallel as many kits as you like with each set of panels having its own pwm cc. Or you can add more panels by pointing them so that they...

Why?

Yes. PV panels and heating element, suitably matched,with only the cable between the two is the way to go. I think marketing is beginning to intrude with sellers pushing their products under the 'mppt' mantra.

Direct wires from the pv to element. They are completely separate from the main system. The panels have been split in half electrically to use the 12v elements. Unmodified panels with a Voc of 36 - 40 will need a 24v element.

12v DC (Denord) Direct to pv. Photos of the original somewhere in the other thread https://diysolarforum.com/threads/dc-water-heater-element.11699/page-2 A cable from the pv(20Voc) to the inverter 12v battery side is a after thought as a supplimentary power source if the other sources fail/...

Thats with the 4 panels. There is 6 now and the v at the elements is 12v. These things get hot! i will make sure over the next few days that the alternative connection to the inverter keeps under the 15v before connecting.

From https://diysolarforum.com/threads/dc-water-heater-element.11699/page-2 Readings at 10am: PV end of cable 39.7amps 11.57volts At element 9.13v ....362w output of element This was from 4 panels/element. I ended up with 6 to get the 12v at the single 600w element. The poly housing used for...

Now that I've added another 600w 12v element and another set of 6 180w panels to the east we seem to be running in unison except at 12v rather than 24v. What may be of interest is I've run a cable from the PV to another set of 12v led lights on my fishtank. These come on at sunrise and go off...

Fuses, if required, after the busbar. In op's case a fuse at the pv and another at the busbar if the wire goes through the RV's frame since the flow can be both ways if there is a fault. Before adding fuses identify what you are trying to protect and whether a fuse gives that protection? You...

Theoretically no. However busbars do make it easier when they have multiple connection points for different input/outputs. Without a busbar connect the extra CC to the same connection to the battery as the other CC. If you add a busbar there is no need for a fuse between the busbar and the battery.